95 Aurora remote start ?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=17066
Printed Date: July 13, 2025 at 11:36 AM
Topic: 95 Aurora remote start ?
Posted By: rbjb99
Subject: 95 Aurora remote start ?
Date Posted: August 02, 2003 at 7:22 PM
Hi, I have a remote starter I was about to install on my 95 aurora and instead of doing the bypass module I was told to cut the orange wire with the two inside and put in a resistor with same resistance as the key thingy. Question is, i notice in the 90 cad thread below it says use a relay aswell (where?) and also i cant find the orange wire with the 2 wires in it, they all seem round to me. Any help would be great. ------------- Thanks
Rod
Replies:
Posted By: 1990caddy
Date Posted: August 03, 2003 at 9:41 AM
I went through the same thing you are going through a couple of days ago, those 2 wires that are coming down from the ignition are enclosed in a shield that may be orange, or gray. I got lucky and found mine because the ignition had been replaced by Cadillac about a year ago and they didnt run those wires back through the loom from the ignition properly so they kind of stood out. If you go down to the bottom of the column under the dash, near the firewall you should see a big connector, that is where all the ignition, directional and cruise wires come to connect into the engine bay, on my Caddy the two wires from the ignition were the last 2 wires on the outside corner of the connector, you can tell they are the ones because you can see 2 small guage wires coming out of a shield, they should be the only ones that are shielded like that besides the airbag wiring but you will know those when you see them. I would imagine that your Olds and my Caddy should be pretty close in wiring because they are pretty close in age, at any rate I dont think they should be too different, And as for the relay, you should use that because you have to use the power from the alarm system when you hit the button to start it to close the relay and put the resistor into the circuit or else if you just put the resistor into the circuit alone it will always be bypassed and then anyone could hot wire the car. I hope this helps I tried not to be too confusing!! Good luck. Jack
Posted By: rbjb99
Date Posted: August 03, 2003 at 9:14 PM
Hey Jack, Your reply was a lot of help, i ended up finding those wires and you were right, they were in the same place(2 whites) but in a black casing. I am not sure on how to hook up the relay so I will probably just do the resistor between the two wires. I was told to just cut both wires and put the resistor between them, make a loop, unless you can tell me how you did the relay. Did you hook up the door locks and trunk etc aswell? was it a pain? Thanks Rod  ------------- Thanks
Rod
Posted By: 1990caddy
Date Posted: August 04, 2003 at 12:46 PM
Hey Rod, I am glad I could help, I know first hand how much of a pain hooking that stuff up can be when you don't know what you are looking for! As for hooking the resistor up to a relay, heres how I did it, I bought a 30 amp 5 terminal relay, I hooked up a 12 volt constant power to terminal 86, I cut ONE wire to the VATS system, I took the end that goes to the ignition and connected it to terminal 87a and took the other end that goes to the Passkey/VATS decoder and hooked it up to terminal 30. I then connected the resistor to terminal 87 and then spliced the other end of the resistor to the other wire for the VATS/Passkey (the one you didnt cut). Then I found a Neg(-) output from the remote start and connected that to terminal 85 on the relay. That should do it, the thing you have to check for is to make sure that the Neg output you find is only a Neg output when the remote start is activated, if it is Neg all the time that means the relay will be switched on all the time. Hopefully that wont be too confusing. The only problem with that set up that I ran into is that I had no more Neg outputs from my remote start, so I hooked terminal 85 directly to a chassis ground and took the 12 volt constant wire that goes to terminal 86 on the relay and connected it to the orange accessory wire, this way when the remote start activates it turns on the relay that way. The only thing I don't like about that is that the relay is always on when the car is running and it tends to get a little warm, I will have to keep an eye on it and let you know how I make out, hopefully you will just have a Neg output. (Man I'm a typing a lot! ) As for the keyless entrie, my trunk wires and unlock and lock wires were all to the right behind my glove box, I don't know how yours is, my unlock wire is Black, and the lock wire is Light Blue, and I believe that my trunk is Black also. It wasnt too bad to hook up, I had to use 30 amp relays for each, but it works great, if you need more detailed info on that, I will be glad to help. Let me know how things come out. Jack
Posted By: 1990caddy
Date Posted: August 04, 2003 at 12:59 PM
Oh and 1 more thing I forgot to tell you, Very important, do yourself a favor, and after everything is hooked up, take some nylon zip strips and gently tie up that relay and resistor to a wire loom or some sort of other support it'll be a little bit of a strain on the Vats wires and they are real thin and a pain in the butt becuase they like to break, cause if you don't you know what will happen!! And that would suck.
Posted By: rbjb99
Date Posted: August 12, 2003 at 9:41 PM
got it working, the company that made the starter sent me a diagram on how to use the resistor and how NOT to use their bypass module. Fine with me. Thanks for you help jack Rod ------------- Thanks
Rod
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