Viper 5706V, Minimum to Boot? Bench Testing?

I installed a Viper 5706V. Got everything connected. But the LED on the control module never blinks. Not when I press its button, connect power to the brain, press a remote button, never.
And the remote says it doesn't detect the brain.

So, does anyone know what the absolute minimum wiring is required just to ensure the brain turns on and the control module is synched to the remote?
I want to put it on my bench and just ensure it turns on.

I tried just these two with the control center plugged in, but the LED still never lights up.

H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND

And I'm getting the same behavior with a replacement 5706V.

Assuming your remote batteries are good (LED flashes on button presses), do a continuity test of the antenna wire. Also make sure the FCC ID number is the same on both the remotes and the antenna.

If both of those check out, I'd try another antenna.

Yeah, I'm getting the same behavior with a replacement 5706V too.

I also tried putting the three red wires from the remote-start connector to 12V, and put the black/white (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT to ground.

Still no LED action on either alarm's control module.

Both remotes are in great working order.

I tested the antenna end of the antenna cable coming from the brain and two different pins show 5V.
Which would suggest to me that both antenna control modules are dead/malfunctioning.
There can't be that much to them. Not sure what would be failing in the control modules.

The apparent resolution:

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1. Disable the "Logic Lock" (Establishing the Handshake)
The brain was effectively "stuck" in a safety shutdown because it didn't see the specific inputs required to boot the RF antenna.

The Fix: We provided a Common Ground for both the Main Ground (H1/2 Black) and the Neutral Safety Input (H2/13 Black/White).

The "Door" Signal: We grounded the H2/15 Green wire to simulate an open door, which is a prerequisite for the brain to allow programming or mode changes.

2. Exit Valet Mode
Your units were shipping/reset into Valet Mode, which is indicated by a solid blue LED. In this state, the alarm "sleeps" and refuses to pair with any new remotes.

The Fix: While the unit was powered, we turned the "Ignition" on (Pink H3/1 to 12V+), then pressed and released the Control Button on the antenna exactly once.

The Result: This toggled the Valet setting to "OFF," causing the solid blue LED to turn off when the ignition was removed.

3. Pair the New Remote
Once the brain was out of Valet Mode and seeing an "Open Door" (Green to Ground), it finally allowed the pairing handshake.

The Fix: 1. Ignition ON (Pink to 12V+).
2. Press and release, then press and hold the Control Button.
3. The brain acknowledged the request with a flash/chirp, opening the window for the remote to sync.

verbatim:

1. Bitwriter Lock (Real)
Professional installers can use a DEI handheld tool called a Bitwriter to lock the "system features" of a brain.

The Effect: If a unit is "Locked," it ignores the physical Control Button on the antenna for programming. It essentially prevents a customer from changing settings.

The Bench Symptom: If your unit is Bitwriter Locked, you cannot enter pairing mode using the "Ignition On / Press-and-Hold Button" sequence. However, this does not explain why your LED is dark. Even a locked unit should still flash the LED when the button is pressed or power is applied.

2. D2D vs. ESP (Real)
The 4-pin data ports (usually Red or Blue) can be set to either D2D (Data-to-Data) or ESP (Directed's proprietary serial protocol).

The Reality: While this affects how the brain talks to bypass modules (like a DB3), it does not disable the 6-pin antenna port. The antenna port is a dedicated circuit.