Autoloc Solenoid Problems
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=15676
Printed Date: June 09, 2024 at 4:26 PM
Topic: Autoloc Solenoid Problems
Posted By: TML057
Subject: Autoloc Solenoid Problems
Date Posted: June 30, 2003 at 5:51 PM
I recently purchased an Autoloc shaved door handle kit. I attempted to wire it up today but ran into some problems. I have only worked on the Passanger side so far, but tried both solenoids and neither were pulling.
So far I have a fused 12Ga wire lead coming from the battery to a fuse block inside the car. There is a 30 amp fuse for the solenoid terminal. From there it goes to a momentary button (the "emergency button" that comes with the kit), which the normally closed pin is wired to the solenoid. I plan to wire these buttons inside the car so instead of having handles to pull, it is just a press of a button to open the door.
My problem is, when I press the button nothing happens. I checked the voltage and the button was getting 12.5V when closed, and when pressed the wire connecting to the solenoid terminal is getting 12.5V. The fuse isn't blown, and when I hold the solenoid in my hand and press the button I can feel a slight shock. So I'm assuming that the solenoid is getting power too, however it is not pulling. I even hooked up the other solenoid to it but I'm having the same problem with that one too.
The only part of the directions that I strayed from was that it called for 10Ga wire, where I used 12Ga. However I don't see how this would really affect the solenoids that much, especially since it appears the wire on the terminal is only 16 Ga or so.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Replies:
Posted By: BulletTooth
Date Posted: June 30, 2003 at 8:26 PM
When you install the solenoid make sure that it is very tightly pulled(i.e. the solenoid cable is very tense), because the solenoid pulls only a small distance so if it is loose it won't pull. Since you're saying that you could feel a slight shock this is the solenoid working. Otherwise if it doesn't work it might be that the solenoid is bad, but I doubt that both of them are.
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 30, 2003 at 9:50 PM
When I had shaved doors the solenoid couldn't be loose or to tight. If it was to tight the magnet wouldn't engage the coil.
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Posted By: demeanor
Date Posted: June 30, 2003 at 10:34 PM
this might be an ignorant suggestion on my behalf...but did you make sure that the solenoids were propperly grounded? if you feel a slight shock, and you read 12+ volts that means that you have 1 out of the three key elements for a circuit to work --source--load--ground. you have source...but the load couldn't be determined because of bad or no ground. i do believe that AUTOLOC systems have a single wire going to the solenoid. as far as the "emergency" switch, you could "piggy-back" a switch to be in the car,( so you would rid the need of having door handles inside the car...good choice) but make sure that you have a swich somewhere in the exterior of the car...even if you have to use hi-temp tubbing to hide it, and also have a manual way of getting into your ride...lightning might strike and shock your alarm or receiver...(stranger things have happened). sorry if all this has been figured out...and you read allll this long reply...but if it helped... thumbs up
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It's better to ask a "STUPID" question...than to know a "STUPID" answer. :-)
Posted By: TML057
Date Posted: July 01, 2003 at 5:28 AM
demeanor, that's not an ingornant question at all... actually I'm hoping this is my problem. However, it's not that I'm entirely dumb and didn't put a ground lead, but in fact the directions never call for one. The ground of the solenoid is soldered to the metal casing. This casing is attached to a metal bracket, which is attached to the car. It's kind of hard to explain without pictures, but basically everything is metal. I'm guessing autoloc figured there would be sufficient ground between the casing and the door. I would have thought so too, but I guess I'll find out if this is the problem when I work on it in a few minutes. And if that doesn't work, I'll be playing with the cable tension, however the directions call for a somewhat loose line. There is about an inch of pull from the solenoid, so you don't want it too tight that when it is pulled it is stopped b/c the latch won't go any further. Thanks for your help so far, and I'll let you know shortly if I need more! :)
Posted By: TML057
Date Posted: July 01, 2003 at 8:26 AM
ok... well that worked... kinda. I tested the solenoid that was not connected and it worked. I tested the one that was already in the passanger door, and nothing happened. So I depress the solenoid and I hear a "swish", then I feel something dripping on my hand. Apparantely, water leaked into the car through the window seals (since there was no door panel on) and got the solenoid pretty much drenched. I opened it up and it was already corroding around the positive and ground connections.... So Now I think I'm out $90 for a solenoid, and I have to re-mount the dang thing so it doesn't get wet again............. if it's not one thing, it's another eh?
Posted By: CutDog504
Date Posted: July 01, 2003 at 10:42 AM
90 dollars for a solenoid??? Try summit racing. They sell them for 35 dollars, for the heavy duty 45 pound solenoids. And as for your problem, I had the same problem as you. First off, the cable cannot be too tight. If it is, it will do exactly like you are describing. It will slightly engage, but not actually pull anything. This problem will also occur from not enough current. In my case, i had 16 guage wire ran and i found that the solenoid would only work with the engine running for some reason. I upraded to 10 guage wire and had no more problems. Also, i'd reccomend putting a 30 amp fuse on each solenoid, not one for both. I kept blowing them when wired that way. Another thing to watch for is mounting location. Like you said b4, you need to watch for water coming in, and also, you need clearance for the window to roll up and down. Not just on the solenoid either, but watch the wires. Roll the window up and down a few times after monthing the solenoid to make sure it clears everything and doesnt snag any wires or anything. Just to make sure, i left my doorpanels off for a few days to keep an eye on things. After a few minor adjustments with the cable tension, i was good to go. They've been in now for over 7 months and working like a charm. Oh, and one more thing. I noticed that when you keep activating the solenoid repeatedly, it get really hot and starts to act up. The only time i ever repatedly activated it though, was during installation and testing. So dont keep popping your doors open every few seconds to show off to yer friends, its not good for the solenoids.
Posted By: demeanor
Date Posted: July 01, 2003 at 11:27 AM
hey Tml057...i wasn't trying to say you were dumb at all. it's just little oversights happen when the excitement of performing a new install, that's all. i would never underestimate anyone in this forum...it will surprise you if you do. as far as the solenoid...90$...uuhmph...yeah, that's autoloc though, they're like the "master" brand when it comes to locks. but try taking appart as much as you can, without tearing it or being unable to put back together, and take WD40 and a tooth-brush tothe corrosion...most if not all of it should be removed by this (unless it was sitting like that for weeks; the solenoids usually have internal lubrication, after the corrosion is out of the way...re-spray with WD40, close it, and try it. if it's all back to shape...reposition in a place where it won't be so easily wet. if you have gear grease, sort of "paint" it on the solenoid, and the piston, with time it will get dirty, but water will be kept out. and if not make a shield out of plastic to act as a rain-guard for the costly-to-replace investment you now own.
like i said before, sorry if you misunderstood me before, but little things happen.
BTW...what kind of car is it?
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It's better to ask a "STUPID" question...than to know a "STUPID" answer. :-)
Posted By: TML057
Date Posted: July 01, 2003 at 7:28 PM
demeanor- no hard feelings.  I didn't think you were saying I was dumb. Someone else happened to say the same thing to me yesterday after posting, so if he didn't get to me first, then you would have been my "savior"! If anything, I think the guy who wrote the Autoloc instructions is dumb because he never said anything about the ground. however, this was my problem so that part is fixed... now the fun stuff. I'll try to get this one working just like how you said. If that doesn't do it, then I'll definately favor the summit racing solenoid since it's my passanger door, and I barely use that. Hopefully it will be a bit smaller and will be easier to locate in the door. Of course I still have to fight with the other 50lb one for my drivers side door. I have very little clearance with the window and the door panel, but I think I have and idea. I bought some flat 1.25" metal with holes. I'm going to try to make yet another bracket for solenoid to mount to! Of course it started raining today so this will be put off until tomorrow, or whenever the rain ceases. BTW, the car is a '96 Chevy Cavalier (don't laugh!).
Posted By: CutDog504
Date Posted: July 01, 2003 at 9:02 PM
A 96 Cavalier? dude, 50lb soleniods is overkill!! Sorry to be the one to tell you, but you could have bought 15lb solenoids for less than 20 bucks a peice to get the job done. Plus, they are much smaller than those soup can sized 50lb solenoids. they are about the size of a tomato paste can.
Posted By: demeanor
Date Posted: July 01, 2003 at 10:12 PM
is that metal bracket galvanized?? if possible try to avoid galvanized, it tends to rust fairly quickly(you know dissimilar metals and all), if you can't find idonized brackets from your local hobby shop, try some rustoleoum on the bracket before mounting; and after everything is the way you want it to be...grease it. it'll keep the moisture out, therefore minimizing the chances of rusting.
if the room is that critical, try the approach (pic)above... bare with me...it works. because it is 50lb of "pull" your door handle mechanism might not require all that pressure, so keeping the cable taut might not be so encouraged. drop an email if you run into complications ------------- It's better to ask a "STUPID" question...than to know a "STUPID" answer. :-)
Posted By: demeanor
Date Posted: July 01, 2003 at 10:19 PM
hope it comes out this time...if not drop me an email...this is a pretty cool pic  ------------- It's better to ask a "STUPID" question...than to know a "STUPID" answer. :-)
Posted By: TML057
Date Posted: July 02, 2003 at 8:25 AM
Thanks for all the help guys, especially you demeanor. I got the pic in the e-mail... You got mad Microsoft Paint skills yo!!!  I thought about a pulley system at first, but I did some searching and found a picture of a bracket made out of some 0.125" x 1.25" x 8" flat metal with predrilled holes. I ended up going to Home Depot to get some and I just got done with the bracket. It works great, plenty of clearance, and hopefully won't get wet, but just in case I'm going to grease it up. It's also no longer sitting with the lever up, so there is no real entry for water to go. I'll just put some liquid electrical tape over the positive terminal so it doesn't get wet. I haven't tried to save the other solenoid yet, but hopefully I can. Otherwise, I'll probably get the one from summit or I'll keep my eye on ebay. I should be getting a digital camera in the next few weeks, so keep an eye out for some pictures of my brackets. :)
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