2000 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer, Compustar CS2WQ900-AS, Peer Review Wiring
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=148220
Printed Date: May 03, 2025 at 12:04 AM
Topic: 2000 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer, Compustar CS2WQ900-AS, Peer Review Wiring
Posted By: cooterjenkins
Subject: 2000 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer, Compustar CS2WQ900-AS, Peer Review Wiring
Date Posted: November 27, 2024 at 3:23 PM
Some years ago, I tried to install a Viper 4706V into my Blazer without checking in here first to have someone look at my proposed wiring. Due to that, there's a very real chance that I bricked the brain for that unit. After not having a remote start for the 3 years or so since I did that, I thought I'd give it another go, only this time with Compustar.
The controller is a CM900-AS, and I'm looking to have someone look over the wiring for this truck to make sure, this time before I do the install, that I have everything laid out correctly.
I got a Blade-AL and the iDatalink ADS-USB cable to write the firmware and the programming to the controller, mostly to overwrite the Passlock II system in the Blazer. The Blade also outputs a tach signal, but I've come to learn the signal may not be very reliable. I'd previously ran a wire from the tach output wire located in the 32 pin Red plug (Pin 20) under the hood into the cab, so I can use that if necessary.
I might have some follow-up questions about parking light output, and which wire to use (CM2 vs CM3), and using only the Tan (-) wire at the BCM for door trigger input.
Thanks for the help, it's always appreciated.
 
Replies:
Posted By: lee.lopez
Date Posted: November 29, 2024 at 11:58 AM
For the most part this looks good.
Just a few things: The Red/white at the ignition harness should just be red. Brown is common at the parking lights or BCM but should be light blue at the switch. Tan is the driver's door trigger only. If you want all doors covered, diode isolate and connect all at the BCM.

Posted By: cooterjenkins
Date Posted: December 04, 2024 at 4:36 PM
Thanks for the info Lee, appreciate it.
I intend to only use the TAN (-) B4 wire in the BCM as dome light supervision.
Only other question I have is this: is there a reason to use the green/white (+) wire in the CN-1 harness vs. using the green/white (-) wire in the CN-3 harness? Just preference of which polarity is more available or what is the deal here?
Posted By: lee.lopez
Date Posted: December 04, 2024 at 5:23 PM
Yes, exactly. Use whichever is more convenient.
Posted By: cooterjenkins
Date Posted: December 31, 2024 at 5:29 PM
Lee -
Thanks for the advice. Wanted to come back to say this install went perfectly, and to thank you for your help.
One weird thing that I can't exactly figure out: my HVAC doesn't seem to start up until the vehicle has been taken over by the key for some reason. Everything else is working, parking lights, stereo is on, basically everything except for the blower motor. The way I understand the accessory wires is that the orange wire in the ignition switch harness has control of most of the electronic systems, including HVAC. There is a brown wire in the ignition harness that's marked second accessory, but in researching this I think this wire controls retained accessory power, secondary to what the orange wire carries.
The Blazer has a second ignition that must be wired with the Compustar's blue wire in the CN-1 harness, as set by jumper in the controller to ignition.
Any ideas why the defrost isn't working until the key takes over the vehicle?
Posted By: lee.lopez
Date Posted: January 01, 2025 at 8:01 AM
You likely need to power the brown accessory wire. You can program a POC to option 31 and use that to pulse the door trigger to shutdown RAP when remote start shuts down.
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