Remote stater won’t run with AC on?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=17765
Printed Date: June 23, 2025 at 10:31 AM
Topic: Remote stater won’t run with AC on?
Posted By: goldfinger
Subject: Remote stater won’t run with AC on?
Date Posted: August 18, 2003 at 12:26 PM
I've finally got a CrimeStopper RS-800III installed and a DEI 555L bypass module. When I remote start the car with the AC off it starts and runs fine. When I remote start with the AC/Heater on it starts and dies after 1-2 seconds without a Theft light. The book for the RS-800 seems to exchange the "Accessory" and "Ignition 2" outputs at will. I was under the impression that the AC power dropped out during crank and then came back. Right now I have the Gray wire hooked into the ACC circuit and the 2nd Ignition being powered off a relay. Here's the diagram, does it matter which wire I use for ACCESSORY and Ignition 2? They seem to list them together. 
Thanks for the help.
Replies:
Posted By: Powerslave0
Date Posted: August 18, 2003 at 2:37 PM
It should run with HEAT or A/C, that's the point of having the remote starter, for either season. You just have to TURN the A/C on, and leave it on, so when you START 'er up, it's on. There is no SWITCH or SIGNAL from the starter to turn it on, just make sure it is on when you exit the vehicle. Any car with a DIAL and LEVER for heat and air settings can't be remotely switched.
For cars with Electronic systems, eletronic temp control, and all that, may have EXPENSIVE starters that allow you to remotely control the environmental settings, but as I know it, no simple REMOTE starter can do that. You just have to leave either the heat or air on when you leave, so when you REMOTELY start it, it's on.
Posted By: goldfinger
Date Posted: August 18, 2003 at 2:43 PM
Thanks for the reply Powerslave0, but I think you read my problem wrong. The problem is when I *do* turn the AC/Heat on before remote starting it won't stay running more than 1 second. I don't expect to be able to turn the AC/Heat on remotely, but I do expect the car to run when I leave them on and remote start. Like I said above, If I turn the AC/Heat off before remote starting it runs and stays running. 
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: August 18, 2003 at 4:53 PM
Are you running on voltage sense? If so, the voltage increase might not be high enough with the heater fan going.
Try a little trick here. Keep the AC off. Sit in the car and remote start it. Immediately after it starts, turn on all the crap you can----headlights, hazards, rear defogger, etc. See if the remote start shuts down.
Posted By: zargon
Date Posted: August 18, 2003 at 5:00 PM
what type of car is it . some cars will have asecond or third ignition or acc. wire to turn on the alternator, without the alternator with the air on you may have a problem, with the car remote started use a meter at the battery and check voltage it should be above 13 volts, also it will be a good idea to run in the tach mode, let me know.
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zargon ruler of estranorth
Posted By: goldfinger
Date Posted: August 18, 2003 at 5:11 PM
Chris, I tired that but the remote starter didn't shut down. I did notice that when I remote started, then took over with the key and hit the brake the clock (led) went BRIGHT as if kicking off the remote starter was a big strain off the battery. I metered the 12v leads while off and they were 11.46, while running they were 12.48. I pulled the battery off and put it on a charger to see if maybe that will help. It was reading at less than 25amps on the charger.  Hopefully that will fix the problem. The car is a 97 Grand AM. I have 2 ignition wires (Pink/White) and I have a relay to power the white. I also have the Accessory ciruit (Orange) powered off the Gray wire on the remote starter. I metered all these on a successful remote start (w/o) the AC on to make sure they were all 3 being powered up and they are. I didn't really want to run it in tach mode b/c it's working fine w/o the AC being on and running a tach wire is alot of work. If a fully charged battery fixes the problem I'll be happy. If the strain is too much for the battery later on I'll upgrade when it starts happening again. I'll report back if it's still doing it after the charge. Thanks for the replies.
Posted By: zargon
Date Posted: August 18, 2003 at 5:16 PM
I'm sure you know this but with the car running you should have atleast 13.8 volts, good luck, tach is not really all that bad except for the programing on some units, none of which i will mention. see ya
Posted By: goldfinger
Date Posted: August 18, 2003 at 9:42 PM
OK, the battery is fully charged and I just tested it with the Vent (not AC) on and it does the same thing. Starts for about 1 second (or less) then shuts off and locks the doors. I don't really think running a tach wire will help since it runs fine with the AC completely off. What could possibly cause this? I tested and the AC (orange) and 2nd Ignition (white) are being powered up. The orange drops out during the crank as it's supposed to. Once it's running you can flip the AC on and it says running just fine, but that's kind of pointless.
Posted By: floaterr
Date Posted: August 19, 2003 at 9:37 AM
First of all. When it starts with a/c on and then dies, is the alarm still putting out current on ign and acc and are the lights still on? What I am getting at is, does the alarm still think it's running or does it stop the remote start too?
If it is stopping the car then you should swich to the tach mode. It's suppose to be right there under the dash according to the info on this website.
Also the the info on THIS website your car requires 3 ign wires.
Click me: 97 Grand Am
Posted By: goldfinger
Date Posted: August 19, 2003 at 2:14 PM
When it shuts off everything turns off (lights, dash, ect) and the doors lock. It's just as if the key was turned off. Best I can tell the remote starter shuts off also, because the voltage stops. I did find the brown (3rd ignition) wire up there and asked around about it. Everyone told me that it wasn't required for a remote start install, that it only controls the radio and clock. On my sheet from WireMagic it's not even listed at all. The AC/Heat powers one just fine, and cuts out during crank just like it's supposed to. After the car is running you can turn it to AC w/o using the key and it runs fine. It only happens when you start it wthe AC already turned on. I'll look arund and see if I can find the tach wire. I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for in terms of "White PCM behind Driver's Dash". I don't have the whole dash out, just the steering column and the access panel below it. Thanks for all your help. floaterr wrote:
First of all. When it starts with a/c on and then dies, is the alarm still putting out current on ign and acc and are the lights still on? What I am getting at is, does the alarm still think it's running or does it stop the remote start too?
If it is stopping the car then you should swich to the tach mode. It's suppose to be right there under the dash according to the info on this website.
Also the the info on THIS website your car requires 3 ign wires.
Click me: 97 Grand Am
Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: August 19, 2003 at 6:12 PM
Not too much to add just I would agree find the tach wire and try that..It isn't THAT hard to find. Sounds like maybe the voltage sensing isn't seeing a big enough increase in voltage once the car is running. I've seen cars do as you mentioned before but that's usually with Design Tech remote starters where you have to cut the in gear loop..Also your clock is probably getting brighter when you step on the brake because the park lights shut off and it goes back to normal brightness instead of being controlled by the dimmer. Good luck
Posted By: floaterr
Date Posted: August 20, 2003 at 1:34 PM
If you cannot find the white wire you can run outside into the engine bay and hit one of the wire (small diameter) going into the ign coil. Then use the tach finder to verify. You might want to just run the wire through the window to see if it works instead of going through all the trouble of running it through the firewall to find it didn't help. I have just installed the same alarm (purchased from ebay $40) and used the wire I mentioned above. Usually I just go voltage sensing but I figured I'd use tach this time. Worked on the first try.
Godd luck.
Posted By: floaterr
Date Posted: August 20, 2003 at 1:38 PM
p.s. Installed an autopage 750LCd on a silverado with 2 100+ watt amps and it stoped the voltage sensing from working. If the truck didn't start the alarm thought that it did. My truck has the same engine and voltage sensing works perfectly. Think the amp load confuses the brain. Might be the same prinicple with your a/c
Good luck was ment earlier
Posted By: goldfinger
Date Posted: August 20, 2003 at 2:05 PM
Thanks for the replies guys. Looks like you were right! I hooked up the tach wire to the white wire going into the coil pack and it works like a charm now! So much for the "Smarth Tachless Mode" eh? Thanks! 
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