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2012 Toyota Sequoia, Defrost Trigger Issue

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=147166
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 2:13 AM


Topic: 2012 Toyota Sequoia, Defrost Trigger Issue

Posted By: indyfast500
Subject: 2012 Toyota Sequoia, Defrost Trigger Issue
Date Posted: December 07, 2021 at 9:50 PM

Hey all!
So I have been professionally installing (M.E.C.P) for a long time and I've never been this stumped.
I am working on a 2012 toyota sequoia.
I am installing a compustar DC3 and the customer wants defrost to trigger. Usually not a big deal. The defrost trigger is pin 3 of a 20 pin grey plug in the driver's kick and is -latched . Again normally not a big deal... I found and confirmed it was the correct one wire ( 12 volts when off 0 when on). Then I programmed the POC to POC2 on the module. I then set it up for defrost and 15 minutes. Should be fine and dandy right?! WRONG! So I confirmed I'm getting a -250 MA latched to the wire. So that is correct. When remote started the wire now shows 1.3 volts instead of 12/13. So I know I did something right. Now the kicker is that the damn defrost isn't earning to my knowledge. It's been my experience that the light on defrost button comes on to confirm it's working. I don't have that. I even tried 2 pocs to the same trigger hoping it was just a beefy relay and it needed a little more than -250ma. That didn't fix it. So I am asking for the council of many... wth can I do at this point. Thinking a relay to boost the signal or Mosfet and resistor.. but I feel like I'm looking to close at it and this is all just a ID10T problem.
Thanks for all help in advance!



Replies:

Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: December 08, 2021 at 4:38 AM
I've never tried to do rear defrost on that car but I've done quite a few different ones. Did you confirm the defrost isn't coming on ? Maybe the grid is working but you don't get a dash indicator ? You could measure what the defrost wire needs for current and make sure your within the 250mA range. Maybe a relay is needed to boost your ground signal.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: mgoetz74
Date Posted: December 08, 2021 at 1:11 PM
dc3 output on that is temp controlled, should have come with a thermistor to plug in. The flash page you can adjust the temp it comes on at or have it come on every time but then you risk burning out the defrost in the summer

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33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!




Posted By: indyfast500
Date Posted: December 08, 2021 at 1:24 PM
Actually I did confirm it's not coming on.... I will try thw relay and go from there.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: December 08, 2021 at 6:53 PM
Directechs does not say anything about isolating from switch, but could this be the case? Maybe some of our more hands on guys can chime in on this. If this is the case it is a simple relay setup using an SPDT relay.

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 09, 2021 at 11:32 AM
I don't think isolation is necessary. A relay might supply a cleaner, stronger ground signal. On a lot of Toyota's and Honda's the Defroster ON indicator light does does come on. Some Hyundai's do but it's hit or miss. I would definitely check for +12 volts at the grid connectors. I usually use the temp probe and set the programming options for turn on below 42 degree F.

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Soldering is fun!





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