Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Honda Accord alarm problems

Hello, I have a Honda Accord Areodeck 1996 (European model). The car was fitted with a Serpi Star GR44 alarm and MK 125 immobiliser. The alarm had packed up, but the immobilser worked OK with a 'touch key'. I brought a new alarm with remote locking etc and wanted to fit this. I took out all the wiring of the old Serpi Star items and joined original wires which had been cut from its installation. A RED / white wire - ignition I think, a yellow/white wire, (same block as indicators & park light) a yellow/black wire in door sill - fuel pump?
I fitted the new alarm - which seems to work OK, but in the process of taking out the old and fitting the new alarm, the battery had discharged! also when I used jump leads , the starter turns the engine over OK but it will not start. The car used to start easily before...What have I done? any ideas?.
I am getting a wiring diagram from Honda, hopefully I can trace a possible missed wire or something...
Thanks

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Tim Taylor

Sounds like the starter kill ( immobilizer ) is a normally open type. Try reconnecting the starter wire to each other instead of through the immobilizer.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Also, may be that the original installer interrupted the ignition wire instead of the starter wire; actually many immobilizer systems cut ign as well as start. If your ign wire is dropping out, your fuel pump is not getting power and therefore will keep turning over, but never start.

Is the fuel pump wire hooked up correctly? Did you check ALL fuses? It could just be something as simple as the fuel pump fuse

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Cruisin Security And Sounds

Thanks for for all your suggestions. I found the problem - 2 blown fuses and a dud battery. Now have a new battery, new fuses and alarm is working just fine!

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Tim Taylor

Hello, I'm after some advice.
I have fitted an alarm to my Honda Accord and works just fine. There is an option in the alarm to change the Starter Kill trigger, it can either be triggered when the ignition switch is turned to ACC or when the alarm is armed, i.e. the coil in the starter kill relay is constantly energised - would this not drain the car's battery over a period of time when armed?

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Tim Taylor

Someboady correct me if I'm wrong (I know you will ;) )

Most of the time when you go to "crank" the car over the ACC wire does NOT have power (cuts out). So if you do hook the starter kill relay to this wire the car will never start. There are 2 methods of installing starter kills.

1 - Which is suppose to be the better and correct method is hooking up pin 85 to the IGN wire and pin 86 to the alm output. This way the relay only energizes if the ign swtich is moved to the "ign or crank" positions AND the alm is outputing. The relay won't get + power till then.

2 - Not liked as much. COnnecting pin 85 to the "switch" side of the start wire itself (also jumpered to 30) and 86 going to the alm. In this method the relay get it's + from the starter wire itself and only flips when the key is turned to the "crank" position AND the alm is outputing.

floaterr is correct. Relays draw about 1/10 amp. Having relay(s) stay on when the car is off is bad.

You might get away with one relay wired like that if your battery is good, the weather is warm, and you drive your car every day.....but remove any one of those factors and your car is going to be dead one day.

As far as floaterr's starter kill scenarios, either method will work just fine. #1 is indeed the more popular method, but that is probably because it's how the alarm's instructions say to do it, and some alarms even come pre-wired that way.

I've been using option two from floaters reply... I haven't had any issues and find it easier.... so there. Six to one, half dozen to the other. posted_image

Hello anybody out there, I need some help & advice...
I have fitted an alarm to my car which works great, the only gripe is when I lock or unlock the car using the remote, the siren makes a load 'chirp' - once when locked, twice when unlocked.
There is a 'positive pulse' (approx 0.5 sec's) from the alarm to course this.
Is it possible to fit a component or device between the alarm and siren which only gives a supply when the supply is constant (i.e. the alarm is triggered) and NOT a supply when pulsed (when locking with remote).
Would some kind of timer work?
Many thanks.

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Tim Taylor

im not sure what alarm you have, but most of them have programmable options like silent arm/disarm, etc. look through your owners manual for a section on this. it is usually performed through a series of ignition on/off cycles and flipping the valet/override switch on and off a given number of times.

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oh, god... what did i do now??

Hello
Thanks for your response. There is an option to silent arm, but a sequence of buttons have to be pressed on the remote for this to work - which is not ideal, I just want to press one button and that's it!, also when a silent arm is performed, not all the triggers are armed.
Ant suggestions anyone??

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Tim Taylor

setup a relay circuit that works on a delay, something that won't be triggered by the 1/2 second pulses.

Thanks yakky,
How would I setup a circuit like this?
I have a basic understanding how relays work but I'm not sure how to create a delay...

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Tim Taylor

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=6887&KW=delay

That thread has some details. Let me know what values you end up using, I'm going to do the same with my siren, except I want to soften the chirps so I'll be adding a seperate lead with some resisitors to power the siren at low volume.

Thanks yakky,
I had a look at the link, but its in a electronic language I don't understand.
I know its a combination of relay, resistor(s) & capacity, (values?) but how they connect together and connect in the alarm/siren circuit, I have not got a clue. I think I need to see a sketch of how the components go together for me to understand whats going on....
Many thanks.

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Tim Taylor

timtay wrote:

Hello
Thanks for your response. There is an option to silent arm, but a sequence of buttons have to be pressed on the remote for this to work - which is not ideal, I just want to press one button and that's it!, also when a silent arm is performed, not all the triggers are armed.
Ant suggestions anyone??

What alarm model is it? What he was getting at is most alarms have in the brain programming sequence a way to disable the chirps. The remote is just a temp bypass, he was speaking of less temporary method.

Hello, I need help and advice - in layman's terms please.
I want to trigger a relay coil only when there is positive supply (+12V) of 1-2 sec or longer or when the supply is constant. But to ignore a pulse of 0.5sec.
I've searched through the forums, and I think it can be achived by using a capcitor and resistor - but how they are connected up and their values I don't have a clue...
Can anyone help?

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Tim Taylor

use a resistor to slow the charge to the cap. prob. start with low ohm resistor ...just experiment to get the time right maybe 10ohm and 100uf

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dont be a pet monkey ..use your dmm

Thanks for your suggestions, but how do I connect up the capacitor and resistor? in series or in parallel, inline or does one side of the capacitor connect to ground?
Anymore suggestions would be grateful...
Thanks

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Tim Taylor

the problem with doing these is the relay, the resistance of a relay coil is soo low that if you put it in parallel with the cap it will drain it very fast,

What do you want this relay to do after it is turned on? stay on or shut off?

Thanks xetmes...
I have a car alarm, and I want to 'kill' the chirp from the siren when the car is locked or unlocked via the remote, but not kill the siren when the alarm is triggered.
There is a 0.5sec +ve pulse to the siren, one pulse when locking & 2 pulses when unlocking. Unfortunatly the alarm (Magicar FAI-410) does not have the option to programme to achieve a silent arm.
Hopefully you could suggest a solution?
Many thanks.

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Tim Taylor

Does your alarm have an option to pulse the locks longer? If so try changing that and hooking up a relay as so:

85: - Lock Output (If your using + locks then ground 86)
86: Constant 12v
30: Siren output from alarm
87a: To siren
87: Not used

Basically all this does is anytime you lock or unlock the relay energizes and opens the circuit to the siren, ie no siren. When the relay isn't energized, the siren gets it's normal flow. I've never tried this but it sounds pretty good in theory and at 7 in the morning..You might also want to add a diode so that it only opens when the lock pulse is coming from the module, so that a thief couldn't just hold your unlock switch in the car and have the siren disabled. If your unit doesn't have longer pulsing locks you could still try it but I don't think it will hold the relay open long enough to kill the siren. Good luck

Thanks 'NowYaKnow'
The alarm does have an option to give a 4sec pluse when locking or unlocking so your suggestion sounds like it could work. But would the relay open in time to prevent the pulse to the siren?
Also, where would I fit the diode?
Many thanks.

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Tim Taylor

thats a good idea NowYaKnow, i dont know about running the actuators that long though... Do you have the door lock option all hooked up? Might be able to use the short output of the door lock to trigger a circuit to delay by say 5 sec or so...

Hello, can anyone help me out there...
I have an alarm (Magicar FAI 410) which has negative outputs for door lock/unlock. Also I have installed a 4 window closing module (also Magicar) triggered by the negative door lock output. Everything works just fine.
I now want the negative outputs for door lock/unlock to energise a coil of a relay. I have used two diodes to isolate each of the outputs to produce a common negative output (to pin 85, +12V to pin 86) to break the circuit to the siren to kill the 'chirp' when locking & unlocking doors. This seems to work OK, the alarm arms, lights flashed & NO 'chirp' from the siren - Great!, but now the doors don't lock or unlock...What's happened, I can't see why this set-up doesn't work?
Please help, any suggestions?

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Tim Taylor