Print Page | Close Window

BMW Central Locking System

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=18048
Printed Date: July 23, 2025 at 7:11 AM


Topic: BMW Central Locking System

Posted By: mrnvgtr
Subject: BMW Central Locking System
Date Posted: August 25, 2003 at 12:54 PM

Long story short, some how I have a fault in my central locking system.  I have a '99 BMW M Coupe.  The problem is that I cannot lock both doors from the passenger side of my car.  I can only lock all doors from the hatch and driver side door.  The actuators have been checked by my dealer's head technician and are working properly.  The technician spent about 3 hours trying to figure out the problem last Friday and could not find it.  The microswitches that must all be depressed for the central locking system to properly function are the ones in the passenger, driver, and hatch doors, and one in the dash behind the head unit.  I checked the one behind the head unit myself because I have an aftermarket Blaubunkt unit and it is depressed like it should be.

The only thing I can think that can be causing this problem with my central locking system is the pushbutton, toggle switch, and relays I recently wired into the ignition, starter, and accessory wiring.  Here is the wiring for that project:  https://members.cox.net/mrnvgtr/SIBR.jpg  Since I almost never lock my doors from the passenger side, I don't really know when the central locking system began faulting.  The only odd wiring jobs I know of are the Blaupunkt head unit installed by the previous owner and I've checked the microswitch behind that, and the starter mod above.  I don't know much about wiring, so I need some really basic explanation of what might be wrong or how to fix this problem if anyone knows.  I can't afford to pay someone $78/hour when after the first 3 hours they can't figure it out.  Also, the technician didn't even inspect the wiring job I did.  I guess maybe he knew it wasn't a factor.  Thanks in advance for any help.

Michael




Replies:

Posted By: mrnvgtr
Date Posted: August 26, 2003 at 11:09 PM

One possible culprit could be remnents of a factory alarm that was partially removed.  I was told by someone who had a similar problem that often the alarm's hood switch is the culprit preventing the alarm from arming and locking the doors.  I know, the alarm is removed and I'm talking about a keyless entry system here, but both systems work off the central locking system.  I have to find out where this hood switch is and also ask the dealer technician if that's a possibility.

Michael





Posted By: bloodly1
Date Posted: August 26, 2003 at 11:16 PM
I have two BMW's.... older... 89 325ic and 97 328ic. I'm also an installer and I've worked on MANY BMW's in the past.... which brings me to my point. No matter what schematics or diagrams and test equipment you have... You may never truly understand the entity within. BMW's are like women and can act very estrogenic when tampered with... Mental might I sound but I cannot discount the things I've seen.

GOOD LUCK...

and the purpose of your ignition relay is?




Posted By: mrnvgtr
Date Posted: August 27, 2003 at 6:50 AM

My BMW technician said a similar thing.  He said the problem with aftermarket items is they might require a different voltage off the battery than the comparable stock component and that might throw off some system in a newer BMW.  The relays were for a pushbutton starter and power controlled via toggle switch.  The key just stays in the ignition.  Toggle on for power and depress pushbutton to start.

Michael






Print Page | Close Window