2001 Chevrolet Silverado, GMDLBP Bypass And 451M Module?

Are there any pictorials for a GMDLBP bypass module and 451m module. My bypass module didn't come with any instructions and I can't fine anything for a 2001 silverado. From what I've been told the 2001 silverado has positive door triggers so the 451 modules would be needed. Also will the door triggers still need to be diode isolated with the 451 module. Thanks for your help.

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Tory209

Here is a Pictorial on your truck : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135786
It will provide info on the 451M door lock module. Probably just a nomenclature thing but the truck has Positive ( Type A ) Door locks and needs the 451M to convert the R/S's (-) Door Lock actuator outputs. No diode isolation is needed for door lock control. Door Triggers are the signals from the truck that supply the door open/closed status.

Here is a link to the GMDLBP Install Guide : https://directechs.blob.core.windows.net/documents/1646_gmdlbp_h02_s05_d01_i_en.pdf
Please note that the bypass module does not show that it is compatible with the 2001 Silverado. Your truck needs a basic Passlock2 bypass module.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for your response. Would the basic passlock II bypass be the 791

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Tory209

The Bulldog Security 791 module will handle the Passlock2 and if price is a major consideration, probably the least expensive.
There are better / easier modules available, but they will cost a bit more. I usually go with a Data style module like the Fortin INT-SL+ or one of the older, out of production modules from iDatalink like the ADS-TBSL-PL. Most other bypass modules require special Flash/Programming prior to use.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks again. I did notice in the GMDLBP instructions that it does not provide door unlock for Passlock 2. Could it just be used for the bypass feature since the 451m is handling the door unlock. Cannot find the iDataLink ADS-TBSL-PL model for sale. Seems a lot easier to install than the 791 or XK09.

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Tory209

There were a lot of changes with the newer body style Silverado. The Fortin INT-SL and INT-SL+ can do Passlock2 on either truck but I'm not sure if the GMDLBP can do just the Passlock2 on the older models.

The nice thing about the ADS TBSL PL and the INT-SL is they come pre-loaded and ready to go right out of the box. The XK09 would need a flash to get the correct firmware loaded on it. You might try to find an online seller to buy an ADS TB flashed with the GM firmware. That would be an easy install with just one wire to the truck (and 4 wires to the R/S controller).


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Soldering is fun!

Ok. I ended up going with the Fortin Passlock-SL2 v.2. I'm not sure about the Blue (-) While running wire to remote starter or how to handle the N.C wires. My remote starter has an Oil Path Detection wire as well. Any help would be appreciated.

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Tory209

The (-) BLUE While Running wire goes to a R/S wire called (-) Status Out or (-) Ground While Running. A lot of those "offshore" units do not have such an output. Perhaps a (-) Ignition? That bypass input turns on the Passlock2 bypass signal.

Oil Path Detection is the "offshore" equivalent of Tack Input. Not a good solution. The manual usually gives a work around, like just connecting it to Ignition....

Good luck with that R/S unit.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah I've come to realize this offshore unit is a real hassle. There's no such wire on this unit. It's not the unit itself it's making the bypass work with the r/s.

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Tory209

It's possible, just a PITA.

Your truck needs both IGN1 and IGN2 powered during a R/S. You will need to use two 12V relays to do it correctly. Use the IGN2 output to control both relays. Wire as below using 30/40 Amp SPDT Relays.

R/S IGN2 to relay Pin 86, both relays
Chassis Ground to Pin 85, both relays
R/S IGN2 to Relay 1 Pin 87
Relay 1 Pin 30 to truck White IGN2

Chassis Ground to Relay 2 Pin 87
Relay 2 Pin 30 to bypass (-) when Running

That will allow the R/S to power both vehicle ignition with isolated power and supply the needed GWR signal to the bypass module only during a R/S.

You can get the relays w/ 5 wire harness from EBay, etc.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks again for all your help. My last question is about the factory disarm (green wire). My R/S doesn't have a disarm/rearm wire (shocker). I know the truck has a factory alarm but I was not given the key fob when I bought the truck and the replacement I bought never worked. Can the factory alarm be bypassed for the aftermarket.

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Tory209

I'm not sure if disabling the Factory Alarm system is possible. Never tried. You might try a Silverado Forum for that aspect.

A possible work around is never setting the Factory Alarm. Typically, the only way to turn on the Factory Alarm is with the Lock button on the Factory FOB or by locking the doors with the inside door Lock button on exit. If you only use the Aftermarket FOB's to Lock the doors, the Factory Alarm system will never be enabled.

As far as disarm during an Unlock command you could buy some 1N4001 diodes and split the (-) Unlock signal wire, connecting it to both the 451M vehicle Unlock wire input and the vehicle Disarm wire. Info below :
OEM Alarm Disarm    Light GREEN (-)    AT B.C.M. BELOW THE STEERING COLUMN
The truck needs a (+) Unlock signal (from the 451M output) and a (-) Disarm signal

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Soldering is fun!

As soon as I hook my battery up the 451m starts making this loud buzzing sound.when I press the unlock or lock button on the door nothing happens. Same with the alarm FOB.

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Tory209

It would help to know the R/S wiring for the two lock relays. That's the Orange, White & Yellow wires for Lock and the Orange/Black, White/Black & Yellow/Black wires for Unlock.

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Soldering is fun!

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Tory209

Being as the offshore R/S unit has built in lock relays, the 451m is not necessary. While it could be used, it would be redundant.

Omit the 451m if you are using it and follow the Fig.2 Positive Trigger Lock diagram.
Connect the R/S White wire to Silverado Lt. Blue (+) BCM, brown plug, pin A4
Connect the White/Black wire to Silverado White (+) BCM, brown plug, pin A3

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Soldering is fun!

The locks worked fine after using the figure 2 diagram. When I remote start the truck it tries to crank but dies immediately. The dash lights will be on and the I see the bypass module light up. I wired the 2 relays according to your instructions. Is the bypass supposed to kick on before it tries to crank? Or could this be from the factory alarm

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Tory209

To be more specific it seems like maybe the R/S IG2 is delayed. I hear the relays click on and the bypass light comes on about 7 seconds after it tries to start

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Tory209

Typical proper R/S sequence will turn on GWR about 1 second before the R/S brings up the (+) IGN1 output. Then a slight delay before the Starter Output is turned ON to crank the engine. Your offshore unit (without a GWR output) is using the IGN output to turn on the bypass module, so no advanced bypass engagement.

Is the Security Light ON during R/S attempt? Did the PASSLOCK-SL2 bypass module program correctly and give 3 Blinks?

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Soldering is fun!

To be more specific it seems like maybe the R/S IG2 is delayed

It's possible with that R/S unit. Ideally, both IGN1 and IGN2 should have the exact same timing. You could try using IGN1 as the control input for the two relays.

As a test, you could apply a jumper to Chassis Ground on the PASSLOCK-SL2 (-) While Running input just prior to a R/S attempt.

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Soldering is fun!

The security light comes on immediately after it dies. The passlock 2 blinks 5 times when programmed. I spoke with customer support and they didn't seem concerned about the 5 flashes. I saw in a video that it was supposed to flash 3x. According to the schematics I'm supposed to use diagram 4 (Passlock2B). It shoes that Orange/Black and Orange both connect to the yellow wire @ the ignition and the black ground wire goes to the Black/Orange @ the ignition. Assuming these are the wires that plug into the key cylinder.




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Tory209

Yes, Schematic 4 is correct. Those 3 Passlock2 wires do come from the ignition cylinder.

The Yellow wire should be 5V and then drop down a bit (depending on the cylinders internal resistor value) when the key is turned to Start.

You could try re-programming the module after verifying the Passlock2 wires.

That's why I like to use a Data Style bypass module...

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Soldering is fun!

She cranks right up when I wire it to ignition 1 but now it won't shut off when I insert the key and press the brake. I have the brake wire hooked up and the handbrake wire grounded per the instructions for an automatic.

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Tory209

I mean it will shut down by remote but once I step on the brake the remote start or bypass won't shut off unless I unplug the harness

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Tory209

First, offshore unit are unpredictable...:V:

In the wiring diagram it says "IGN2 output the power supply which will interrupt at the moment of startup". Besides not completely understanding that statement, that's not how it's supposed to work.

IGN1 and IGN2 should be the same. They should be turned on and stay on the entire duration of the R/S. ACC should come on with IGN but drop during crank time. Your truck needs to see the White IGN2 during a R/S or you will get a transmission fault. Perhaps the best way to do it is with 3 relay, all controlled by IGN1. Two realys would have a 25 Amp fused output positive output for IGN1 and IGN2. The third relay would be a (-) output for the bypass control.

As for your current issue that keeps the truck running after the Brake is pressed and the key is removed, check your wiring to the relays. Only the R/S IGN1 signal should be going to Pin 86, nothing else.

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Soldering is fun!

I did confirm that the R/S ign2 has a delay by using a test light. The setup you gave me was relay #1 87,86 + 86 on relay 2 to IGN 2 on R/S. Relay #1 30 to truck ign2 (White)
85 on both relays + 87 on relay #2 to ground. Relay #2 30 to - while running on bypass module. I just stitched to IGN 1 and wire R/S ign2 directly to white wire

I may just bypass the passlock 2 with resistors at this point. Hate to start over with a new unit

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Tory209

Yes, a permanent Passlock2 bypass with a resistor might be the way to go. Re-Learn the new resistor value and you're all set. No immobilizer security but the R/S will work all the time.

As mentioned, 3 relays all controller by IGN1 is another option.

A standard U.S spec R/S unit will have Disarm, Ground When Running, a proper Tach Sense circuit and correctly timed ignition outputs, just saying.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok.i hear you loud and clear. I'm considering the Avital 4103lx or the 4105. Leaning towards the 4105 because the 4103 appears to need programing to choose either IGN2 or ACC. While the 4105 appears let you wire it how you desire. I do not own a bitwriter to do programming. Just need a basic keyless entry/Remote start without the missing wires of the "offshore" models.

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Tory209