Compustar CM7200 Remote Starter, 2015 Subaru XV Crosstrek

New to forum. Installing Compustar cm7200 remote starter with Blade Al in a 2015 subaru xv crosstrek with PTS. Wiring the blade al according to instructions,wiring the low current according to instructions,and wiring the remote brake,hood,and tach wires. Will the KLON in the cm7200 mimic the fob to allow 2-way remote to start the car and will lock/unlock work? Thanks for any info.

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petexv

Here is a link to the Blade-AL w/AL(DL)-SUB2 firmware : https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-SUB2/BLADE-AL(DL)-SUB2-EN_20201009.pdf

Referring to the chart on Page 2, it will handle the transponder immobilizer and will allow the CM7200 remotes to operate the cars locks. The Blade-AL will supply the Brake and Tach signals. The Hood Pin would need to be hardwired. Additionally, the factory remotes will continue to function while the car is remote started.

Remember that the Type 1 wiring diagram does not show the needed CM7200 power and chassis ground connections.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you Kreg357.
But I flashed Blade-Al before installing in my car and followed steps 1-6. Disconnected RS form my car to finish extended programming and configure RS. Compustar says to make sure 2-15 is set to option 2 for PTS, but section 2 doesn´t have the option listed. So I tried installing RS in my car anyways and program my 2 way Compustar 2WT10R-SS remote transmitters, but a lock w/key is displayed on the bottom of instrument cluster. So I assumed I needed to connect more wires for the RS to work. I will try disconnecting the brake and tach wires and try flashing the Blade-Al again. I will follow the tach learning procedure and hopefully have better results.

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petexv

First question is...   Did the Blade-AL follow all the programming steps exactly as per the install guide? All the indicator lights were correct?

The Type 1 install diagram does not show all the connections. As mentioned above, the CM7200-s needs 12V constant and Chassis Ground. The Blade-AL will supply the Tach and Brake. It will control the door locks, factory alarm and parking lights via its connection to the cars CAN Bus. If you wanted the CM7200-s to have a horn output, that would require a hardwire connection.

I do not see where the install guide mentions that the Compustar CM7200-s needs to have 2-15 set to option 2 for a PTS vehicle. There is a Compustar CM7200-s Option 2-15 but that is for Manual Transmission Reservation Mode entry.

Were you able to pair the remotes to the CM7200-s?

What Compustar wires are you connecting to the vehicles ignition wires? From CN-1 or CN-3? The IGN1 and IGN2 connections must come from two separate isolated sources.



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Soldering is fun!

Blade-Al showed all indicating lights throughout the procedures.

CN3 Low current connections as follows:
Accessory-white to blue pin 4(C:B574)
12V Constant-red to lt. blue pin 9(A:B572)
Starter-yellow to pink pin 7(A:B572)
Ignition-green to purple pin 6(C:B574)
Ground-black and Blade-Al blue/red to chassis ground
I do not want the horn connected,so I did not connect it.

Remote programming procedure:PTS(Push to Start vehicles) application is in the middle of page 6 of the CM7200 master guide.

No I cannot seem to pair remotes to CM7200


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petexv

Well this is where we have some issues.

For the install, the Blade-AL Type 1 Install diagram calls for several ignition connections.
Specifically it lists :
Ignition 1 as (+)
Ignition 2 as (+)
Accessory as (+)
Starter as (+)

Unfortunately CN3 does not give us all those outputs. It can not supply the needed Ignition 2 (+) output. As per your listed wire connections, you have the CM7200-s CN3 Red +12V constant input wire going to the cars Ignition 2 wire.

Here is the way I would handle this issue. Use the CN1 plug instead of the CN3 plug. Cut the thick ignition wires at about 4 inches and
solder on 18 gauge wires of similar color. This way we have :
Ignition 1 = Green
Ignition 2 = Blue
Accessory = White
Starter = Yellow
+12 Constant = Red & Red/White   These two wires can be joined together and the single wire fused down to 15 Amps. Connect this wire to : Constant 12 volts   WHITE (40A)   @ RELAY HOLDER TO THE RIGHT OF THE DASH FUSE BOX WHITE 20 PIN CONN, PIN 8

Before we actually put the system back in the car we should pair the remotes. All we need is power and ground to the CM7200-s and the antenna harness/antenna plugged in. Briefly touch the Green IGN1 wire to +12V four times and leave it connected to +12V the 5th time. I use an alligator clip to do this part. The internal Parking Light relay will click. Press the Lock button on both remotes as per the programming instructions.

Now we can follow the Type 1 diagram and make the indicated connections to the car. I would do a Factory Reset on the Blade-AL and start programming from Step 1 again.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg357

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petexv

So to give an update.
I tried pairing remotes to CM7200 per Kreg357 and I didn´t hear any clicks. So I tried pairing again and the same results.
So I proceeded to wire CN1 High current harness per Kreg357.
I had to call Idatalink to do an activity reset on Blade-AL. After this I factory reset Blade AL by removing blade, pressing and holding programming button while reconnecting until the LED light flashed red, I released and the LED was steady red for few seconds.
I proceeded to flash Blade-AL. Once I started to flash the blade, a window popped up and said if you have 3 red LED flashes something about CAN Bus. I did not notice any red LED flashes, just blue LED while blade was flashing. When it was done flashing, I minimized the window. Part 1 KLON completed.
Installed in my car followed steps 1-6, LED turning colors per instructions. Removed and continued to flash Part 2 KLON.
Reinstalled in the vehicle and followed steps 8-13.
So I tried the remotes and as soon as I pushed the lock button, the parking lights blinked twice. I still get the lock with key on the bottom of instrument cluster.
So I was concerned about the message that popped up while I was flashing the Blade-AL Part 1.
I checked my CAN wires.
CANH(Brown/Red) connection to White wire pin 14 on 30 pin white connector C:B574
CANL(Brown/Yellow) connection to Lt.Blue wire pin 15 on 30 pin white connector C:B574
The Blade guide says this should be Blue. But Direct Wire has CANL 2 as Lt.Blue the way I have it connected. There is a Blue wire on this connector, but not pin 15. So I´m not sure if this is my problem or not.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.



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petexv

One of the ways I double check the CAN wires on any install is to remove enough wrap on the plugs' harness to see if the CAN wires do the "twister pair" routine. The CAN wires are grouped together and will start an obvious pair twist as they go up the harness run. Fortin has a photo of this plug and the CAN wires location agrees with iDatalinks'. The CAN Low wire does look Light Blue. IDatalink is typically extremely accurate with their info.   Colors can fade/change but pin locations will remain the same.

It would appear that you have the CAN wires connected correctly. I think that pop-up during Blade-AL flash was just a basic installer warning and not that there was something wrong.

I'm not sure where you are at this point. Did you get the remotes paired with the CM7200-s? Do the Lock and Unlock buttons function and operate the cars locks and alarm? I'm guessing that the "Lock with Key" on the cluster is when you try a remote start. Did every step of the vehicle programming procedure follow the Steps in the guide? Being as you have the ADS USB cable, did you set the CM7200-s for TACH Mode? Did you do a Tach Learn? Did you cut the CM7200-s Auto Trans Green/White Loop?

I would also double check the wire connections on the IMMO. Data wire. The Blade-AL White/Red and Orange/Black must go to the connector side of that cut wire. Blade-AL White/Black is alone on the vehicle or away side. I recently did an on-site assist for an install gone bad and found that T-Taps were the issue. Really important to get good electrical connections on these Data type wires.

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Soldering is fun!

The ¨lock with key¨ is when I attempt a remote start.
When I´m programming or flashing the Blade-AL, the LED flashes or is steady the proper color throughout the procedure.

I tried pairing the remotes the way you suggested by touching the Green high current wire to 12V four times and connecting it on the fifth time with the ground connected to the chassis throughout. But I didn´t here any click or anything to indicate they were paired.

The Immo Data wires are connected as you mentioned and all my connections are soldered and taped.

I didn´t do tachless because I left the CN5 connector with the brake, tach, and hood pins connected. I have the Yellow/Black tach wire connected to the pin 17 which is Green on A:B572 18 White connector. I guess that will be my next step. Try removing the brake and tach wires and try tach learn.

When I flash the Blade-AL Part 1 KLON, do I need to flash the remote starter too or will the Blade-Al take care of this?

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petexv

The remotes do not operate lock or unlock. They are not pairing with CM7200.


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petexv

Well, we should be able to get the remotes to pair with the CM7200-s controller. Like I said, I do it on the bench, prior to system install. All the CM7200-s needs is +12V applied to the two +12V fused input wires on CN1. These are thick Red and Red/White wires. The Black wire on CN1 needs Chassis Ground. I use a +12V power supply from an old laptop that outputs +12V DC at 1.5 Amps. You could use the cars battery to supply the +12V DC and Chassis Ground. The antenna harness needs to be plugged into the correct Blue port and the antenna plugged in to the other end of the harness. Next the thick Green IGN1 wire needs to be briefly touched to +12V 4 times and the 5th time remain connected to +12V. This has to happen within 7 seconds. When done successfully you will hear a relay click inside of the CM7200-s. Quickly press Lock on each remote. You will hear the CM7200-s internal relay click each time. After a few seconds the Relay will click again signaling the end of the remote pairing sequence. At this point you can remove +12V from the Green IGN1 wire. As a test, you can now press the Lock or Unlock button on the remotes and hear the internal relay click once or twice.

I have created a video of this process but it is almost 40 meg and I can't upload it. Think there is a 5 meg limit. You can PM me if you want me to send it to you.

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Soldering is fun!

When you connect the CM7200-s to the ADS USB cable and fire-up the Compustar WEB site and login to Flash, the program should recognize the CM7200-s and the Blade-AL cartridge. If the CM7200-s firmware was out of date you would be prompted by the program to Update that firmware. The current Version is 3.65. There should be two boxes, one for Blade-AL bypass module and one for the CM7200-s. We really don't have to worry too much about the CM7200-s and it's firmware, just be aware that you can click on the CM7200-s box "Configure my Starter" and change the programmable options, if needed. This is easier than making the changes via the remotes.   The Blade-AL and its' firmware are the important thing. You select the firmware by selecting the car and then flash the firmware on to the Blade-AL cartridge. For your car it's BLADE-AL(DL)-SUB2. This only has to be done once.

So, sequentially, we connect the CM7200-s to the ADS USB cable and check to see if the CM7200-s needs an update to its' firmware then we flash the Blade-AL with the BLADE-AL(DL)-SUB2 firmware. At this point we can make changes to the options of the Blade-AL bypass module if needed, like Unlock all doors with the first pulse, etc. Next we disconnect the CM7200-s w/Blade from the ADS USB cable and plug in the necessary harnesses and connect everything to the car. I do this hot and just pull the CM7200-s fuses. Once everything is all connected, I insert the fuses and start the Blade-AL to vehicle programming process. In the case of your car it's a multi-part process due to KLON.   The first 6 steps allow the Blade-AL to capture the transponder data and verify the CAN connection. Step 7 uploads this transponder info, this data gets massaged and downloaded back to the Blade-AL cartridge in a format that it uses during a R/S to fool the car. The last programming steps verify the downloaded info. At this point the CM7200-s remote should work and control the locks. If the Subie does not have "one touch" starting, I would run in Tach Mode. With Tach Mode you must do the Tach Learn process before you try a remote start.

So as far as connections to the car...

Follow the Blade-AL Type 1 diagram for all the Blade 20 Pin connections. One wire goes to Chassis Ground so you can just tie that in to the CN1 Black wire that also goes to Chassis Ground. Two Blade wires get joined together and then on to the cut IMMO DATA wire. Another Blade wire gets tied into the CM7200-s Green IGN1 wire which goes to the ECU plug C pin 6.
The CM7200-s only has a few wire connections as follows :
CN1-8 Black to Chassis Ground along with the Blade Blue/Red wire.
CN1-7 Green to ECU Plug C, Pin 6 along with Blade Pink wire.
CN1-6 Yellow to ECU Plug A, Pin 7
CN1-5 Blue to ECU Plug A, Pin 9
CN1-4 White to ECU Plug C, Pin 4
CN1-3 Red/White to CN1-1 Red
CN1-2 Green/White - not used
CN1-1 Red fuse to 15 Amps connect to WHITE (40A)   @ RELAY HOLDER TO THE RIGHT OF THE DASH FUSE BOX WHITE 20 PIN CONN, PIN 8

CN3 in not used at all.
CN4 is the Blade connector - follow the Type 1 diagram
CN5-16 Gray/Black to kit supplied Hood Pin

That's it except for the antenna and either CN9 or CN10.

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Soldering is fun!

When I try to pair remotes according to your instructions, the Blade-AL blinks Red each time I touch the Green wire to 12V and stays on with the 5th clamp to 12V. The CM7200 clicks once and as soon as I touch the lock on the first remote, the CM7200 clicks twice indicating that it is exiting the procedure. So I tried this a few more times disconnecting the power in between each try and received the same results. I did try one remote after pairing it to see if it lock the door,but it didn´t work.

I have all the wires for CN1 connected as you describe.
The Blade-AL CN4 wires as described in Type 1 diagram. I have checked these several times
CN5 wired 16 Gray/Black to Yellow/Black Factory Remote Hood pin. I checked this wire to be sure it is grounding with hood open.
The CM7200 Green wire is cut and all jumpers are set as default settings.

I feel like the only option left is to try a new CM7200


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petexv

Are these 6 pin blue antenna harness connectors or the 4 pin harness?

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Soldering is fun!

The antenna is a Compustar ANT-2WSS 2way communication which is 4 pin connector.

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petexv

Just thought I would give an update.

I ordered a new CM7200 and paired my remotes(Compustar 2WT10R-SS) to it with no problem before installation. Everything worked the way kreg357 suggested.

Reflashed Blade Al according to instructions and everything worked fine.
Car has been starting for several weeks with no problems.

Thanks kreg357 for all your help.

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petexv

Thanks for the update. I have heard of the CM7x00 units getting damaged and having issues with remotes if both style antenna connectors ( 4 and 6 pin ) are both plugged in. This didn't happen in your case so it was the rare defective Compustar controller.

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Soldering is fun!