Compustar CS7900AS And Blade-Al Wiring Don’t Add Up

Hi everyone, I recently purchased the compustar remote and security unit which is listed above. It comes with the Blade Al module already programmed. Before I say anything else.....I installed 4 remote start units before, without problems but it never worked with the Blade-Al.

Anyways, once I went through the wiring diagrams I noticed something does not add up.

#1 Blade-Al wiring diagram says to connect the ACCESSORY(+) OUTPUT wire that goes out of the Remote Start unit (which should be white in color) to the PINK-ACCESSORY(+) INPUT wire from the Blade-Al and then to the PK3 ACC(+) wire on the PK3 Connector.    White to Pink to wire #2 on PK3.

#2 CM900 Wiring Diagram shows that the ACCESSORY(+) wire on CN1 is #4 on the plug and white in color.

#3 All wiring diagrams I've seen for my car (08 Cadillac CTS) say that the ACCESSORY wire I need to connect to is on the Ignition switch harness. Not the PK3 connector.

What am i getting wrong ? Thanks in advance





-------------
JB D.

This is one of those cars you don't want to over-think the install. While it could be more detailed, the note in the upper left gives you a clue.
NOTE: MODULE CONTROLS MULTIPLEX CIRCUIT BY DATA, NO ADDITIONAL RELAYS OR RESISTORS REQUIRED.

Remember that the Blade-AL diagram only supplies the wiring it needs and might leave out some R/S wires.

The bypass module (Blade-AL) does a lot for you. Just follow the diagram and don't worry. Get your +12V constant from the Black connector at the BCM. Use the Red/White wire at Pin 2. You can combine the two CM900 power wires into one and fuse it down a bit. Use the CM900's (-) Parking Light wire and connect to PARKING LIGHTS (-) BROWN/WHITE wire at the White BCM connector, Pin 8. You can connect the CM900 to the horn wire if you wish but with a CM900AS you have the siren. If the car doesn't have a factory Alarm system with a Hood Pin, you should install a hood pin and connect the CM900.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

do not hook up anything that is not shown it that diagram. GM pk3/ignition are computerized and the does everything at the time it is needed and well below the normal 12 volts

-------------
33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!

the pink from the blade module is "only" for programing.

Thank you everyone to take the time to reply to my post. Much appreciated.

I went ahead and hooked everything up like it's posted above. Including parking lights, siren and hood pin. Everything seems to work from unlocking/locking doors to remote starting the car.

The only problem i have now is that i can not start the car with the key anymore. The passlock light in the dash is solid and will not go out. The lights in the dash go on in the 'on' position with the key but will not activate the starter once I turn it. I attempted the GM 30 minute key learning procedure with two different original keys but the passlock light will not go out after 10 minutes.

Car starts via remote without problems but not with the key. I attempted to disconnect everything from remote starter to blade Al and tried again but problem stayed exactly the same.

I also noticed that after i drive the car (started via remote)...i turn the key to the off position to shut it completely off......then turn it past the 'on' position to engage the starter again and it actually starts BUT only runs for a couple of seconds and shuts back off. While the passlock light stays on.

I also tried to bypass the starter relay while the key is in the on position. I can engage the starter to turn the motor but it will not fire. I assume that's due to the passlock not engaging the fuel injectors or the pump. I'm guessing here.

I read that some CTS do have ECU problems which causes starter issues. Do you think something might've gotten damaged ?

-------------
JB D.

reconnect that pk3 12+ wire and see if it starts, check to see if that wire has power with your dmm, you may have popped the fuse and also check to see if the wires (from the RS) are on the right sides-white/black going into the connection and white/red on the other side. When in doubt take it back to factory and see if that solves the problem. Hopefully you soldered the connections and no t taps or crimps

-------------
33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!

Happy Friday everybody,

I reconnected the pk3 12+ wire back to was it was before I started messing with it but nothing changed. I checked the 12v wire on the PK3 but I am not getting any power at all. Checked all the fuses from passlock to several bcm (under hood and in trunk). All of them are in working order.

I did not solder anything yet. Was hoping to make sure everything works first. I used displacement connectors for now. I tested all my wires with a voltmeter during install to make sure there is connectivity between each of them.

I'm definitely not getting 12v on the PK3 Plug.

-------------
JB D.

under the hood make sure you check this fuse, this one is the power for the pk3 12+ wire

PWR MODING ... PassKey Module, Body Control Module 2amp fuse

-------------
33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!

I checked the power modding fuse during my lunch and it turns out that it was blown. Thanks for pointing this out, i was not aware that it was part of the pk3.

I don't have to wiggle the key between off and on anymore to be able to get it out of the ignition which is a great start. If i start it with the remote and shut off with the key, i can reengage the starter with the key but car only runs for 2 seconds. If it sits for about 30 minutes then the key won't engage the starter at all which is very strange.

Can still start and drive it via remote only.

-------------
JB D.

Big Update !! Drove my car back to work after my last post. I noticed that the Passlock light turned off shortly after I parked the Car. Turned the key and she started up like nothing ever happened. Had the car sit for a couple hours...went back outside to test it and voilà....she starts right up again.

Turns out that the power modding fuse was the culprit this whole time.

Thank you everyone who took the time to read and reply to my post. You are all awesome !! Words can not describe how thankful I am for your input.

-------------
JB D.

that's awesome you got it working!!

-------------
33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!