2000 Taurus
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=19603
Printed Date: June 21, 2025 at 11:07 PM
Topic: 2000 Taurus
Posted By: oakley
Subject: 2000 Taurus
Date Posted: October 02, 2003 at 5:13 PM
I just purchased an Autopage RS-850LCD and I am about to install it in my 2000 Taurus. I am just not clear what kind of door locks I have. Do I have the 5 wire or the 3 door locks? Do I need relays or not? What door lock wires do I use from my remote start...Negative or positive? Please, I need to be steered in the right direction. Thanks for all your help in advance. Here is the link to my wire diagram. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=2000&make=Ford&model=Taurus&ID=17859&type=Alarm Steve
Replies:
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: October 02, 2003 at 7:36 PM
DO youhave factory keyless entry? If yes, your locks are negative trigger and no relays are required.
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 02, 2003 at 7:48 PM
Yes I have keyless entry with the alarm. So I hook up the negative trigger from the unit to the lock and unlock wires in the car??
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: October 02, 2003 at 9:56 PM
Negative trigger.
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Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 02, 2003 at 10:27 PM
Now if I understand this correctly, I must find the BLACK/ orange wire which controls the door ajar indicator and cut it to diode isolate it from the cluster. Does this mean.....Cut the wire > solder a diode in-line(So I am re-joining the line with the diode in the middle?). Then where does my wire go from my security unit?? Please help! Thanks! Steve
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 03, 2003 at 11:26 PM
You would tie into the side of the diode that is NOT the end that's going to the cluster.
Or, simply cut the trigger wire in half, connect the diode inline, and then test each end of the diode for door trigger, with the ignition key both on and off. The side that tests properly is the one you want.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 03, 2003 at 11:30 PM
No, he asked if you have factory keyless entry. Also, does your car have the keypad above the driver's outside door handle?
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 04, 2003 at 10:19 AM
Yes I have the keyless pad on the door. And just to make things clear....I have factory keyless entry with the factory alarm but I am adding the Autopage remote start/alarm combo. So to sum things up, all I need to do is hook up the negative trigger to my lock and unlock wires, NO relays required. Then hook up the diode inline of the door ajar wire isolating the cluster and then tap into the wire with the door pin trigger from my remote start. Is this all correct?? Thanks everyone for helping me out. This site is great! Steve
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 08, 2003 at 2:35 PM
Hi, I'm about to do a remote car starter/alarm install in my 2000 Taurus and noticed it calls for the Tan / YELLOW wire for the tach at the PCM. I went looking and discovered 2 of them at the PCM. Which one is it? Are they the same wire? Any help would be great. Also could someone tell me excacly where the window up/down wires are located? It says kick panel but there is like a thousand same color wires in there. Thanks!
Posted By: floaterr
Date Posted: October 08, 2003 at 2:45 PM
Personally I get the window wires in the door and leave the module in there. However I mostly do Chevy's and the lock button panel pulls right off exposing everything. I don't know about a Tarus. Leave it to Ford to have the same color wires in the same bundle. Just probe as per instructions and you should find it.
Don't know about the tach wire. Sorry.
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 09, 2003 at 6:54 PM
Hi, I am in the middle of a car starter/alarm install and I can't seem to find a rubber gromet to pass the tach and hood pin wires through my 2000 Ford Taurus. Anybody know where one is located?? I am in desperate need to know. I thank you for any help ahead of time.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 09, 2003 at 7:53 PM
You can get tach inside that car.
Directly above the parking brake pedal, you can see two black plastic squares, each with a gold bolt in the middle, each with wires coming out. Tach is tan / YELLOW coming out of one of those.
As for getting wires out underhood, it kinda sucks. There is a factory rubber grommet, very low, in the very center of the firewall. If you reach down there from under the hood, you will probably be able to feel it. The other side of the grommet goes directly behind the heater ducts where you can't reach it---you'll have to feed a lot of the wire in until it comes out somewhere you can grab it.
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 10, 2003 at 5:37 PM
I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and I just installed an Autopage alarm/starter. There is only one wire for accessory from the module, so I hooked it up to the one that tested positive for the blower. Now the problem that I am having is that my car is equipped with Climate control and that doesn't come on with the blower motor. Do I have to relay to my second accesssory wire? If so how do I hook up the relay? Also, for my door pins, I used the "common" (can someone confirm the color of this wire) wire and when I open the door it does not trigger the alarm. It says I must cut and diode the factory wire and isolate it from the cluster. WHOA! That's where I get confused. I did just that, but I'm not really sure if I have the diode on the right way and on what side do I hook up my wire from my module? Please help! and thanks a million! https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=2000&make=Ford&model=Taurus&ID=17859&type=Alarm
Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: October 10, 2003 at 7:54 PM
There are two things you can do. You can either take the accesry wire from the current accesorry relay and take another wire and hook it up to second accesory from the first relay. These relays can handle it. Or you can take another relay and here is how you hook it up. If you buy a DIRECTED relay here's is how it goes. Take the red wire and hook it up to the accesory input from the alarm, take the black and ground it on a GOOD ground, take the brown wire and hook it up to a HIGH CURRENT 12volt supply (usually the 12volt coming to the key), and finally take yellow wire and hook it up to the accesory. have q's you can email me personally, I will answer any q you have.
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Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 10, 2003 at 8:37 PM
Ok sorry but I totally didn't get that. Is there a link to a diagram somewhere? Could I just use my second ign wire from the module which I am not using? I don't see why not. and I am still having trouble with the door pins. Any thoughts??? Thanks!
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 10, 2003 at 8:43 PM
oakley wrote:
Ok sorry but I totally didn't get that. Is there a link to a diagram somewhere? Oh I don't have a relay for the first acc wire. Could I just use my second ign wire from the module which I am not using? I don't see why not. and I am still having trouble with the door pins. Any thoughts??? Thanks!
Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: October 11, 2003 at 6:41 AM
Yes if you have a left over ignition wire you can use it for accesorry. The two supplies ignition wire and the accesory wire coming from the brain all do the same thing. They provide 12volts when the remote start sequence is initiated. Yes that is true, I did not know you have a left over iginition wire. Just hook that one up and that should solve the problem. Let me know what happens.
------------- 2005 Toyota Corolla S
1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 11, 2003 at 3:34 PM
The only difference between the ignition and the accessory outputs, is that ignition stays on all the way through cranking, whereas accessory drops out during cranking. The Taurus is a fairly simple car, electrically speaking, and the car won't mind if one of the accessory wires stays on while cranking. So go ahead and use the extra ignition output you have.
As for the door trigger, I've never done a full alarm on a Taurus, so I really don't know.
But isn't there a position on the dash dimmer that turns on the domelight? That means, most likely, that there is a domelight wire coming out of the dimmer switch.
Sometimes Ford domelight wires can false after a while, but don't worry about that just yet. Go to the dimmer switch, test all the wires for door trigger, and make a temporary connection. Close the car and leave it armed for an hour or so....if it doesn't false by then you should be okay. If it does false, there are ways to get around this fairly easily, with one relay.
The domelight information I have for a Taurus is blue/black, positive......also listed as being in a plug at the top of the fusebox.
Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: October 11, 2003 at 7:07 PM
On that particular alrm all the ignition and accesory wires stay energized throughout the whole remote start process. It does not matter in this case.
------------- 2005 Toyota Corolla S
1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 11, 2003 at 8:13 PM
What do you mean by Ford domelight wires can false after a while??? Thanks for all the help. I hooked up the ign wire to the second acc and it's working just great! I will try to hook that wire up to the domelight wire and let you know.
Posted By: misterjimbo
Date Posted: October 11, 2003 at 11:34 PM
if you look above the parking brake there are two bundles of wire there is always one that is a little easier to grab... cut the tape and dig in bacause i have done avoer 30 of them and it is always barried in the back, but it is there. wish i could send you a pic of it because it is really hard to explain sorry
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Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 12, 2003 at 7:34 AM
oakley, did you read my response to your older post? I already told you what misterjimbo did.
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 12, 2003 at 11:08 AM
misterjimbo....What is barried in the back? What am I looking for?
Posted By: misterjimbo
Date Posted: October 12, 2003 at 6:26 PM
the tan yellow tach wire is there. Sorry for repeating you chris... you had a better description of it too.
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Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 3:17 PM
I just installed an Autopage 850-LCD remote start alarm in my 2000 Taurus. At first everything worked great. It started no problem and everything was a go. Then I drove away and when I came came back tried to remote start again and it wouldn't crank or nothing. I tried several times that day. I noticed the anti-Theft light on the dash flashing really fast. I figured it was the DEI module so I make sure everything was cool. The next day I came out and it started with the remote start. Then a few hours later the Anti-Theft light flashing again and would not start. Has anybody else encountered this? On my remote start module I have a wire for factory alarm disarm and arm. I have the disarm hooked up only because I didn't want the factory alarm at all. It is hooked up to the Pink/White wire. I also noticed on my car diagram I have a "DISARM DEFEAT" wire pink orange. What is this wire? Should it be hooked up? Any help would be great. Thanks!
Posted By: zargon
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 3:46 PM
what dei mod did you use 555f or 555u, also what wire did you hook the by pass on your alarm?
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Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 4:00 PM
I used the DEI-555U and I hooked up the Blue(-) wire to the yellow wire of my remote start (-) 200mA Ign3 output. This wire provides a 200mA(-) ground output that becomes active 4 seconds before the remote start unit initialize, and remains grounded while running. It said: Connect to wire from the bypass unit.
Posted By: whitey
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 4:05 PM
I have noticed before on certain fords that the key doesn't like to transmit in the 555U when it is cold. Also check your placement of the 555U ring. The disarm defeat is not neaded. It is used when install a OEM upgrade alarm to a factory keyless entry ex: Viper 700T
Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 6:12 PM
I would think you didn't secure your ring around the ignition cylinder good enough. I always make sure they are tight around and use wire ties to help secure them to whatever you can. Check that see what happens.
Posted By: oakley
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 7:05 PM
I checked my ring....It can't move. I have electrical tape wrapped around it over and over very tight. And it's cold out right now and it works fine. I don't understand what could be wrong! Also all my connections are soldered. I have the keypad on the door. That has nothing to do with it would it?
Posted By: misterjimbo
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 9:41 PM
keypad has nothing to do with the PATS aka theft light. i use audiovox ASTCBM modules for my ford installs and they are made in the same factory as the 555u they just have a different vase. i have not had any cold start concerns and i am in michigan. are you trying to r/s the car with a key in the ignition? many fords can only read one key at a time. If you want to make sure it is the 555u take the key out of the 555u and put it in the ignition, do not turn it (if it is cut to your ignition) and try r/s the car.
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Posted By: oakley20
Date Posted: October 15, 2003 at 6:49 AM
K I think I have it somewhat pin pointed. My car started all day yesterday with the remote start. I went out this morning and the it wouldn't crank and once again the anti-theft light was flashing on the dash. So I decided to insert my key (but not turn it) and try the remote start again so it would get the signal from the key I inserted. AND IT WORKED! So....I fiddled with the ring everywhich way which did nothing! So is it the DEI-555U or the starter putting out the signal when it wants? Please someone....This is driving me crazy! Thank you! ------------- 2000 Ford Taurus SEL
Posted By: oakley3
Date Posted: October 15, 2003 at 3:38 PM
Everything is working great now in my 2000 Ford Taurus. The only thing left is to hook up the wire for the door pins fo rthe alarm. This is the diagram someone sent me. Now I tried the common wire as it explains below but it didn't work. So can I hook it up to the domelight wire? If so, I guess I hook up my "Positive Door Switch Sensing Input"? and should I use a relay? I heard they false out or something. Not even sure what that means. Is there a diagram of this somewhere? Thanks for the help. ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION | | 12V|lt. GREEN/ purple |+ |ignition harness | | STARTER|RED / lt. blue |+ |ignition harness | | IGNITION|RED / lt. green |+ |ignition harness | | ACCESSORY|gray / YELLOW |+ |ignition harness | | SECOND ACCESSORY|BLACK/ lt. green |+ |ignition harness | | POWER LOCK|pink / YELLOW |- |26 pin plug at GEM *1 | | POWER UNLOCK|pink/ lt. green |- |26 pin plug at GEM *1 | | LOCK MOTOR|pink/black | |top plug of fusebox | | UNLOCK MOTOR|RED / white | |top plug of fusebox | | DISARM DEFEAT|pink/orange | |top plug of fusebox | | PARKING LIGHTS +|brown | |headlight switch or fusebox | | HEADLIGHTS|RED / yellow *2 |- |headlight switch | | DOOR TRIGGER|BLACK/ orange *3 |- |20 pin plug at GEM *1 | | DOME SUPERVISION|BLACK/ lt. blue |+ |top plug of fusebox | | TRUNK/HATCH PIN|*4 | | | | HOOD PIN|tan/lt. green |- |26 pin plug at GEM *1 | |TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|*5 | | | |FCTRY ALRM DISARM|pink/white |- |26 pin plug at GEM *1 | | TACHOMETER|tan / YELLOW | |PCM *6 | | SPEED SENSE|gray/black | |12 pin plug at GEM *1 | | BRAKE WIRE|RED / lt. green |+ |brake pedal switch | | HORN TRIGGER|purple or blue |- |steering column | | WIPERS|white(L), blu/org(H)|+ |wiper motor | | LF WINDOW UP/DN|wht/blk - org/wht |A |drivers window motor | | RF WINDOW UP/DN|wht/yel - yel/red |A |drivers switch or kick panel| | LR WINDOW UP/DN|yel/lt blu - gry/org|A |drivers switch or kick panel| | RR WINDOW UP/DN|yel/blk - RED / blk |A |drivers switch or kick panel| | RADIO 12V| | | | | RADIO GROUND| | | | | RADIO SWITCH| | | | | RADIO ILLUMINATE| | | | | POWER ANTENNA|RED / pink | |rear control unit *7 | | LF SPEAKER|lt blu/wh-org/lt grn| |rear control unit or speaker| | RF SPEAKER|grn/org - wht/lt grn| |rear control unit or speaker| | LR SPEAKER|tan/yel - gry/lt blu| |rear control unit or speaker| | RR SPEAKER|brn/pnk - org/red | |rear control unit or speaker| Notes: NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System). Use DEI module 555U to over-ride during remote start. *1 The GEM module is to the left of the steering column. *2 The headlights are high current negative. Must use a relay. *3 This wire controls the door ajar indicator on the dash, must cut the wire and diode isolate it from the instrument cluster. Can also use individual negative door trigger wires in the 26 pin plug at the GEM. They are: yellow/black (LF), gray/red (RF), lt. GREEN/ YELLOW (LR), and pink/lt blue (RR). *4 On the sedans use BLACK/ pink (-) at the light in the trunk. On the wagons use WHITE/ purple (-) in the 26 pin plug at the GEM. *5 With keyless entry it is purple / YELLOW (-) at the switch. Without keyless entry it is gray/red (+) at the switch. On the wagon, to unlock just the rear hatch use yellow/lt. green (-) in the 26 pin plug at the GEM. *6 The PCM is on the passenger side firewall under the hood. *7 The rear control unit is on the left side of the trunk.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 15, 2003 at 8:11 PM
Since it's your own car, you probably won't mind experimenting a bit.
Just make a quick, temporary connection of your postive door trigger wire, to the BLACK/ blue wire at the underdash courtesy light. Give it a couple of days and see if it falses.
If it does false, there is a fairly simple way to use one relay to fix it, but it is probably easier to just give it a try without it first.
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