Printer Friendly Forum Posts - kill switch and fake led activated by remote lead

Ok...I have some sort of idea of how this would work but need help from experienced people...you guys. Well I want to install a coil kill switch that also activates a flashing red led that i have recently installed. Now instead of using a switch, I would like to use the remote lead from the head unit to activate it, so that it will automatically work if i pull out the deatachable face. I'm thinking I would need some sort of relay for it to work without a toggle switch.

Do any of you know how I would wire this relay and what type of relay to get?

I have absolutely no idea how I would do this so please help!

Thnks

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1990 Ford Bronco ... Pioneer DEH-1400 ... Pioneer Micro Tweeters ... JBL 600.1 ... 2 12" JL W4-4's ...

Relay connections for LED:
#85 to chassis ground
#86 to +12V (battery, fused 5-amp)
#30 to power antenna lead of source unit
#87 to resistor-LED anode then connect LED cathode to chassis ground.

For the coil, just find the starter coil wire in the steering colume, cut it, and put in 2 hook-up wires, well-concealed, to a hidden locale of your choosing, where you'll mount an on/off switch. closed will let ya start the car, open will not.
The fuel pump +12V is another good line to sever with a kill switch.
Think of all the best places to hide that switch... then put it somewhere completely different.
hehehe
those first ideas will be the first places a crook will look.

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-GlassWolf
Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

why not make a starter kill that will only allow the car to start if the radio is turned on first that way you take the face with you when you leave and the car cant start until the face is back on and radio is turned on.:-)

why would he want the led to come on only when the radio is on.from what i'm reading above if the coil is always energized which it will be the the only way the led will come on is when he turns on his radio because pin 30 will get 12 volts sending it to pin 87 which will then light the led.. Maybe i dont get malafacha1's question but that will not work right if he wants the led to come on when he removes his faceplate.as for the 5 amp fuse he can use much less of a fuse for a led which dont come close to 5 amps current consumption.

And if he wanted the radio to control the LED when it was on for whatever reason i dont know. Then the conections would be pin 85 to ground pin 86 to the remote lead of the head unit pin 30 to the battery 12 volt constant and pin 87 to the LED also that led must have a resistor of the proper value or the LED will not work for long. .If thats what malafacha wants then the wiring that you gave would always keep the relay energized and it will still do the same thing as the wiring i wrote without keeping the relay energized which would be correct.

malafacha what you can do is wire two relays one for the starter kill and one for the led you can make the one relay activate the led as soon as the ignition is turned off and the other can be activated at the same time cutting the starter so the car wont start .NOW HERES THE COOL THING AND I THINK THIS MAY BE WHAT YOU WERE TALKING ABOUT. YOU CAN TRIGGER THAT STARTER RELAY WITH YOUR REMOTE LEAD ON THE RADIO THAT WAY THE ONLY WAY TO START THE CAR WOULD BE TO ATTACH THE FACE AND TURN THE RADIO ON FIRST.So having the relays like this will make someone think you have an alarm and will kill the starter in a pretty neat way without having to worry bout forgeting to flip a manual switch.If you like this idea post back i will tell you how to do it.

YES....mobiletoys2002...that's exactly what I wanted. I posted a detailed reply on exactly what I wanted but for some reason it didnt come up. Yes I would like you to post how to do that if possible. THANKS!!

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1990 Ford Bronco ... Pioneer DEH-1400 ... Pioneer Micro Tweeters ... JBL 600.1 ... 2 12" JL W4-4's ...

that was from memory I wasn't looking at the pin diagram for a relay.. essentially you just have it supply voltage to the LED when the remote lead from the stereo is open/off.
Anyway why wire the starter to the radio? If you need to start the car in a hurry you could be in serious trouble.
I try to keep my ideas at least a bit practical if not a touch on the conservative side.

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-GlassWolf
Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

yes i understand but the way you wrote it the relay would be constantly energized which makes no sense because the relay would be doing nothing at all.It would be like having a light switch in your house installed when you never turn the light off. I just went by what you posted thats all. i usually agree if i think its right but if you read what you wrote you would see. take it easy and i would like to see pics of that jeep im sorry that other take it easy car you talk about .

Ok malafacha1 here is what you asked for the way to wire the led would be to wire pin 86 to ground,pin 85 to ignition 12 volts,pin 87A to 12 volts constant,and pin 30 will go to the LED.

now for the starter kill pin 86 will go to the remote wire from the radio,pin 85 will go to ground, now pin 30 will go to the key side of the starter wire ,pin 87 will go to the motor side of the starter wire. And thats it that should work wait i almost forgot you should put a diode on the remote line frome the radio then it should be ok good luck. Post back and let me know if you understand all of this good luck. By the way to find a starter wire you will need to use your meter at the ignition switch and look for the wire that shows twelve volts when the key is in the crank position then it will lose power when the car is running. now you will cut that wire and try to start your car if it does not start then wire the relay as i said

yeah like I said, sorry for getting the pin wiring wrong there... but it can be done with a simple relay anyway.
My jeep is here:
www.wickedcases.com/jeep/

these power window modules are driving me batty though heh they don't work correctly.. and I need to find a way (diode probably) to use the door lock trigger and accessory wires to activate the windows, but not disable my door lock switches when the ignition is on. heh very annoying.

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-GlassWolf
Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

IS THE CHEROKEE YUOR ONLY CAR I THOUGHT I HEARD YOU TALKING BOUT ANOTHER ONE YOU HAD I COULD BE WRONG. GOOD LUCK ON YOUR PRBLEM WITH THE WINDOW MODULE. posted_image

Hey everybody thanks for all the feedback and replies. I hooked up the relay for the starter kill only for now. It doesn't work though. A friend of mine gave me 5 pin Ford relays so I used them... Well I have 86 hooked up to the remote lead for my amp (with a diode....does it matter which way the diode is facing, or the stripe on the bottom of the diode??????), 85 is ground, 87 is to the motor side of the starter wire (red w/ light green), and 30 is to the key side. It doesn't work though.... It definitely seems correct, but someone please doublecheck, and I THINK IT MIGHT BE THE WAY THE DIODE IS FACING, but I don't want to remove it until I can find out if that's it. Otherwise I will be stuck with an old kill switch.

Thanks so much!!

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1990 Ford Bronco ... Pioneer DEH-1400 ... Pioneer Micro Tweeters ... JBL 600.1 ... 2 12" JL W4-4's ...

if the diode is the wrong way then it will never triger the relay to make contact with the starter wire which means it will not work which way di d you put the stripe on the diode. the way i told you is correct it must be the diode post back please so we can figure this out

when the radio is not on the starter wire will be cut when the radio is on the starter wire will be completed this will work.if the diode is backwards the circuit will not work .on the diode you want the cathode facing the relay the cathode has a stripe on it thats the side you will face to the relay .you must have this backwards post back.

I had a ford festiva with which I used to compete.
car got totalled by a woman driving with no lights on at night back in 1996. I have pics of the system though, most of which has been moved to the Jeep now.
the alternator, 4 and 7 gauge wire, alpine 3339 and 3401, orion 2150SX and Cerwin 12" subs. all of that is going into the Jeep I think, and I'm pondering competing again, locally at least, and this time not on the pro-circuit, so it should be easier.
Anyway yeah now the Jeep is it for the moment.
www.wickedcases.com/festiva/ that was the old competition car

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-GlassWolf
Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

Hey.....thanks so much you guys for your help. My name is Chris by the way. I got the LED to work when the ignition is off, and the starter was a little bit trickier...for some reason it didnt work (at first w/the diode on the remote line) so i added a push button to enable the starter (only works when the faceplate is in) It ended up that the diode was bad somehow...it was a 3 amp epoxy rectifier diode if that helps. So now the truck wont start unless the faceplate is in, the ignition is on (the one where the fuel pump turns on; one before the key starter) and the hidden button is pressed. Pretty cool i think...Now i have to go out to the store and get some pretty wire loom and new rear shocks (ughh) to make it all look stock. Oh, to get it to finally work I used the remote line WITHOUT a diode. I tried listening to my stereo after that and my front speakers and tweeters do not work at all, and my rear speakers and subs work only.

Can anybody help explain why this happened, and what to do to fix? Was it because I used it w/o a diode.

Thanks in advance!

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1990 Ford Bronco ... Pioneer DEH-1400 ... Pioneer Micro Tweeters ... JBL 600.1 ... 2 12" JL W4-4's ...

I've been reading these posts and just wanted to let CHRIS know that if the stereo is to ever get stolen and the thief rips out the wiring ( along with the starter disable wires ) you will be SOL for starting the car. Make sure you have a back up plan of action if this is to ever occur.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA