I have recently installed this system but have a problem. About 20 seconds after arming, the unit chirps 4 times, indicating an open zone and/or fault. I have had the module replaced by Crimestopper, have disconnected all trigger inputs and it still does this. If I bypass the shock sensor with the remote, then the unit works fine. If I unplug the shock sensor, it still returns the 4 chirps.
Anyone have any ideas?
-------------
gpforet
what does the manual (if you have it) say 4 chirps means? which zone?
-------------
Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation!
Donate to the12volt.com
All it says is that 4 chirps means that a zone is either open (as in a door or hood pin), or faulting. Am I right in thinking that hood pins trigger with ground, so when the hood is closed, they're floating?
-------------
gpforet
hmmm, do you have a domelight delay?...you didn't mention what type of car you have. If you do have the delay, maybe the alarm sees it as a door still being opened when you arm.
If that's not the case, I would try the process of elimination (depending on how easy that is).
1. Disconnect only your shock sensor (I guess like you did) and see what happens.
2. Disconnect your door inputs to the alarm ONLY, and see what happens.
3. Disconnect your hoodpin switch ONLY to see what happens.
4. Disconnect your trunk input to the alarm and see...
5. Disconnect your domelight supervision wire and see...
These are just things that I would knock out of the way first. I'm sure someone else might be able to pinpoint it quicker....
-------------
Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation!
Donate to the12volt.com
It's a 99 Ford Explorer Sport. It doesn't have a dome delay but I am tying the using the dome light wire for both door trigger and dome supervision. I'm wondering if I getting some bleed voltage from the module (dome supervision)feeding the door trigger. I'll cut the supervision lead and see if that fixes it.
-------------
gpforet
Sounds like that could be it......just out of curiosity, why aren't you using the power door lock wires for the door triggers?
-------------
Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation!
Donate to the12volt.com
Power door lock wires? For alarm triggering? Tell me more please.
-------------
gpforet
Crap, disregard what I said....I misread your post.
Anyway, for my car, I have the door trigger wire (green) from the alarm going to the car's domelight wire.
For the alarm's domelight wire, that's connected to a relay. The relay is setup like this:
85 = alarm's domelight wire
86 = 12v+
87 = ground
30 = goes to alarm's door input wire (green)
-------------
Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation!
Donate to the12volt.com
Man, I thought I was gonna learn something totally cool....LOL
My CS2003DCII has built-in relays, but I still think I'm gonna try to isolate them and if that solves the problem, a relay would do the trick in keeping the trigger at 0 volts until triggered.
Thanks for the feedback. If you can think if anything else, let me know. This has been an experience for me. I haven't touched 12 volt work since the mid 80s when Rockford Fosgate was king of the crank-it-up contests and the top cars were ONLY doing 126 dbs.
-------------
gpforet