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How To Wire Relay For Parking Lights? 2002 BMW X5

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=146938
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 1:28 AM


Topic: How To Wire Relay For Parking Lights? 2002 BMW X5

Posted By: bmwe39528i1998
Subject: How To Wire Relay For Parking Lights? 2002 BMW X5
Date Posted: July 18, 2021 at 1:31 AM

BMW X5 2002, 3.0l, automatic transmission.

I installed the remote and it is working. I guess my mistake was I didn't use a relay for the my parking lights. Well somewhere it said I'm supposed to use a relay for the door locks, but they work fine without it. I think it has damaged by light switch as my tail lights and cluster are on all the time, even without keys in ignition. I'm not sure if I shorted the switch by connecting the yellow wire from the remote module to the black wire going to the switch? Can someone help me how to properly use the relay? I found this diagram, it says for 5 and 7 series but probably X5 is the same.
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I understand about cutting the black wire going to the light switch and placing relay terminals 30 and 87a in between. I also understand that I have to connect the wire from the remote starter for the parking light to terminal 85. One thing I was wondering about is where do I take 12 volts for terminal 86? Does it have to come from one of the wires going to the switch or somewhere else?

My remote is Model CT-4311TW
https://www.prostartsystems.com/Products/RemoteStart/CT-4311TW.aspx



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 18, 2021 at 4:03 AM
Power for the relay can come from the same +12V Constant source you used for the two Red wires on the 6 Pin Main connector of the CT-4311 unit. Use the Black wire found at the Headlight Switch connector. It should have 7 wires with only one Black wire. Follow your relay diagram for the wiring and ensure that the CT-4311's Parking Light output jumper is set to (-). My guess is that you damaged something by doing a straight CT-4311 Parking Light output to the Black wire. Not sure if you feed it +12 Volts or a Chassis Ground but with your current problem ( tail light and cluster on all the time ) something is amiss.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: July 18, 2021 at 12:49 PM
Alternatively, I've connected on at the hazard switch on BMW's before. That way there's no need to interrupt the ribbon cable. I just used 2 relays like this to keep the left and right sides isolated: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram47.html I'm sure you could just use a couple 6 amp diodes instead, but I prefer relays.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: bmwe39528i1998
Date Posted: July 18, 2021 at 6:12 PM
So you're saying get 12 volts straight from the ignition switch instead of light switch. I did find a wire with 12v out of the 7 wires going to the light switch. But I can tap ignition wire instead. I also have 5th relay wire unused. Oh there's no ribbon cable. For the 12 volt output, how do you know if you need to set it up for -12v or +12v? I need to get some more switches before I can do anything else :( With burned out switches I doubt I can test anything




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 18, 2021 at 9:59 PM
"So you're saying get 12 volts straight from the ignition switch instead of light switch. I did find a wire with 12v out of the 7 wires going to the light switch. But I can tap ignition wire instead. I also have 5th relay wire unused."
Yes, the Relay Pin 86 needs +12V Constant. You can get it from the same place you got it for the R/S +12V Input wires or even directly from the battery.

"Oh there's no ribbon cable."
Yes, on your 2002 X5 it has 7 actual wires at the Parking Light switch.

"For the 12 volt output, how do you know if you need to set it up for -12v or +12v?"
If you are referring to the R/S's Parking Light Output, it has a selectable output set by a jumper. Depending on the vehicles needs ( in this case a Relay ) you set it as required. Some cars need a (+) and some need a (-) signal for Parking Light control. Your diagram has it noted as a (-) used for the Pin 85 coil input.

"I need to get some more switches before I can do anything else :( With burned out switches I doubt I can test anything"
Yes, get the vehicle back to normal, full working order before making the R/S's Parking Light connection.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: bmwe39528i1998
Date Posted: July 24, 2021 at 1:41 PM
My jumper was set to positive. I changed the light switch. After setting the jumper it to negative and adding the relay for the parking lights, the car starts and the lights and the dash don't stay on as before. So the issue is fixed.

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Unfortunately the lock and unlock button for the door and trunk stopped working. Do I have to wire a relay there as well?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 24, 2021 at 9:58 PM
What vehicle wires are you using for the Lock, Unlock and Trunk pop? Typically the basic R/S (-) output should work OK. If they were working before make sure all the R/S harnesses and securely plugged in. Are you soldering all your vehicle wire connections?

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: bmwe39528i1998
Date Posted: August 23, 2021 at 1:04 AM
Got so busy with life...didn't even work on X5 for a while!
It was my bad, both lock and unlock work, I just needed to press on them for a little longer and hold.

Now I'm thinking of somehow making the heated seats activate when the car starts.
Any ideas on how this could be done?





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