Blade AL Will Not Program, 2007 Honda Fit

Installing a Compustar remote start and alarm. Controller is a CM900AS and fitted with a Blade-Al. Used the ADS cable to flash the CM900AS to V 1.32 and flash the Blade to HA1 firmware. I believe everything is wired correctly with the controller. Blade only requires 3 wires per the install manual (document 61433).

-White/black from controller to security light connector side of the red/black wire at ignition 7 pin connector.
-White/red from controller to security light harness side of the red/black wire at ignition 7 pin connector.
-Orange/black tapped into the green/white wire at ignition 7 pin connector.

Went to follow the programming procedure.. plugged in unit, Blades LED is solid red, turned key to on, waited and nothing happens. Per the manual the LED should turn solid blue for 2 seconds and then I should turn off the ignition.
I am able to trigger a remote start but the engine just turns (tachless mode). The gauge cluster is displaying a key icon when doing this so the blade is not working. I have tried factory resetting the blade and reloading firmware. Not sure what else to try.

-Corey

Forgot to mention.. car is a 2007 Honda Fit Automatic.

First a few checks.

Verify that there are no bent pins in the blades' docking station and that the Blade cartridge slides in smoothly. Also double check your CM900-AS Chassis Ground connection.

I have found a few wire color errors in the iDataLink install guides over the years but that's very rare. You posted that the Fits' Data wire was Green/White but the install guide lists it as Light Green/Black. Below is a photo from a Fortin install guide that shows that connector. Their photo and wire list both have that Data wire as Light Green/Black. I would double check that connector and your wiring. If there is no Light Green/Black wire, go by the pin position.



While it's not shown in the Blade-AL wire diagram, the Blade-AL relies on seeing the Ignition wire come on during programming and normal operation. Make sure that you have the CM900-AS thick Green Ignition wire connected to the vehicles' Black/Yellow IGN wire. Another test to verify the ignition wiring would be to insert but not turn the working ignition key and try a remote start.

Do you get the correct Blade LED indications when you do a Factory Reset? Typically, I always do a Factory Reset during install and go right into the vehicle programming procedure.

Last possibility is a bad Blade-AL cartridge. This is extremely rare but could happen. If you must get another blade cartridge, you can use the less expensive Blade-TB. The Blade-AL is overkill for this application.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reply.

Checked the following. Male pins on the CM900AS are all straight and nothing bent or broken. The female pins on the Blade AL, while they are recessed, I can see the reflective metal on all pins from the opening.

Checked CM900AS ground by connecting black lead of my meter to the vehicle body and inserted red lead into the ground female pin of the CM900AS connector while it was unplugged and checked for continuity.. everything checked out.

Data connection wire... I was not in the garage when I was posting this so I mixed it up. I actually have it hooked to the light green/black per the idatalink manual and the picture above. Second pin is data and the red/black for security LED. Green/white is listed as data on an online diagram I found for a 2007 Honda Fit. There were some discrepancies between the online diagram and the idatalink manual. I have been following the idatalink manual and all wires have so far checked out. One interesting thing to note is ignition harness has the 7 pin connector I currently have all three bypass wires hooked to as well as a 6 pin connector. The 6 pin connector does have a green/white. I have not hooked anything to it for fear of damaging something but not sure if it is a coincidence or if the idatalink manual is wrong and the online diagram has this one right. Any thoughts?

Verified the thick green wire from the CM900AS is tapped into the black/yellow ignition wire. I also unplugged the CM900AS connector and verified I get 12 volts at the connector when the ignition is switched to on and 0 volts when the ignition is switched to off.

Plugged in a working key and left in the off position and initiated a remote start. The car remote started. During the remote start the Blade remained with the solid red LED.

I am able to factory reset. I insert the blade while holding the button below the blade module led. After plugging in and continuing to hold the button the LED remains off for ~2 seconds and then begins to flash. I release the button and the LED remains solid for ~2 seconds, turns off quickly, and then returns to solid red again. I then try turning the key to on position (not starting the vehicle) and wait per the instructions and nothing happens.

Last thing I will mention is all my connections are soldered so I do not think it is a loose wire issue. I looked on idatalink for legacy firmware to try an older version of HA1 but the version I have loaded is all that is available on the website.

Would you condemn the Blade module as being bad? Any other checks I can try?

Thank you again for the help.

-Corey

One last thought. Check the Blades Black 20 Pin plug. I did have one with a "pushed pin", where the wire didn't latch in the plug and backed out slightly when inserted. This would be on the Orange/Black wire.

Looks like you got everything correct if the Fits' Transponder connector it it looks like the one I posted, a Green 7 Pin plug. I remember that some Hoda ignition switches have other connectors and they are sometimes similar. Here is a link to a Fortin install guide for your car : https://fortin.ca/download/81921/evo-one_ig_reg_bi_hon_fit_2006-2008_key_a_81921.pdf   It has a photo of the ignition switch with the Main Ignition and transponder connectors located, just for additional reference.

You could try doing a firmware re-flash on the Blade-AL and try one more time. Other than that another Blade cartridge is the next step.   


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Soldering is fun!

So tried some more things today.

Checked the 20 pin plug. Both ends look okay. The orange/black wire female pin does not back out when inserted into the CM900AS and the all male pins on the black plug of the CM900AS are straight and not bent.

Plug looks exactly like the one in the picture. Is the security light wire just for the dash status light and the only important wire is the orange/black for data?

Amazoned a new blade module and it arrived today. Plugged it in and the light was flashing red. Unplugged the CM900 and plugged it into the laptop, flashed it with HA1, plugged back in and I got the same issue. The light stays solid red and will not program when turning to the on position. Tried a factory reset and same thing.

Checked out the manual and yes that is what it looks like under there. The 7 pin plug.. light green/black is the one I have the orange/black going to. Could the wiring diagrams have the wrong wire? Maybe a stretch that both idatalink and fortin would have it wrong. I tried searching for 2007 Honda Fit wiring diagrams but nothing showed which wire was which on that connector.

-Corey

Is the security light wire just for the dash status light and the only important wire is the orange/black for data?
I believe so. Not critical, more for aesthetic reasons.

Very strange. Maybe something wrong within thew CM900-AS. Sorry you are spending money testing. I have stock so trying a second Blade cartridge is no issue. For me the next step would be going with an ADS TB or Fortin Honda-SL3 or Key-OverRide-All bypass module. Going W2W between a bypass module and the CM900-AS would eliminate the CM900-AS docking station and some internal wiring.

Directed shows the same transponder harness wire colors and pin locations on their XK05, PKALL and DB-ALL modules.



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Soldering is fun!

check your ignition wire on the main harness of the cm900

simple way to check to ensure you are on the correct immo wire is to unplug the connector that you think has immmo. If the car starts, you are at the wrong plug.

ADS TB arrived yesterday. First tried it in data mode and no luck. Switched to W2W and after some programming issues it ended up blinking green and now everything is working. Must be something bad with my CM900AS on the socket/data circuitry. Thanks for the help guys!

-Corey