About stiff actuators.

I got my Actuator off e-bay. I have never installed one before and I am kind of disappointed with it. I tried installing in many locations pulling the lock rod from different angles. I finally found the best place but it still makes it difficult to flip my door lock and nearly impossible to open the door manually with a key. It is possible but I am afraid I will break off my key in the lock.

SO is this normal for cheap actuators? Does anyone know of an actuator on line that is not so still that will allow the locks to open and close manually with lots of force?

The good news is you shouldn't be using the key but once in a blue moon.

The ones I've bought are always rough, it sometimes makes it a lot worse if you connect it to the bar going to the lock lever (for your finger to unlock) and not the bar actually going to the lock mechinizim in the doors center. Introducing levels and fulcrums into the mix.

Most if not all the aftermarkets do not install a clutch type system in the gearing of the actuator like the OEM one do. Always having to fight the motor.

So no one knows where I can get a clutched type of actuator?

I installed some cheap actuators from parts express.  I dunno if they have a clutch or not, but my locks move almost like they did stock.  There is a little bit of resistance but I have no issues with opening doors or locking the locks.

Also did you try moving the actuator manually before putting it in the door?  If it is stiff before you put it in it is going to be stiff while it is in there and probably has something wrong with the gears.  You also might want to make sure your not fighting the motor when you try to open the doors (like you try to unlock and it tries to lock).

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I'm not a "professional" installer, I just do it for a hobby.

I've also used the ones from parts express. If you buy four or more, they are only like $3.50 a piece. I havent had any problems with them whatsoever. I also noticed on a few cars that I've done, that it helps out a lot to grease the lock latch really good. It has far less resistance. Another tip, if possible, try not to connect to the rod directly connected to the key lock. Try to connect to the rod either going to the interior lock lever, or to the latch itself. Even if it involves bending or cutting of the inner door skin. I usually dont look for the best place to mount it first, then connect it. I do it the other way around. I find the best place to connect it to the rods, then make room for the actuator(which a lot of times involves drilling holes or cutting a small area out of the door).

Ok so on the mounting location, I am a bit confused. I have a long rod that pushes a lever which pulls a short rod connected to the lock. I connected the actuator to the short rod closest to the lock. I tried a few locations and this seemed to be the best?

What kind of car is this? Year, make, and model. Maybe I've done a car like yours and can give you detailed intructions.

Its a 1995 Mazda MX6 anything 1993-1997 should be the same.