Diode for two 530ts
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=18686
Printed Date: April 23, 2024 at 12:35 PM
Topic: Diode for two 530ts
Posted By: cpgoose
Subject: Diode for two 530ts
Date Posted: September 09, 2003 at 10:00 AM
Hi, I just wanted to see if I had the correct thinking on how to wire two 530t window modules to my alarm's ground-when-armed wire (which is also connected to the starter kill relay). And by the way...is it correct that the diode is preventing current going from the starter kill relay to the alarm (and the 530ts), or do I have that backwards? 
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Replies:
Posted By: Mr.Swifty
Date Posted: September 09, 2003 at 11:06 PM
Your diagram is correct....but you are using the diode to prevent the ground signal from triggering the window modules constantly......there is enough ground signal present at all time to trigger the window modules, the diode makes eveything work correctly........same set up when using the negative when armed out for other sensors, like a radar sensor. etc.
Posted By: c2deez
Date Posted: September 09, 2003 at 11:35 PM
Your diagram is correct for isolating the starter kill relay from the window mods, but you still need 2 more diodes to completely isolate the window mods from each other(you can put the cathode "band" side of the 3 diodes together and then run a wire from the anode side to each device). To be honest, depending on the output capability of your starter kill wire, you should add a relay to increase the ground output from the alarm.
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 10, 2003 at 11:16 AM
Mr. Switfy....you said the diode is preventing the ground signal from triggering the window modules constantly. Do you mean the ground signal from the starter kill relay?
Is this how it works?....when you arm the car, the orange wire of the alarm shows ground and rolls up the 530ts, and also activates the starter kill relay (and keeps it activated). The diode prevents ground going from the relay to the 530ts, preventing them from trying to close?
c2deez: Are you saying to put a diode on each orange wire of the 530ts going to the alarm's orange wire? ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: c2deez
Date Posted: September 10, 2003 at 9:36 PM
Yes, 3 total.
Posted By: CBates
Date Posted: September 10, 2003 at 10:59 PM
I would definately isolate each component with a diode, and add a relay. Most alarms only have a 200ma ground output which is mainly designed to trigger a relay. Connect +12v to pin 85, and connect pin 86 to to your alarms orange wire. Then connect pin 30 to chasis ground, and pin 87 to your window modules and your starter kill relay. When you arm your alarm, the orange wire will trigger the relay, and send a strong ground to the starter kill and the window interface. Your windows will roll up, and all is good with the world.... Hope this helps Chris
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 11, 2003 at 8:54 AM
Thanks for the help everyone!!!
Let me just double check that I have this correct (in terms of the diodes).
The alarm arms, and sends out a ground signal on the orange wire. This activates the relay, as well as allows both window modules to close the windows. Now, Diode #1 is preventing excess ground from the starter kill relay from going out of the relay, back up the orange wire, and into the 530ts? And Diodes #2 and #3 are preventing ground from leaving the 530ts and going into the other 530t? I think that sounds about right. Are my diodes facing the correct ways?
Right now I don't have a spare relay to use for the orange wire, but I hope I'll be ok for the meantime. I guess the alarm's orange wire was enough to drive the starter kill and 1 530t module. I added the second module, and it's working ok for now....I just don't want to fry the module by mistake.
Check out the new diagram:
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Posted By: brcorp
Date Posted: September 11, 2003 at 9:22 PM
What are you doing that you need two 530's? Just curious. Is that the {H 2/4 (-) Orange Ground when armed} wire of the 530 you are connecting to? I'm getting ready to install one on my car Thanks! Bill
Posted By: CBates
Date Posted: September 11, 2003 at 9:41 PM
my quess would be 4 doors up and down.......
Posted By: CBates
Date Posted: September 11, 2003 at 9:43 PM
d**m....I mean guess, I cant spell tonight for some reason.
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 12, 2003 at 6:36 AM
I have a 2-door, with a sunroof. I added one for the 2 windows, and the second for the sunroof. I know, I know, I should have used a 529t for the sunroof, but I wanted 1-touch up/down at the switch for the sunroof, so I bought one of those instead.
CBates, does my second diagram look like what you were describing? (Diodes in the right directions?) ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: CBates
Date Posted: September 12, 2003 at 8:23 AM
Yes, your diagram is correct, just be sure to add a relay. Other than that, it looks great.
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 12, 2003 at 7:58 PM
Ok, sorry for continuing this, but I drew yet another diagram :-) This is what I'm doing: Diagram #1: I drew up a quick sketch to make sure I wired in the relay correctly. I hope I have it wired the way you were suggesting. Diagram #2: Here's my setup...I have channel 1 opening just the windows, and I have channel 5 opening the windows AND the sunroof. So, I figured you would say I'd need a relay, so I added one, along with 2 diodes. You'll see that Channel #1 is connected only to the first 530t, and that Channel #3 is connected to the relay to drive them both. I'm not sure if I need those diodes in there, though. Any more help would be great!  ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: c2deez
Date Posted: September 12, 2003 at 9:03 PM
You do realize that in this diagram the diodes are the wrong way. Other than that, I don't see a problem. Just make sure the mods that you are using can work from a momentary pulse.
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 12, 2003 at 10:21 PM
Well that would be a big "D'oh" on my part. Ooops on the diodes. I got the first diagram down pat. I have 2 questions for the second one:
1. Do I need the diodes?
2. I'm assuming I wouldn't need the relay, but it's probably better safe than sorry here, right? This is the (-) out of the alarm, and I didn't need a relay for just one 530t. But I guess now that it's driving 2, I should just use the relay?
THANKS everyone for all your help. ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: c2deez
Date Posted: September 14, 2003 at 10:31 PM
1. Yes, you NEED the diodes or you WILL have problems.
2. If I were installing this and were connecting 2 units, I would not use a relay, with 3 units I would definately use a relay(referring to the 1st diagram).
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 15, 2003 at 5:46 AM
Crap, I guess I should have been more specific on those two questions....they were more geared towards using a relay and diodes for the second diagram. I know everyone was saying to use diodes and a relay for the "ground when armed", but then that made me think if I needed one for the "AUX" wire, too.
But nonetheless, I've installed everything exactly as that diagram shows. It works very well. I got a little nervous, though, when I remotely started the car, and the windows rolled up. Then I realized that somehow the alarm reset itself, and turned the "anti-grind" feature back on. I don't know why that's considered a conflict, but when I turned it off, everything works great.
One slight thing, though, is that the 530t that opens the sunroof....it opens it like 0.5% too much. It works perfect, but I can here a very very slight amount of "motor" once it's opened all the way. Oh well, I guess that's how I've been opening it all these years anyway.
Thanks for everyone's help !!!! ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: CBates
Date Posted: September 15, 2003 at 7:05 PM
The 530's work off of a sensor that detects when the motor is under stress and cuts off, this is how it knows when to quit applying signal when the window is completely rolled up, and when something(like a head)gets in the way. Its normal to hear a little noise after you open or close a window or sunroof via remote. And like you said, its no different than keeping your finger on the button gor a couple extra seconds.
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They call it PMS because Mad Cow Disease was already taken.....
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 2:35 PM
hi there.. i'm new to the forum and am installing 2 530ts as per the instructions above. I have however run into a problem. I installed it on my driver's side window first so as not to tear the whole car apart and get lost as well as to test that everything was in order. I have the viper remote start right now without the starter kill so i integrated the 2 530ts to it. My problem is as follows: the one-touch operation works which means the 530t is doing part of its job. however, the remote function doesnt seem to work. i connected this to the aux input of the remote start box.. do i have to use a relay? also, when i start the car and wind down the windows, as soon as i remove the keys from the ignition after shutting off, the window goes back up on it's own. do i need to use a relay for the remote function and if so, can someone point me to a diagram? i bought an spdt relay but am really electronics illiterate. thanks for the help. l. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: CBates
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 5:46 PM
I'll see if I cant take a look at your setup and see if I cant come up with something. But in order to do so, I need to know the model number of your remote start, and what kind of car you have.
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They call it PMS because Mad Cow Disease was already taken.....
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 7:54 PM
ok thanks. my remote start is the viper 150hf.
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xmfan
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 8:37 PM
not sure if i can edite my previous post so i'll post this in addition to what i've already posted. From what i found when i searched, someone had similar problems with theirs rolling up when the key was taken out of the ignition. The apparent fix was that i put one more diode between the junction of the 2 530ts and the grounded when armed (H1/1 Orange) output of the remote start console. I will try this out tomorrow afternoon. Meantime, anything else that could cause this to happen? The only other thing i can think of is in regards to a post cpgoose made about having 2 530ts and using a relay and someone else said it wasnt necessary to use a relay, so i didnt. any ideas if i should absolutely use a relay and if so, where and in what form (wiring scheme.diagram, etc) thanks ------------- xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 21, 2003 at 5:56 PM
I guess it's just preference as to whether you want to use a relay. I think most people would recommend it just to be on the safe side. I used 2 relays to hook up the 2-530t modules. I used 1 relay for the orange wire (the one that makes them roll up when the car is armed), and I used another on the alarm's AUX channel. If you're installing only one 530t, then you can just hook up your alarm's AUX channel to the 530ts AUX input, but if you're hooking up 2-530ts, then I think you should use a relay. The alarm's output is strong enough to drive 1 module, but probably not two (in my opinion...I just used it from people's suggestions, plus I didn't want to fry my nice alarm). ;-)
As for the diodes, I used 3 on the orange wire. I used 1 going to the alarm's starter kill, and then 1 for each of the 530t's orange wires (so a total of 3 diodes).
Then I also used 2 diodes on the AUX wires of the 530t's.
So OVERALL, I used 5 diodes. ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 21, 2003 at 6:47 PM
cpgoose, i don't know if i should say "unfotunately" yet, but i only used 2 diodes....one for each 530t module and it works perfectly fine. i dont think i have starter kill. i have one touch control on all windows (wired to each window individually) and one touch for all windows from the driver's side master control. however, i am yet to figure out how to enable use of the remote control functions. it doesnt work on one OR two hence my asking if i need a relay. Do i need one to do this and if i do, could you sketch out the schematics for me? thanks a lot man, your info and questions asked in the past have been really useful.
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xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 22, 2003 at 6:33 AM
Ok, so when you said "it doesn't work on one OR two", you mean you can't get the remote to control the windows when you're using one or two 530ts, right?
Ok, let's say you're just using one for the meantime to make it easier. The 1-touch is working, so I'm thinking you have most of the window wires hooked up correctly. Do you have the RED / white wire of the 530t hooked up to your alarm's AUX channel? If so, are you sure you don't have it hooked up to a "delayed" AUX channel? For example, on my alarm, AUX 2 is delayed for a trunk release or something like that. So, if I had hooked it up to that...I'd have to wait 2 seconds for the delay to kick in, then the windows would roll down.
Worse comes to worse, I guess you could check the AUX wire of the alarm, and see if it's putting out a pulse. Maybe it's not?
So bottom line, if you're using 1 530t module, you can just hook it up without a relay. If you're going to use two (like I did), then I would suggest using 2 relays....one for the "ground when armed" wire, and the other for the "AUX" channel. The diagram is on the second page of this post. (KEEP IN MIND...the diodes in that diagram are reversed...the stripe side needs to go the other way....towards the alarm).
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Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 22, 2003 at 9:10 AM
exactly as you stated. the one touch controls work, and the windows auto roll up fully on arming. my 150hf has 3 channels i believe: 1 is to lock/unlock and 3 is to remote start (by pressing 1+11 together). The RED / white aux output channel is most likely a delayed but still doesnt work if i press it for 1.5s, 2s, 4.5s or even 5s. i dont get any response at all. I diode isolated the 530ts with 2 diodes facing the right direction as was instructed in one of the pages above and they work perfectly fine.I guess my last option is to check and see if i am getting any output from the aux channel. do i just set my d.m.m to ac/dc, connect the red lead to the aux output and the black to ground, and push the ch 2 button for the number of seconds each above to see that it is sending out a signal? if it is then how would i go about checking what signal/input the 530ts are looking for? this is what my remote start's manual had to say: "never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! the transistorized output can only supply 200mA of current, connecting directly to a solenoid, motor or other high current device will cause it to fail." Seeing as this is a 200mA output wire and the one i'm cnnecting it to is a lightgauge wire but is an aux input, do i need to still run a spdt relay and if so how? not knowing about relays and speaking out of my a$$, doesnt the relay receive a low current "trigger" that then tells it to supply high current 12v to the required path? if i do need to use a relay, then could you tell me what wire i should put on what terminal? as you can probably tell by now, i have never dabbled with electronics before. this is my first time and i am just learning about stuff as i go along. thanks a lot for the help and replies. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 22, 2003 at 9:59 AM
Ok (we're going to get this eventually :)
1. Since it didn't work on the 2nd channel (RED / white) of the alarm. Did you try using the 3rd channel? (is that the WHITE/ blue wire?)
2. Since the 2-530ts aren't working, I would just shoot for getting 1 of them to work, and then try for the other. If you've permanently hooked them up, then don't worry about it, but if you haven't....I'd try for 1 first.
3. Maybe you can try disconnected the orange wires. I'm pretty sure it should work without those connected...those are only for getting it to roll them up when you arm. It shouldn't interfere with getting it to work with the remote trying to roll them down.
4. In order to check the output of the alarm, I believe you would put your multimeter to DC, put the red probe to 12volts positive, and the black lead to the output of the alarm. The output of the alarm should be negative.
5. As for what the manual is saying about using this wire to drive something but a relay.......if you're only using 1 530t, then it's fine to do it without a relay. If you're using both, then refer to the diagram on page 2 of this post. Diagram #1 shows you how to hook up a relay to the orange wire from the alarm. If you're not using a starter kill relay, then disregard that wire in the diagram.
As for Diagram #2, just pay attention to "Channel 3", the one that's going to the relay. This is showing how to hook up a relay to the AUX channel from the alarm in order to make the alarm's negative output stronger....strong enough to use both 530ts.
Here's another link to that diagram....even though it's on the second page. ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 22, 2003 at 11:48 AM
Thanks for the reply cpg. i didnt try the WHITE/ blue channel3 wire because i didnt want to mess with the remote start in any way. but i wll do the following and let you know how it goes: 1. check to see if i'm getting any output at all from the brain as per your instructions. as per diagram 2, i am reading it as having to install 2 more diodes along the RED / white wires so that the signal only goes from the brain to the modules when i push channel2. i understand the need for a relay, but are the diodes actually necessary here, since the 530t's don't send any output along that line? 2. try and shoot for getting one to work first by connecting just one RED / white wire to to the brain and doing step 3. 3. try it with the orange wire disconnected. 4. if it should work with any of the scenarios above, then i'll install a relay and connect both. Unfortunately, it's monday again and i'm starting to hate school because i want to actually get this finished before resuming my schoolwork and it's interrupting. If only there were 3 weekend days instead of 2. I'll try and squeeze out some time tomorrow to get the above issues done and let you know how it goes...everything should be worked out the next time i tackle it. I really appreciate your help and patience with all my questions as a "newbie" with this. Thanks. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 22, 2003 at 12:04 PM
No problem.....I've been doing this for a while, but still consider myself new as well.....
My responses will be in bold.
lophix wrote:
Thanks for the reply cpg. i didnt try the WHITE/ blue channel3 wire because i didnt want to mess with the remote start in any way.
The only reason I suggested that was to determine whether the alarm or the window module was messing up somehow.
1. check to see if i'm getting any output at all from the brain as per your instructions.
Unless your alarm is old, I doubt the output is fried. But this is why they say to use a relay if you're connecting it to something big (like a few 530ts :-)
as per diagram 2, i am reading it as having to install 2 more diodes along the RED / white wires so that the signal only goes from the brain to the modules when i push channel2. i understand the need for a relay, but are the diodes actually necessary here, since the 530t's don't send any output along that line?
I'm not really sure if they're necessary or not. I asked the same question towards the beginning of my original post, but I was told to use them. It can't hurt. 2 diodes cost like $1.00. You said the 530t doesn't send any output along the line....but that's what the diode is preventing....any "excess" current. In other words (from what it sounds like to me), the 530t receives the signal, and to prevent some of that signal from seeping back out to the other 530t, you install diodes to prevent this.
2. try and shoot for getting one to work first by connecting just one RED / white wire to to the brain and doing step 3.
Sounds good....process of elimination is your friend.
3. try it with the orange wire disconnected.
Yes.
Hopefully this will get working before it gets cool again. (Well, I'm not sure where you are, but it's getting cooler over here).
Oooh, one more suggestion....I think in order to test your 530t....maybe you can touch it's RED / white input wire to a ground source (like a bolt or screw or something), and see if the windows roll down. In other words, you'll be duplicating the ground signal that your alarm would be sending. ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 22, 2003 at 12:11 PM
Oooh, one more suggestion....I think in order to test your 530t....maybe you can touch it's RED / white input wire to a ground source (like a bolt or screw or something), and see if the windows roll down. In other words, you'll be duplicating the ground signal that your alarm would be sending. Aah! yes! i think i understand what's wrong now. but to be sure, let me diddle with it a little and i'll definitely have it done with your suggestions! dang. didnt know electronics was this much fun. and to think i have been avoiding it all my life! ------------- xmfan
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 23, 2003 at 10:30 PM
Hey there cpgoose, well i had time today to finally check out my connections and stuff for the final try. Guess what? my aux output from the remote start IS fried! I went to a viper dealer here in town just so he could confirm that i wasn't jumping to conclusions and sure enough, it's fried. so I'm getting a new one under warranty in a little bit. Might suck because if i will most likely get a newer model as mine is over 5yrs old, and the new one will most likely come with a different harness from the one i have now meaning i'll have to rewire the remote start all over again. fun! i also tested the ground inputs from the 530ts and they were fine. oh well, now comes the waiting. thanks a whole lot man, i really really appreciate it. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 23, 2003 at 10:31 PM
Hey there cpgoose, well i had time today to finally check out my connections and stuff for the final try. Guess what? my aux output from the remote start IS fried! I went to a viper dealer here in town just so he could confirm that i wasn't jumping to conclusions and sure enough, it's fried. so I'm getting a new one under warranty in a little bit. Might suck because if i will most likely get a newer model as mine is over 5yrs old, and the new one will most likely come with a different harness from the one i have now meaning i'll have to rewire the remote start all over again. fun! i also tested the ground inputs from the 530ts and they were fine. oh well, now comes the waiting. thanks a whole lot man, i really really appreciate it. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: September 24, 2003 at 6:38 AM
WOW! That's nuts. I really thought that would have been a last resort. The store that's giving you a new one, is it the same place wher eyou bought it 5 years ago? I'm just curious. I bought mine used, and it acts up sometimes, but I don't have a receipt or anything.
But cool, I'm glad you got it figured out. It's going to be a pain, but at least you pinpointed the problem. Let me know how it goes. ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation! Donate to the12volt.com
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 24, 2003 at 9:07 AM
actually i bought it on ebay last november from a guy in indiana. he used to be a dei installer and so i called him yesterday and he sent me a receipt saying he sold it to me and installed it on my car even though someone else did. the dealer i went to yesterday said he would send it out for me without a receipt. I am most likely going to get pro-rated and will cost me about $40-50 bucks for a brand new unit which still isn't too bad. if yours is acting up try getting a dealer to work with you in getting a new one under warranty that you got it out of state. they might help you out.
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xmfan
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: September 24, 2003 at 11:14 AM
as a follow up, i calle dei directly and was told that they would send me a new, current unit for free. all i had to do was send the brain/remote, receipt and contact info. the charge above was if i went through the dealer.
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xmfan
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: October 17, 2003 at 11:01 PM
hey there cpgoose..just following up on the 530t issues. I finally shipped my remote start last friday and this wednesday, i received 2 (TWO) replacement and new model remote start systems!! Unfortunately i had to rewire the car again and even though I wasn't the one that installed it the first time and didnt think I could do it, i went ahead none the less to try and locate all the wires this evening and before I knew it, I was done! completely hooked up in 1hr 25mins. to say that i am elated would be an understatement. and the best of all, I connected the RED / white from the aux2 to one of the 530ts and voila! remote controlled windows. Only problem is when i attempted to remote start, it kept cranking the starter and so i cut it off. everything else works. Unfortunately it was dark when I was done and couldnt even see the wires not to talk of the temperature falling. At least I know i got most of it done. Tomorrow after fixing the remote start problem, I will solder all the connections and tidy up and be ready for the winter! I am still contemplating not using a relay (even though I have 4 sitting right beside me!) I still havent seen a justification to get one hooked up to connect the two 530ts. I also have only 1 diode hooked up to the 2 530ts...hopefully i'm okay with all this. Thanks for the help man!
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xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 8:44 AM
WOW, that's awesome. I'm glad that all worked out for you. TWO units? You mean you sent them a busted unit, and they sent you two free ones? Wanna sell one? Have you figured out the cranking problem yet? Yea, and about the relays, I was never really sure because some people said to use it, and others said I didn't need to....so I stuck to the cautious side and used them anyway. Let me know how it's going....what model unit did they send? I guess it wasn't a 791xv :-) ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
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Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 9:07 AM
yeah they sent me 2 units free. fortunately (or unfortunately?) They declined to send me the 790 :( i really tried and put pressure on them, flirted, ...name it. but they said they just couldnt so i left it at that. They sent me 2 150esp. One of them had the siren (514N?) with it too, so that got me wondering what they were thinking. I also used a relay for the 530ts like you did :) The cranking problem was because the brain hadn't learnt the tach yet. everything's perfect now. my gf wanted a remote start in her camaro. so i went ahead an installed the second one in her car. needless to say, i feel like i have been doing this for years!! it came so naturally and took me about 4hours to install hers. she has a 5spd so i'm still working on the neutral safety. her VATS was a kind of pain though but i got it worked out. Now I have both a nissan and a camaro under my belt :) both 5speeds. Mine is safe; hers isnt yet. I have a question: mine is currently on a delay..i have to push the button for 1.3s and 3s... like that. In the manual, it says it can be changed to "instant validity"..i haven't tried this yet, but will it still function the same way? unfortunately my gf has hijacked my car because of the windows and stuff :) so i can't really check it out till later tonight or tomorrow. if yours is acting up, pm me and i'll let you know how you can send it in for replacement. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 9:10 AM
yeah they sent me 2 units free. fortunately (or unfortunately?) They declined to send me the 790 :( i really tried and put pressure on them, flirted, ...name it. but they said they just couldnt so i left it at that. They sent me 2 150esp. One of them had the siren (514N?) with it too, so that got me wondering what they were thinking. I also used a relay for the 530ts like you did :) The cranking problem was because the brain hadn't learnt the tach yet. everything's perfect now. my gf wanted a remote start in her camaro. so i went ahead an installed the second one in her car. needless to say, i feel like i have been doing this for years!! it came so naturally and took me about 4hours to install hers. she has a 5spd so i'm still working on the neutral safety. her VATS was a kind of pain though but i got it worked out. Now I have both a nissan and a camaro under my belt :) both 5speeds. Mine is safe; hers isnt yet. I have a question: mine is currently on a delay..i have to push the button for 1.3s and 3s... like that. In the manual, it says it can be changed to "instant validity"..i haven't tried this yet, but will it still function the same way? unfortunately my gf has hijacked my car because of the windows and stuff :) so i can't really check it out till later tonight or tomorrow. if yours is acting up, pm me and i'll let you know how you can send it in for replacement. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 9:30 AM
Well, two new 150esps is pretty cool. Not bad at all.
As for your question: (Assuming you have the 3-button remote), you mean you have to hit the button for 1 second and then 3 seconds, and then the windows will activate? That's weird....I guess it's a safety feature if you had that hooked up to the remote start, maybe. Yea, I would program it for "instant validity" (if it's for your windows). That way it will work right off the bat.
Now I have a question for you, since you're the "manual" guru. I've never done a manual (I barely know how to drive them), but I've done quite a few automatics. What did you have to do to make it "safe"? I'm assuming it has to be in neutral, and maybe with the parking brake on? Do you think that's enough in your opinion? Again, I don't know much about manuals. I don't think the 150esp is a "manual-specific" alarm and remote start, so you were able to make it "watch" for your safety features before remote starting? I just ask because a friend of mine has a manual and wants a remote start, but doesn't think it's safe. Just wanted to know your thoughts.
You have a PM :-) ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation! Donate to the12volt.com
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 11:26 AM
Okay most people dont know this but a lot of cars come with a neutral safety switch/wire that runs to the ecu. In connection with this wire is another wire that also goes to the ecu that has to do with "telling" when the car is in reverse and to throw on the brake lights. I was really lucky with my car and the viper as well. The 150esp has a neutral safety input wire that looks for a ground signal in order to activate the remote start. If it doesnt get a ground from that wire, it won't remote start. My nissan maxima (and all the others from 89 - 04....installers, take note*) ALL have a neutral safety wire that runs to the ecu. Most are in the same location. *I am not too sure but I believe it is the same case with altimas as well.* In my car, this wire tests ground when in neutral, and 4-5v when in gear. Thus, it's a "plug-n-play" thing for me. :) There is another VERY UNORTHODOX method that could be used, although it will require the use of a relay. It involves getting a spring and wrapping it around the gear shifter but not touching the shifter while in neutral. This spring is connected to the relay which looks for a ground signal in order to send out a voltage input to the brain. The spring is used because it is flexible and can be used in everyday driving without hinderance. you will also need a metal (or piece of wire hanger) to hold it rigid and steady and screw it in using plastic. I found it on some website and as unorthodox as it sounds, it does work! and is cheap to make too! I have a habit of leaving my car in neutral and only leave it in gear when i am on a VERY steep slope which is rare. If your friend has a habit of leaving his car in gear, I'd tell him to practice not leaving it in gear as a conscious effort for about a month before getting a remote start. btw what kind of car does he have? the fsm should usually tell if the neutral wire exists or not. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 11:33 AM
(She) has a Jeep wrangler. Thanks for the explanation...I'm starting to understand what that Neutral Safety Wire was from the remote starters that I kept ignoring  It sounds like a better method than the relay and spring.
Again, I don't know much about manuals...but don't you need to hold in the clutch when you start the car? I'm wondering if this is the "clutch bypass" that people talk about.
I wonder if there is also a similar wire for the e-brake. Maybe the remote start could look for that wire as well...to make it more secure. She has a pretty brand new Wrangler, so I'm sure it would take a lot of convincing :-) ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation! Donate to the12volt.com
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 12:38 PM
yeah you need to bypass the clutch. That's relatively easy on most cars that have 2 wires running to the switch behind cut one wire and test to see if it starts without depressing the clutch. If it doesn't, connect both wires and try it. If it doesn't then hmm...you'll need to do a lot more work :) I've only done it on 2 cars and both needed both wires to be connected together. I am not really sure about the e-brake although I make it a point to park with it and so does my gf so I didnt wire anything there. besides...even with the e-brake engaged, a torque-y car should be able to move. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 1:06 PM
Ok, so there are two wires (#1 and #2), and you cut #1. If the car still starts, you said to connect both wires and try it. What do you mean by both wires?....Connect #1 and #2 together? ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation! Donate to the12volt.com
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: October 21, 2003 at 2:54 PM
ok normally to start a manual trans. car, you have to press the clutch pedal. pressing the pedal either closes the switch or opens the switch and since there are only 2 wires, cutting one of them and then trying to start without pressing the clutch will determine if you have bypassed it (opening the switch). If it doesnt start, then unplug the harness (there will most likely be a plug harness that both wires go into that connects to the clutch switch) and create a connection between both terminals by running a jumper to both points. (same as splicing both wires - closing the switch) then try it again. most times, it should now start without the clutch being pressed. If both methods dont work...then it's a more complicated issue :) but for a jeep, i'd bet it is one of the above. ------------- xmfan
Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: October 22, 2003 at 10:02 AM
ahhh, I gotcha now...thanks. When you bypassed the clutch, did you use a relay that was maybe activated by the remote starter? ------------- Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation! Donate to the12volt.com
Posted By: lophix
Date Posted: October 22, 2003 at 11:03 AM
yeah you have to use a relay otherwise you'll lose the cruise control function. btw, pm me your email address so i can send you that stuff we spoke about. also what harness did you need? all of them? if they are identical to the ones in the 150esp installation manual, let me know in the pm :) ------------- xmfan
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