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Ultra Start UT1150 Lights Not Flashing, 2004 Ford F-150

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=146893
Printed Date: May 01, 2024 at 8:24 PM


Topic: Ultra Start UT1150 Lights Not Flashing, 2004 Ford F-150

Posted By: frzrbrnt
Subject: Ultra Start UT1150 Lights Not Flashing, 2004 Ford F-150
Date Posted: June 17, 2021 at 6:24 PM

Hi everyone I have a 04 f150 truck that has the ut1250 in it that's worked fine for about three years, about three weeks ago when I go to lock/unlock or auto start the lights don't flash at all and when i auto start andI'm in the truck the dash lights don't come on any longer either, I can here the clicking it does when the lights used to flash but no flashing, the functions work fine it still auto starts and locks and unlocks , just wondering if anyone can help. I've tried reaching out to ultra start themselves but they still haven't replied . Just not sure what to do so any help is appreciated. Oh I have no electrical experience at all . Semper Fi



Replies:

Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: June 17, 2021 at 7:31 PM
You'll need to locate the module, it's about 4" x 3" x 1.25" Black plastic, wiring/connectors along long side of module.
I believe the white wire on the 'long' connector is the parking light wire. Should have a fuse holder inline, check that fuse.
Also have seen the terminal for the parking light wire overheat in the connector housing. Overheated terminal adds resistance, lights won't operate. The housing would typically show signs of heat...discolored, deformed. And have also seen the relays themselves go bad.
Hope this helps
Mark




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 18, 2021 at 3:27 PM
Thank you for the fast reply, I looked under the dash and found the black box I guess that's the module you spoke of, none of the wires looked burned or deformed and neither did the box, I found 3 inline fuses 2 30 amp which had power and a 10 amp that didn't look blown but had no power coming from it I checked with the key in the ignition, checked with motor running, and checked it with no key at all. I'm not sure if I should change it or not. Something I forgot to mention is sometimes my daughter likes to auto start the truck she's younger and it makes her feel grown when I let her is there any way she possibly just pressed a bunch of buttons and maybe turned them off that way? Well thanks again . Semper Fi




Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: June 18, 2021 at 4:37 PM
The 10 amp fuse should be for the parking lights. Turn headlight switch on, then test.
I don't believe you can disable the parking light output by just the remote.




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 19, 2021 at 7:33 AM
Just tested the ten amp fuse and with the lights on like you suggested and you were right the fuse got power. Thanks for responding again and for your help. Any other ideas you can think of that might be the problem? Sorry if I'm being a bother I apologize. Have a great father's day weekend. Semper Fi




Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: June 19, 2021 at 9:56 AM
If the module clicks in response to the remote being operated, that's the parking light relay operating. Determining if the relay is bad or an open connection (burned up trace on circuit board) would require opening up the module.




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 19, 2021 at 4:11 PM
I will try doing that tomorrow, someone on you tube suggested that the relay inside the module prob died like you mentioned and it's a common problem and I should run a - neg out when running wire instead and add a relay inverter, prob is I have no idea what that means or how to do it it's way over my experience I thanked him and asked if he could dumb it down for me or if he knew of a tutorial just waiting on a reply. The only relays I'm familiar with are the ones in the fuse box. Guess I'll pop open the module and see what I find. I truly appreciate you taking time out your day to reply to my post and helping me out many thanks, Semper Fi




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 19, 2021 at 7:34 PM
Well I opened it up and the board looked fine no burns or anything Im not sure how to test the relays all I have is a lil circuit tester prn that lights when I ground it and hold it to a fuse a light comes on. I took some pictures I'm attempting to post while I was talking the module apart a couple connections came undone I attached them again but now my auto start don't work posted_image posted_image




Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: June 19, 2021 at 9:09 PM
https://storage.googleapis.com/production-websitebuilder-v1-0-3/673/235673/Gz69dVsx/6d9fa4ce9a7b4861a8c3eec44dcdc6de?fileName=MAN-12XX-INSTALL-U-2005.pdf installation manual
https://storage.googleapis.com/production-websitebuilder-v1-0-3/673/235673/Gz69dVsx/12067c8b8dd04197a17911356fc987e4?fileName=MAN-12XX-OWNERS-U-2005.pdf owners manual




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 20, 2021 at 8:30 AM
Thank you for this . Semper Fi




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 25, 2021 at 11:56 AM
Can I just replace the relay? Semper Fi




Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: June 25, 2021 at 6:36 PM
Sure the relay could be replaced.   Google searching numbers on relay didn't give positive results. At that point, one might assume the relay operates on 12 volts, but it could be less. This could be measured from the backside of the circuit board. Then it would need to be unsoldered from the circuit board carefully, holes cleaned of excess solder. The resistance of the coil would be measured. This along with the coil operating voltage and the pinout/product dimensions should give multiple choices for a replacement part. An electronics parts distributor such as Mouser or DigiKey would have a drop down menu for selecting various parameters. The part I'd bet is much less than $5, minus shipping. As for a cross reference, there may be. Then perhaps search elsewhere.




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 25, 2021 at 8:14 PM
Sounds like alot of work for someone with lil to no experience lol I was hoping they could just pop out and pop in. Guess I'll just go without lights and just listen for the doors to lock. I honestly want to thank you for all your patience with me, your help and replies. Hope you have a fantastic weekend. Semper Fi




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 26, 2021 at 10:54 AM
So I wanted to let you know that I finally heard back from ultrastart, I explained what was going on they had me check a couple things and diagnosed it as a bad output goin to the lights, said I could send it in to have it repaired going to call Monday and see how much they want if it's too much I'll prob just keep it as it is. Thanks again for your help Semper Fi




Posted By: frzrbrnt
Date Posted: June 28, 2021 at 7:31 PM
Hello been having problems with my headlights not turning on when I autostart/ unlock/lock doors ended up being a bad connection coming from the light output of the brain and my brown headlight wire whoever installed them didn't even put any electrical tape on it, anyhow I followed the white wire down to the harness and there is a small brown mark on the harness but while I was at it I took the brain apart to see if it had any damage to the board luckily there was none, while double testing the wire while pressing lock unlock nothing was happening but the clicking was still going on, I decided to put my tester on what reminds me of a two legged staple directly under the white wire on the board and to my surprise while clicking the remote it was flashing lights and clicking, so anyway I can fix this? Would it be safe to pull the white wire from the harness strip it some and attach it to the 'staple" on the board? posted_image i posted a pic so you can kinda see a basic idea of what I'm talking about thanks





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