EasyGuard EC300N PKE Remote/Push Start, 1996 Buick Riviera
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=148433
Printed Date: November 04, 2025 at 5:33 AM
Topic: EasyGuard EC300N PKE Remote/Push Start, 1996 Buick Riviera
Posted By: mistertomlinson
Subject: EasyGuard EC300N PKE Remote/Push Start, 1996 Buick Riviera
Date Posted: November 03, 2025 at 11:31 AM
I am completely new to this. I know the general consensus is to seek professional help, but I think I have this figured out on my own and just needed someone with knowledge of this stuff to proof read my wiring. Note: I plan to defeat the car's VATS system with a resistor.
I'm using the EasyGuard EC300N PKE remote/push start kit. From what I understand, a '96 Riviera will need relays on IGN 1,2,3, Starter and ACC. One question: the car has an IGN3 wire the remote start doesn't have. From what I've read, it matches the IGN 2 wire in when it receives power, so am I correct that I can just use the IGN2 wire from the remote start to trigger a relay for the car's IGN2 and 3?
I'm also planning to run all the relays from the same constant 12V at the fuse box, sharing one 30A fuse. Is this OK?
The Riviera also has negative wires for the trunk release and door trigger. The remote start has jumpers for each of those that can be changed to support the negative wires. This does mean I don't have to use relays for those, correct?
Finally, this has nothing to do with the wiring. I'm not exactly sure how to defeat the steering wheel lock. I had planned to turn the key to the ON position and remove the ignition cylinder altogether, but it would seem that this would leave the power on. I had wondered if I'd be able to unplug the ignition harness at the steering wheel to prevent the power from staying on.
Another idea was to physically cut parts of the plate inside the steering wheel that enables the locking mechanism to function. That way, the locking pin would have nothing to slide into and prevent turning.
Thanks for any help anyone could give me. Hopefully my image is legible.
I'm using the EasyGuard EC300N PKE remote/push start kit. From what I understand, a '96 Riviera will need relays on IGN 1,2,3, Starter and ACC. One question: the car has an IGN3 wire the remote start doesn't have. From what I've read, it matches the IGN 2 wire in when it receives power, so am I correct that I can just use the IGN2 wire from the remote start to trigger a relay for the car's IGN2 and 3?
I'm also planning to run all the relays from the same constant 12V at the fuse box, sharing one 30A fuse. Is this OK?
The Riviera also has negative wires for the trunk release and door trigger. The remote start has jumpers for each of those that can be changed to support the negative wires. This does mean I don't have to use relays for those, correct?
Finally, this has nothing to do with the wiring. I'm not exactly sure how to defeat the steering wheel lock. I had planned to turn the key to the ON position and remove the ignition cylinder altogether, but it would seem that this would leave the power on. I had wondered if I'd be able to unplug the ignition harness at the steering wheel to prevent the power from staying on.
Another idea was to physically cut parts of the plate inside the steering wheel that enables the locking mechanism to function. That way, the locking pin would have nothing to slide into and prevent turning.
Thanks for any help anyone could give me. Hopefully my image is legible.