2005 Jeep Wrangler X, Avital Remote Start Issue

Hello all two questions I have a one button avital remote start installed and one out of every 10 tries it will actually start the rest of the time it flashes the parking lights 5 times indicating brake shutdown I’ve double checked the brake wire and it’s showing 0 when pedal up 12 when the pedals depressed. I’ve even disconnected the brake wire all together from the avital with no luck.
What could possibly cause this? Next I have a int-sl+ I went through wired it did the learn procedure it went off with out a problem but it’s not letting the truck start with out the key in the ignition. Can any one shed light on this?

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I do have the gray key on my jeep forgot to mention that.

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A couple of thoughts...

Double check your Avital Chassis Ground wire connection. It should be a soldered-on terminal ring to a clean paint and rust free solid frame metal. Depending on the Avital model 5 Blinks could mean Hood Pin. The hood pin should only see ground when the hood is open.

The INT-SL+ only does the bypass function for your jeep. Additionally, it cant go D2D so it must be connected W2W. The only wires that need to be connected are Red and Black on the 4 Pin connector and the Pink, Blue and Purple on the 14 Pin plug. I'm thinking that the Blue wire is not connected to the Blue (-) Status Output on the Avital.

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I do not have the hood pin wire connected at all and that clears up the issue with the bypass I’m trying to use it in d2d with the yellow / yellow black and pink wires the 4 pin with the power and ground connected to the avital. So I should cut the plug and wire power and ground direct avoiding the avital ?

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Yes, follow the "Plan 2 Without Datalink" wiring diagram for that 4 Pin plug and make those 3 hardwired connections on the 14 Pin plug. I usually run the Red and Black to the R/S unit and tag off of it's wires.

Strange with the shutdown / 5 Blink issue. I've heard of bad Brake light bulbs causing issues but not when the Brake wire is disconnected. Check that R/S connector and its' pins.

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I will try that. I used plan 6 with out datalink as that’s what fortin said I should but I will try plan 2. I’m absolutely using the right wire brown from the 5pin is the brake shutdown. Before I got into the wiring some one has already been in there looks like a r/s was removed there is a purple wire maybe 18awg that was stripped back that I can’t see a reason to be stripped it def had a wire tapped into it I can see the evidence but I can’t see what would have went to it I pulled the whole hint back out and I’m going back through the wiring once again to see if I can find anything I missed but like I said when it does let the truck start it starts fine. Then the next ten tries it does 5 flashes abs when I use diagnostic mode that shows 4 blinks with it transmitter shutdown I’m baffled this is the second unit I’ve tried thinking the first was faulty but it does the exact same thing

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Which model Avital? 4105?

Very strange that it happens with the Avital Brown wire disconnected. Even stranger that this is the second Avital unit with the same issue.

Are you using the White/Tan Brake wire at the brake pedal switch?

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The purple wire I mentioned above does not come from the skim I thought about using a new bypass that has the green plug for data but my jeep do not have the purple wire at the skim so I ruled that out. I’m going out to completely remove the bypass then attempt again to remote start the truck see if the issue goes away just the r/s with the key in the ign should let me confirm or continue diagnosing the r/s

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It is the 4105 single button and yes I am using the white/tan at the brake switch. It’s blowing my mind I’ve done plenty of installs now with out issue. I even checked for trailer wiring maybe feeding something back but there is none. I also tried pulling the fuse on the parking light wire thinking maybe confirmation flash is tripping the brake wire signal but that didn’t matter either.

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So I’ve torn everything out rewired it. Same thing starts once then 5 flashes the next 10/20 tries. But before that the purple wire is actually purple/tan key sense wire Should that be connected to a wire from the int-sl+ ? I’ve double checked ground when a weak or no ground is present the unit clicks then the led on both avital and bypass go out then light back up then it’s 5 flashes on the next attempt

Here’s what I have wired

Heavy
Both red from avital to red 12awg from jeep
Pink/white not used
Orange to pink/yellow 14awg (has 3 total I used the middle size wire) 16/12awg unused but I’ve tried them for fun no change
Purple to pink/orange
Pink to pink / lt green

5pin
Black/white to chassis ground
Brown to white/tan at brake switch
Violet / white not used
Gray not used
Blue/white not used

9 pin
Black to chassis ground
White to parking light white yellow in same harness as ignition which is how I know it’s brake shutdown they flash 5 times so that’s fine
Nothing else is used

4 pin satellite
Blue to blue on bypass 14pin

Then cut the 4 pin from bypass only using black/red plugged into the avital leaving blue and white taped off.

I’m not even worried about the bypass at this moment no sense in worrying about that if I can’t get the remote start to work alone with the key in the ignition

When I first plugged the new unit in it worked fine remote started first try then I didn’t have the key in or bypass hooked up so it would attempt 3 times then shut off. That worked 2 times in a row then that was it right to flashing 5 times. Could I have damaged the avital some how? I was using the second pink/white ign/acc wire from the avital to the 12awg acc pink / yellow on the jeep just to rule out if I did need to have that wired in to resolve the issue. But again when it worked it worked fine but then wouldn’t work the next time. Why is it so random when it wants to work? This is killing me. If checked the brake shutdown wire for voltage when pressing the remote start to activate and it’s showing nothing until the pedal is depressed then I get 12.34v

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A few thoughts...

First, I would make sure the 4105 has the Parking Light jumper in and set to (+).
Next, I would move the 4105 White Parking Light Output wire to either the White/Yellow wire at the Headlight switch or to that wire in the DKP.
Having the 4105 thick Pink/White connected to 16 gauge Pink/Yellow is good but make sure that the Viper is set to Menu 2, Feature 6 to Option 2 for ACC output.

Does the same fault still happen with the 4105 Brake Input wire disconnected?

You could wire up a relay like this :
Relay Pin 87 to +12V constant
Relay Pin 30 to 4105 Brown Brake Input
Relay Pin 86 to White/Tan Brake at brake pedal switch
Relay Pin 85 to Chassis Ground

This will isolate the brake signal going to the 4105.

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Soldering is fun!

Yes it still does the same thing with out the brake shutdown being connected. I have the polarity set to + for the park lights they work fine they flash 5 times telling me brake wire isn’t causing shutdown.

Could I just leave the pink/white wire from the avital unhooked? Seems though everything says it’s unneeded but illl try changing the wire onto the other and set the option accordingly.

Also I’ve tried pulling the fuse on the parking light wire thinking maybe that was sending voltage back through making the avital think it was a brake signal to shut down and that made no difference with out the fuse that wire is null so I didn’t remove it completely if that would have solved the issue then I would move it to the head light switch directly but it made no difference.

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I agree that using the Pink/White ACC2 wire is un-necessary. You can leave it disconnected.

Beats me why it is giving a Brake Shutdown when both the Brake and Parking Light wires are not connected. It should work without those two wires. During testing you can always do a shutdown with the remote or by touching the Brake Input wire to +12V or the Hood Pin Input to Chassis Ground. Got another 4105?

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This is the second one I’ve purchased both do the exact same thing. Here’s a thought though in the most basic form or the unit since I have a second one with new wiring can I bench test it in? If I hook up the red wires ground out the black and white black can take a volt meter I should be able to test the orange pink purple for voltage right? Just trying to see why it’s doing what it is i really doubt two units are bad it has to be an issue with the oe jeep wiring. Am I correct? The r/s energizes the ign and acc wires has nothing to do with the jeep energizing them? In reality I shouldn’t need anything more then to power and ground the unit with the antenna connected obviously to see if it will then send start voltage up the purple wire or if it sends 5 short voltage burst up the white to flash the parking lights five times. Would be a pain with only one bolt meter but I have a test light I can use as parking lights. If I need any other wires let me know I’ll attempt that in the morning.

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So I hooked no to units up to a battery just using the red wires black and black white with a test light on the white wire. Still get 5 flashes on 3 units now 2 4x05 and a 4x03 I’m clearly doing something wrong. But every wire is where it should be with exception of the gray im not using yet and brown I haven’t hooked back up.

When I do hook brown up it doesn’t even interrupt the 5 flashes when I press it it’s like it’s dead I’ve tried two differed 9 pin plugs 2 different 5 pin plugs to rule up the harness same issue.

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So I’ve officially given up I can’t sort this thing out it starts one out of 6 tries. And the bypass said it’s program was successful had a rapid flashing led on it but when it does remote start the Jeep shuts back off for no key three avitals and even hooking up to a battery alone they all flash 5 times then eventually start then repeat

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I wonder if previous underdash work might have something to do with problems you are having. If your Jeep has the gray key and SKIM, it should never start and run without a key in the cylinder.

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That’s what I’m thinking. There’s a reason the previous owner ripped out the r/s that they had. Abs why they tapped the key sense wire I’m still no sure of. The 16/12awg pink/yellow accessory wires get 12v in the acc position with the key. However the 14awg pink/yellow only gets 12v in the run position. There’s absolutely something going on with it. The bypass took the key program just fine yet doesn’t allow the Jeep to start if it can capture the key it should be able to send the key signal back up to allow it to start with out the key in the ign. I may drop it off at another installer see if they have better luck on the 5th or 6th try to start it will start right up then it’s 5 flashes again. I’ve ripped the wiring apart 6 times now I can’t find the issue.

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