Viper 4105v, Flashlogic FLCAN, 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=146644
Printed Date: May 13, 2025 at 12:11 AM
Topic: Viper 4105v, Flashlogic FLCAN, 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Posted By: kylemack621
Subject: Viper 4105v, Flashlogic FLCAN, 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Date Posted: January 01, 2021 at 10:59 AM
Can anyone give me insight into this setup. I got the setup as a Christmas gift from my wife. It also includes a 8617 relay. This is my first attempt at a remote start. I’ve tried doing some research but I’m still kinda stumped on where to start exactly and show the remote start and bypass tie into each other. I am both mechanically and electronically competent. Just not on GM vehicles, more so aircraft. I have the wiring diagrams for both units and a wiring list for my truck. Any insight or help to get started would greatly be appreciated.
------------- Kyle D Mack
Replies:
Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: January 01, 2021 at 12:16 PM
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133000 for a pictorial. The FLCAN has multiple ways of interfacing with the remote start module. Do you know if the FLCAN was 'flashed'? That will determine its wiring requirements.
Posted By: kylemack621
Date Posted: January 01, 2021 at 12:40 PM
How would I know if it’s flashed? It was bought from crutchfield. I looked at that thread. Still having trouble wrapping my head around some of it. For example the hardwire vs data mode. How are the wires from the bypass to the remote start connecting? Depinning those were and soldering them together? Things like that.... I’m just trying to make sense of it all and find a solid place to start from.
------------- Kyle D Mack
Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: January 01, 2021 at 12:58 PM
May have to contact Crutchfield, ask if they flash them...maybe shows on the receipt. If flashed as hardwire, physical connections between the remote start and bypass need to be performed. if flashed as data, there's an interconnecting cable between the two modules, less connections between the two. Connections between the two modules can be done by soldering yes...or even crimp connectors/crimp caps.
Posted By: kylemack621
Date Posted: January 14, 2021 at 7:32 AM
Ok I got this all wired up thanks to kreg357, and it works like a champ, but now I’ve noticed some type of battery draw while the truck is off. If it sits for more that 24 hrs I have to jump it off. Are there any common occurrences with remote start systems and this issue?
------------- Kyle D Mack
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: January 14, 2021 at 8:39 AM
I'm curious, do you have anything connected to the ground-while-armed wire?
------------- My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: kylemack621
Date Posted: January 14, 2021 at 8:56 AM
I do not. I was instructed that the FLCAN would handle this function. I have the black wire from the 9pin harness and the black/white wire from the 5 pin harness of the viper connected to ground.
------------- Kyle D Mack
Posted By: catback
Date Posted: January 14, 2021 at 10:53 AM
Pull the fuse(s) for the Viper/FLCAN for 24 hours and see if your need to jump it go away. That or use an amp meter to find out how much amps it's pulling at rest.
Posted By: lectricguy
Date Posted: January 14, 2021 at 11:51 AM
Out of curiosity, did you add a relay to power the second accessory wire? If so, how did you wire the relay?
------------- Lectric Guy
Posted By: kylemack621
Date Posted: January 14, 2021 at 12:53 PM
I did install the second relay. Below is how everything was wired up per a fellow user on here:
Viper 4105
Main 9 Pin
1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM *
2 GREEN/WHITE FACTORY REARM *
3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) *
4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT *
5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED *
6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT BLACK/YELLOW to BLACK (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT *
8 BLACK GROUND Chassis Ground ( with Black/White Neutral Safety )
9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH set to (-) GRAY/BLACK (-) @ BCM, BROWN PLUG, PIN B2
R/S 5 Pin
1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT Chassis Ground if Auto Trans
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE *
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE WHITE (+) @ BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH
4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE to kit supplied hood pin switch
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG *
4-pin satellite harness diagram
1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT *
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT --> relay Pin 85 of ACC2 relay
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT *
4 PINK (-) IGNITION OUTPUT *
ACC2 relay
Pin 85 to ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Pin 30 to Brown ACC2 wire at ignition switch harness
Pin 86 and 87 to Red +12V constant
Pin 87a not used - insulate
Heavy gauge 6 Pin
1 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT Red +12V constant
2 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE set to IGN White at main ignition switch harness
3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT Red/White +12V constant
4 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY Orange at main ignition switch harness
5 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER Yellow at main ignition switch harness
6 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION Pink at main ignition switch harness
Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT *
2 EMPTY NOT USED *
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT *
* = not used or handled by FLCAN and D2D harness
D2D port to FLCAN DATA port
FLCAN wires
DATA port to 4105 D2D port
Orange wire to truck OBD2 Violet at Pin 2
Pink to 4105 thick Pink IGN1 ( which goes to truck Pink IGN1 )
------------- Kyle D Mack
Posted By: lectricguy
Date Posted: January 14, 2021 at 5:29 PM
Looks correct. Make sure the connections (and the relay pins) are insulated and not rubbing against any metal. Then I would follow Catback's advice.
------------- Lectric Guy
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