2004 Chevrolet G3500, CM900S, and BLADE-AL

Hello all. I'm a retired CGMAT (30 yrs) and retired mfr. Tech Training Course Developer .. but I'm new to Remote Start & Alarm installs. Also lost touch with the various OEM starting & security systems after the 2000's.

I'm going to put a Compustar 920S kit with a Blade-AL card in my 2004 Chevy/Winnebago G3500 and I'm still a bit dizzy from trying to understand the various systems (the "lay of the land") and the Compustar & idatalink functions & methods. I get the various reasons mfr's want to keep specifics under wraps, but this field is nuts! I'm SO glad I found this forum!!

Anyway, being an ex-Tech Training guy I of course made a graphic of what I think my wiring should look like and I'm hoping someone(s) can have a look to see if I'm on the right track before I have a go at the installation. Someone on the idatalink site told me that the Blade AL comes with NO programming but I'm having a hard time with that, especially since I think all my application needs is the J1850 bus & Passlink II learning capabilities? My vehicle has std keys, no smart keys (thank goodness).

Thanks in advance guys, and Happy Thanksgiving.

The above image appears broken (it's a web link to a png file) and I don't know if it needs approval?
Here's an attempt at a direct upload of a jpg file-

The iDatalink Blade-AL is a very flexible unit that can perform many functions to support many different vehicles and applications. As such, it must be Flashed with the correct firmware prior to use. In your case you need the GM1 firmware. If you bought it online, sometimes the seller will Flash the module with the requested firmware prior to shipment. If that didn't happen, you can do it yourself but will need an ADS-USB cable (~$40).

As for secrets, well, all manufacturers in this industry try to protect their authorized dealers by NOT providing info or Tech Support to DIYers. You are on your own. That goes for repair returns, too.

Not a big deal for you as your vehicle is pretty easy (once you get the Blade-AL flashed). If you are lucky or have some friends or contacts, you might get some local 12V shop to flash the module. Otherwise buy the ADS-USB cable.

The Blade-AL w/GM1 handles a few things for you besides the Passlock2 bypass. It does the door locks, alarm system (if equipped) and supplies a Tach Signal.

Looking at your proposed wiring chart, everything looks good. Even though the Blade-AL supplies a Tach signal, I would go with your hardwired Tach input as the GM1 firmware has been known to drop/lose this output.

The two Trigger Start inputs do just that. They will initiate a R/S with the correct input.

The Black (-) Status Output is typically used to control an external bypass module like the ADS AL-CA. It goes (-) at the start of a R/S sequence and stays (-) for a few seconds after the R/S ends.

The (-) Parking Light output can control a relay but many vehicles actually need a (-) Parking Light signal.

The only thing you don't have powered during a R/S is the Brown ACC2 wire. It might not be necessary to power this wire during a R/S. Just check that the Heat / A/C work completely during a R/S.

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Soldering is fun!

As it appeared from my surfing of the site prior to asking .. you ARE the MAN! :)

I'm now understanding that the AL cards are indeed blank (going back & forth with the seller). If I buy an ADS-USB cable, should I buy the Idealink or the Compustar in your opinion? What concerns me is the ability to access the online firmware & install/wiring pinout info now & in the future. I see that (Idealink?) use a web interface, will purchase ensure that I can connect & flash the unit without being an "authorized" dealer for either cable (Compustar or Idealink)? A better alternative suggestion?

Thanks for your quick reply. I'll be out of internet reach the rest of the week & weekend so enjoy your Thanksgiving.