iDatalink ALCA, Programming Issue, 2003 GMC Yukon Denali

Hello All!

Hope someone can shed some light. I have a 2003 GMC Yukon XL Denali 6.2 awd. I have a Viper 5706 installed and working. Now to the problem..

I tore out the old remote start and replaced with Viper 5706 and used the old OMEGA GM bypass module. Long story short, that bypass reset and wouldn't let me pick the right option without reprogramming it and its outdated. Everything would work except the door locks etc.. Occasional passlock lockout as well which would cause me to have to reprogram key. I never have a passlock issue if the RS was used first. So my solution was buy the idatalink ALCA. So i hooked everything up for both HW and Data. Flashed the module with recommended ADS-DLSL GM1. Plug everything in, set the module to data mode, light turns green and then goes off. That's the last time I see a light. I've tried everything to program the vehicle and have yet to see a green light. I have also tried resetting and trying hardwire mode and it does the exact same thing. Directions state that I should select the mode, turns solid green for confirm. I should then turn the truck on and it show a green light to confirm vehicle programming. Still no lock, unlock etc.. I've tried everything and feel like it is something very stupid and possibly overlooking something.

Any help or guidance at this point would be greatly appreciated.

Not sure if it's a typo of oversight but the correct firmware is DBI-AL(DL)-GM1. This firmware would allow DBI D2D communications between the Viper and the ADS AL-CA module.

With the DBI flavor of firmware, perform a module Factory Reset first, then set the Installation Mode to Data - one-blink, lock it in and then do the vehicle programming.

Going in D2D mode, the only connections that you have to make are the 2 solid Black lines. All the red dashed lines are made for you via the D2D harness.

Here is a link to the install guide : https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-GM1/DBI-AL(DL)-GM1-EN_20201119.pdf   See the Type 3 wiring diagram.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the input. Sorry that was a typo. So I double checked and I did not have the DBI version of the software. I had ADS-DLSL GM1. I reflashed with DBI-AL(DL)GM1.

I have everything hooked up correctly, I've double checked. I long hold on single blink for data mode. Light turns solid green for 2 seconds. BUT.. I cannot get it to program to the vehicle. I've tried everything. The last time I see any light is after data selection and that's it. In theory it says I should see a solid green light after car starts to show it programmed correctly.

Any advice at this point would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

The only thing the ADS AL-CA needs to program to the vehicle is the ODB2 Violet wire connection and the the vehicle Ignition wire (besides power and ground). I usually run the the Viper thick Pink IGN1 wire to the vehicle's Pink IGN wire and then tap the ADS-AL-CA thin Pink IGN wire into the Vipers thick pink IGN1 wire near the Viper. Double check your OBD2 Violet J1850 wire connection. This one should be properly soldered.

As a side note, the ADS AL-CA w/GM1 firmware has been known to drop the Tach output. On those installs I hardwire the Tach wire at the back of the instrument cluster instead of using the signal from the bypass module.

During vehicle programming, are you turning to START and holding until the LED goes green for 2 seconds? Think those trucks have built in anti-grind so holding the key in START isn't a problem.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I have everything wired that's required. I'm soldered into data on OBD. Still nothing from the module.. no light. I double checked all connections, held on one blink to program it to data mode. Stays green for 2 seconds then goes off. Then I attempt to program to the truck, even held into the start position for 30+ seconds and I'm getting no lights from the module. Is it possible the module is a dud? I'm a pretty tech savvy guy, but this is just frustrating at this point. There really is no reason why it wouldn't program to the truck.

Thanks for the help by the way

Did you try the Factory Reset procedure, followed by the Mode Selection and then the vehicle programming all in a row?

Put a meter on the ADS AL-CA Pink IGN Input wire to see if it gets +12V when the key gets turned on during programming. That is the signal it looks for to start watching for the Passlock2 info.

Got a spare ADS AL-CA to try? Think I've only had one that was an O.B.F. over the years but it is possible. ( out of box failure )

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I do not have a spare module.
I put a meter on the pink IGN wire and it's 0 the entire time. So I'm guessing that is the problem. Any ideas at this point?

Thanks again for all this help

The ADS AL-CA Pink Ignition input wire must see +12V to allow successful programming. The ADS AL-CA Pink Ignition input wire should be connected to the trucks Pink IGN1 wire. As mentioned above, I run the Vipers' thick Pink IGN1 wire to the vehicles thick Pink IGN1 wire and then I connect the ADS AL-CA Pink Ignition input wire to the Vipers thick Pink IGN1 wire.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

That was the problem. It programmed and working. Couple small problems now. Rpm needle is jittering up and down while the truck is running. Remote start works, fires up for about 2 seconds and then dies. Almost exactly like passlock is triggered. I'm sure I can figure those problems out, but any guidance there would also be appreciated.

Thanks so much man for helping me out with this. Been totally wracking my brain.

Any Passlock2 or Security type light on in the instrument cluster during a R/S? The properly programmed ADS AL-CA is supposed to bypass the Passlock2.

Did you connect the Viper Tach wire to the White instrument cluster tach wire? Only necessary if you want to run in Tach Mode. If running in Tach Mode, did you do a Tach Learn?

If that truck has "one touch starting" where you can quickly turn the key to START & release it back to RUN and the engine continues to crank until started, you can run with Engine Checking = Fixed rather than Tach or Virtual Tach Mode.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

No passlock light on after r/s.
I do have the tach hardwired to the cluster. I did not attempt a tach learning. I'll have to dig into that more today.

You might have to set the Viper to Engine Checking = Tach manually before the Tach Learn.

There is a Pictorial on your truck that shows all the necessary ignition harness connections. Here is a link : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133000

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Now I'm in deep and lost again. Just created myself a big problem. So after getting everything programmed and wired up everything was working perfect. During the buttoning up process. I clipped the pink IGN wire and crimped it back together with the small pink wire attached. Soldered it and heat shrink.

Well as I was tucking everything up, the brain itself started making a chime noise. So I stopped and thought it might have been the key. Wasn't the key. So I test it again and the thing went nuts. Module started flashing green and red lights. My key fob was also going nuts. Unlocking and locking, saying trunk was open, would attempt to start, etc. So I unplug everything. Nothing would work after that. Zero key fob function and would signal error out. So I left the brain unplugged from the car overnight.

So today I plug everything back in. Things seem back to normal, but still not working. Key fob is now sending and receiving to the brain. Double checked all connections. All should be good. Car starts with the key, but does not start anymore with RS. When I attempt, I hear the normal click, but no crank. Instead it just keeps clicking. My dash lights go on, then off, on, then off. No error codes on the fob. Module now showing solid red light with key start and attempt to RS. Tried to reprogram the module, also giving me solid red light with key on or car started.

It's difficult to troubleshoot those type symptoms from a distance. My best guess would be a poor Chassis Ground connection or an improperly inserted R/S harness or vehicle connector. This assumes that all vehicle connections are nicely soldered and insulated. Simply adjusting the R/S units position / re-arranging wire runs should be possible with no ill effects. I have had a time or two where a pin in a connector wasn't secure and backed out a bit causing an intermittent problem but that is pretty rare.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Replaced brain, rewired everything and all working like a charm!