How To Determine If I Can Use CM7000 Low Current Wiring Harness?

I'm looking to install a CM7000 (among other add-ons *Cruise Control and Autolights*) into a 2017 Ford Transit 350 (No PATS) and was wondering how I would distinguish if I can use the thinner "low current" connector (cn3) or if I have to use the Regular/"High Current" CN1, or if I'd have to get the low current CN1 (FT-LC1, I think it was called; What's the difference between the LC1 and CN3?). all the wires under the dash going to the BCM and up the column are all really thin, a lot thinner than my 99 F150 or 05 Superduty were, going by that I'd assume I could use the Low-current setup but don't know for sure, and don't know how'd I'd test to verify for this.

I was hoping to try and start on this today or tomorrow so if anyone has input for me I'd appreciate it!!

One way to tell is to check the vehicles current rating on the +12V constant wire in the ignition switch harness connector. In the case of the 2017 Transit, it is a Blue/Red wire rated at 15 Amps. Now take a look at the fuse on the +12V constant input lead CN3 Pin 2. It is 3 Amps. Definitely not a good match. On that Transit, you have (+) Parking Light circuits and the CM7000 has a siren instead of a low current (-) Horn. I'd use the CN1 high current harness for that vehicle. Get your (+) 12V constant power from this wire at the SJB :

12 Volts     Yellow/Red (60A)     +     BCM-Dash Fuse Box, black 2 pin plug (A), pin 1

You can gauge down the ignition wires to 18 gauge and run those thinner wires to the Transits ignition wires for an easier connection.

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Soldering is fun!

low current cars are usually not always but 95% Push to start..