2014 Ford Focus, Remote Start Module/Alarm

I have been doing remote starts in the past. Newest thing prior to this is a 2010 Ford edge. This is a 2014 Ford focus standard key sedan auto. I am trying to put remote start in it for my wife. I am wanting to use the viper 5806v only because the remote case can be swapped out to Pink which is her favorite color. I am really unsure of what bypass module to use at this point. I was thinking a 556 if all else fells, then I was looking at the dball. Only problem is I don't have a direct tech login to reflash the module. my past alarms I used the heavy gauge wire and pkfm or xko5 prior to this. I am a little lost. Upon looking at the installation manual for dball I was curious of where to hook the heavy gauge wires if even needed and also how the door triggers would work. Anyone have any suggestions of a different module let me know. Or even if this can be done. Thank you

Get ready for some learning on this one. Several specific car and Viper issues come to mind that need to be addressed.

The selected Viper 5806v is an alarm system, too. Are you planning on using the Vipers' alarm functions? The Viper uses the DBI communications on its'D2D port exclusively for the bypass module. Are you planning on going D2D? You could aslo go W2W but that entails a lot of extra inter-module wires.

Does the Focus have a Lock/Unlock button in the center stack area? Does the Focus have the Factory Alarm? Does it have a Factory Hood Pin?

Your Focus uses N.C. Door, Trunk and Hood pins. A full feature bypass module makes the install easier by obtaining the door/hood/trunk status off the CAN Bus and supplying it to the Viper in a normal N.O. form.   

While the Focus has the 80 Bit PATS system most newer bypass modules use a Cloning operation ( Viper calls it Key2Go ) to create a working bypass module. This typically requires a bypass module Flash device and Dealer access. Some bypass-only modules can be programmed to the car without "Cloning" if you have two working, original factory, non-clone keys. And, of course, if you have those 2 keys, you could buy a blank transponder key, get it cut, program it yourself and use the 556-U Key-In-Box bypass module.

The vehicles main ignition wires aren't the thick wires used in older vehicles. The Vipers thick wires can be directly connected to these thin vehicles wires or you can "gauge them down" to make the wire run and connection easier and neater. I use some high quality 18 gauge wire with similar colors to achieve this.

There are other considerations but for me, I use iDatalink products (ADS-AL-CA) and have the ADS-USB cable and Dealer access to flash the module and use the KLON process to program it to the car. Most all of the connections are at the BCM behind the glovebox. The hardest part there is removing the glove box with its' hidden screws. Watch a YouTube video on this removal procedure if you haven't done it before. This might be possible for you if you wanted to spend the money on an ADS-USB cable and obtain iDatalink WEB site access. Another option would be using a Fortin EVO-ALL. Properly flashed you could run in DBI D2D mode and program it to you Focus yourself if you had those 2 working Factory keys. You could also buy a Fortin FlashLink4 module and do it completely yourself.

The last option would be to get a PATS bypass module like the Fortin EVO-RIDE. It comes already flashed and can be programmed to the vehicle using the 2 working keys previously mentioned. Everything else would have to be hard-wired. The N.C. door pins would be a PITA but if you use the Dome Light and get around its' Fade-Out routine, you're all set. If you wanted to use the actual door pins, get a Omega AU-NCT module to facilitate the process.

Here are some links to the current install guides mentioned above :

Fortin EVO-Ride :   https://cdn02.fortin.ca/download/14221/evo-ride_fordfocus2012_d20140325.pdf
Fortin EVO-ALL :   https://cdn02.fortin.ca/download/32021/evo-all_ig_reg_bi_for-focus_2012-2015_80bits_b_32021.pdf
iDatalink ADS-AL-CA   :   https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-FM4/DBI-AL(DL)-FM4-EN_20191218.pdf
Omega AU-NCT :   https://www.wiresheet.com/v3/install_guides/Accessories/AU-NCT%20-%20Normally%20Closed%20Trigger%20Adaptor.pdf


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Soldering is fun!

5806v plan on using full alarm, i did plan on doing d2d. i just never have used d2d other then just a status output for a pkfm. i didnt know how much info it would transfer across d2d. bascailly anything that would normally be w2w how much is done with using d2d. i was actually looking at using a dball and using a t-harness to cut even more wiring down. what you think of that? would a dball work with what im trying to do.

the un/lock button is in the center stack, doesnt not have factory alarm, doesnt have a hood pin.

i do have 2 ford keys, i work at ford so getting a 3rd key for the 556u isnt a problem.

if i was to get a dball with a t-harness and flashed correct, would most of the alarm functions go though d2d? and like above would i need to connect any of the wires of the 5806 to the actually car harness.

ill check out those other bypass. i was at one time looking at a evo-one, that uses the factory remote the 3x lock starts. ill paint her factory key pink and call it done, lol. its very simple going that route.

ill stick with my old stuff for now till i can get some access to flash loaders. thanks.

definitely use a a data bypass like a db3 or al-ca so its a easier install. The 556u waste of time if you have to use the data bypass for some of the convince items. that's the good news. Bad news is this car isn't super easy but not super hard to do. Most of your connections are behind the glove box so you have to take that out to get to the bcm. Do wire to wire and not a t-harness, it just adds time to the install and only take care of about 4 or 5 wires. You'll need a relay and 3 amp diodes for the lights, diodes for the unlock wires (up to 2 if present). Programming is kind of a pain as you have to have all the doors and hood shut during it but luckily you have two keys since it will be 80bit encryption. Ford like to put several of the same color wires in each harness so you have to take the covering off and count each pin to line them up correctly, not hard just very time consuming. Im not a big viper fan as we seem to have alot of problems with there remotes, not a bad company just more quarks. I think last xmas every focus in town decided to do a RS, I probably did 50-75 of them and got the time down to about 2ish hours. have fun

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33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!

More info...

OK, Viper 5806v with a DBALL3 and the THFD1 T-Harness. Please note that the $65 T-Harness only handles the PATS and Main Ignition connections. As a Ford Tech the glove-box removal will not be an issue. First let me say that I don't use or have much experience with DEI bypass modules, except the older XK0x and PK series.

The DBALL3 should be flashed with 403.FORD4.3.13 firmware. This can only be done by a DEI Dealer with proper equipment. Make sure the shop that flashes the DBALL3 also provides the full install guide.   That's the bad news. The good news is if you have 2 working keys, you don't have to use Key2Go for PATS bypass programming. You won't need a 556U or a spare key either. Additional good news is that you can use the THFD1 T-Harness. The DBALL3 will supply the door pin and trunk pin status but won't supply the Hood Pin because the car does not have one. You will have to install and use the Viper kit supplied hood pin directly connected to the 5806v.

You will be making a few hard-wire connections to the vehicle. You will need two 6 Amp diodes to split the Vipers (+) Parking Light output for connection to the car.

Other suggestions :
I would recommend soldering all the hard-wire connections. I would run the Tach signal between the Viper and the DBALL3. D2D sometimes doesn't work too well with the Tach signal. Make sure the Viper Parking Light jumper/fuse is installed and set to (+) output. They can be knocked loose during shipping. There is a note concerning the power window types and power lock wiring. Verify and install accordingly. The DBALL3 supplies the E-Brake signal to the Viper via the DBI connection. This will make it necessary to set the E-Brake for the R/S to function. If you don't like this pre-requisite, you can connect the Viper's Neutral Safety wire to Chassis Ground.

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Soldering is fun!