Print Page | Close Window

96 Sebring Convertible

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=19692
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 1:39 AM


Topic: 96 Sebring Convertible

Posted By: Matrix733
Subject: 96 Sebring Convertible
Date Posted: October 05, 2003 at 9:40 PM

Hello all, i have a few questions, so bear with me.  I have a 1996 Chysler sebring convertible of which i don't have the factory remote but the factory security system is installed.  Am installing a mannix  sm700 lcd remote start paging alarm system.

1.  This alarm as a negative disarm output (disable factory alarm) but this same wire is also the defroster output which i really want to hookup.  Is there any other way to disable the factory unit so i can use this output for the defroster instead. I cannot hook up both to this wire according to the manual as it said defrost or disarm. I will also unplug the factory rf antenna so it doesn't affect the range of my aftermarket system. While am on defrosters, does anyone know if this vehicle has - or + defroster?

According to most diagrams i came across for my car, it uses a negative disarm and the mannix manual included diagram to hookup with relays to either negative or positive.  I know on some factory system you can put a certain wire to ground to disable the factory system, do you fellows know if such a thing exist on mine.  thanks.

If i can't disable the factory alarm without using the disarm output from the mannix system,  is any resistors needed to hookup the relay to the disarm wire, if so what capacity?  I am a little confused on what wire is the correct door lock/unlock one as on bulldog site it says WHITE/ dk.green, on this site diagram, WHITE/ l.green and i had one emailed to me that said the l.GREEN/ orange security wire will lock and unlock the doors making the use of the WHITE/ dk.green doorlock wire unnecessary.  I guess i can cut one at a time and fint out, lol. thanks.

2.  This alarm also has two aux output, am planning on using one for the window roll up module, i have two modules and i just want to roll all four windows up when the system is armed. Can i use one aux to operate two modules ? the aux output will need a relay and can either be positive or negative but i guess positive is what i need for the window roll up module or is this incorrect ? Thanks.

3. Door Locks - have read a lot here and found some really helpfull info on this part, however i still have a few ??

Upon reading here, i realized that this car uses a positive trigger door lock system.  Two relays and a 2.7k resistor for the unlock pulse and 620 for the lock pulse.  I use resistors on other applications but am no electro wiz.  Is 2.7k the same as 2700 ohms, since i can't find a 2.7 k resistor can i use a 2.2k and five 100 ohms wired in series or 2.2k +470 ohms +22 ohms +8 ohms, don't you guys love the newbies around here? thanks.

4. Since am running so many relays with all of them needing a +12v, can i just run a wire from the battery and fuse (30a) all the relays off it?  Am trying not to tap into anymore ignition wires than i have to. thanks

Any and all imput will be greatly appreciated by this Novice, thanks.




Replies:

Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: October 05, 2003 at 10:08 PM
CHRYSLER, SEBRING CONVERTIBLE, 1996, Power Lock - WHITE/ green
Door locks are positive trigger, must use relays. Lock is a straight positive trigger, unlock requires a positive trigger with a 1500 ohm resistor wired in series.

CHRYSLER, SEBRING CONVERTIBLE, 1996, Factory Alarm Arm - lt. GREEN/ orange
Factory alarm arm requires a positive trigger with a 940 ohm resistor wired in series. Factory alarm disarm requires a positive trigger with a 470 ohm resistor wired in series.

Try not to use more than 2 resistors to obtain a required value, occasionally I've seen problems when doing so. Also, you don't need to be exact. Usually +/- 5% is fine.

Not familiar with the system you are using, but can you program it to unlock the doors before remote starting and then relock the doors after it starts? If so, I have an idea to avoid using the disarm wire to disarm the vehicle leaving it free for the defroster.




Posted By: Matrix733
Date Posted: October 05, 2003 at 10:16 PM
Jworm, thanks for your reply, yes i can program it to unlock the door before remote start and relock after. thanks

-------------




Posted By: Matrix733
Date Posted: October 05, 2003 at 10:24 PM
Okay, sorry i got that wrong, i can program it to relock the doors if  the locking system automatically opens it before remote start, will try  it tommorrow and see if it does. thanks.

-------------




Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: October 05, 2003 at 10:30 PM
The following relay setup will unlock the doors before remote starting, relock the doors after starting, unlock and disarm the car when you hit unlock, lock and arm the car when you hit lock.

Relay 1
86 - constant +12v
85 - lock from remote start
87 - constant +12v
30 - to WHITE/ green lock wire in car

Relay 2
86 - constant +12v
85 - lock from remote start
87 - constant +12v
30 - thru 940 ohm resistor to lt. GREEN/ org wire

Relay 3
86 - constant +12v
85 - unlock from remote start
87 - constant +12v
30 - thru 1500 ohm resistor to WHITE/ green unlock wire in car

Relay 4
86 - constant +12v
85 - unlock from remote start
87 - constant +12v
30 - thru 470 ohm resistor to lt. GREEN/ org wire

Your disarm wire will now be free to use on the defroster. Program the locks to unlock before starting, relock after starting.




Posted By: Matrix733
Date Posted: October 06, 2003 at 11:12 AM
Thanks for the relay setup, will see if that works.

-------------




Posted By: Matrix733
Date Posted: October 08, 2003 at 3:26 PM

Hello again, i have a regular multimeter and wanted to know if a digital multimeter will let me know what polarity a switch or circuit is.  I have a 96 sebring convertible and wanted to hookup my rs to the defroster and am wanting to know if i connect a DMM to it and activate the defroster if the dmm will let me know the polarity or just show the volts.

or should i assume if there is any volts then is positive and no volts negative.  My remote start as setup for both - and + so am trying to figure out what it is, thanks.



-------------




Posted By: xetmes
Date Posted: October 08, 2003 at 3:45 PM

well it depends hook the postitive side to it and the other side to ground, if nothing, hook the positive side to a known 12V source and the negative side to it





Posted By: Matrix733
Date Posted: October 12, 2003 at 5:21 AM

hello all, what is the most common solution for this.  I am installing a mannix lcd pager al & rs sm700 in a 96 sebring convertible.  Am almost done with the wiring , i only have like window rollup, dome light and trunk release to finish but decided to test this unit.

When i try to remote start the vehicle it cranks but won't start and it does three attempts.  Will connecting the tach to the injectors solve this or could it just not be cranking long enough.  I did tach learning and still no go.  I will also recheck all my ignition wiring again according to the manual but would like to know common causes of cranking but no start, thanks. 



-------------




Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: October 12, 2003 at 12:29 PM
Tach is not the problem. If Tach were the problem, the car would either start and keep cranking, or start run and then shut off.

It sounds like you may have your Ignition and accessory wires switched and your ignition wire is dropping out during cranking like your accessories should. I am not too familiar with that unit so I cant give detailed info on that though.

Like you said, just make sure your connections are good and right.

-------------
J Rilla

Owner/Installer




Posted By: c2deez
Date Posted: October 12, 2003 at 12:32 PM
Most common are:
1. Factory fuel-shutoff. If your key is grey this may be the problem.
2. Correct Ignition wire(s) not energized during r\s sequence.
       --If you are using accessory wires to make up for ignition wires, the power will drop out during the crank cycle and the vehicle won't start.
Hope this helps.




Posted By: Matrix733
Date Posted: October 12, 2003 at 6:53 PM
Thanks for replys, i will try switching the ignition wires tommorrow.

-------------




Posted By: intensem1rider
Date Posted: October 12, 2003 at 8:37 PM
i just had the same prob with a 1995 crysler cirrus. The ground came loose and it started, but turned off right after starting. I used a autostart, so it may be different but the symptoms are the same.   Check your ground with a test light to see if it is good enough, not all metal components are grounded.

If everything else is wired up good, then you may need to go for the injectors, , , use the uncommon wire on any injector. But good luck getting to them unless you have leprecan hands, if i can remember the injectors are under the manifold.




Posted By: sroth140
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 12:34 AM

intensem1rider wrote:

i just had the same prob with a 1995 crysler cirrus. The ground came loose and it started, but turned off right after starting. I used a autostart, so it may be different but the symptoms are the same.   Check your ground with a test light to see if it is good enough, not all metal components are grounded.

If everything else is wired up good, then you may need to go for the injectors, , , use the uncommon wire on any injector. But good luck getting to them unless you have leprecan hands, if i can remember the injectors are under the manifold.

please stop using test lights :X  i had a co worker fired for that before.  fried a computer.





Posted By: k2thz
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 8:37 AM
Check the documentation for your remote starter; some vehicles require the use of the accessory line as an additional ignition line. A lot of starters will have a configurable option to keep this line on during r/s...

DDR




Posted By: Matrix733
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 2:26 PM
Thanks fellows, i had the wrong ig1 wire, so it was getting no volts during cranking, switched it and it fired right up, thanks.

-------------




Posted By: Matrix733
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 7:04 PM
;

hello all, am trying to connect my defroster to aux 1 on my mannix remote start  to a 96 sebring convertible.

First i found the wire that goes hot (have 12v) after defroster button is pressed.  My defroster button does not stay pressed in, when i press it to activate defroster the light in the button comes on and the button comes back out but the wire that goes hot, constantly have 12v on it till the sytem is turned off.  Is that what is called momentary switch?

I can hook up my aux output to be - or + , in this case here is my current positive setup. This is according to my manual.

85 to aux 1 (-)

87 & 86 to 12v ( i took 12v directly from battery then fused each connection with 30 amp fuse).

30 to aux1 (+) or in my case to the defroster wire.

When i push the button to activate the aux 1 channel, the light on the defroster comes on for about 1 second then goes off because the volts drop off since aux1 is just a 0.8 second 500ma pulse which with this relay setup actually produces the 12 volts at pin 30.

Is there any way to set this so it will constantly produce the twelve volts i need and then i can turn it off after i get in the car.

After looking at the circuit board that the defroster switch is on, i notice that when i push the button in to turn defroster on, all it does is use two copper prongs (connected to nothing else) to jump these two points, can i solder two wires to this point and if someone can give me some relay diagram to jump these two points i can get this to work, thanks.



-------------




Posted By: IXJ159
Date Posted: October 13, 2003 at 8:59 PM

WOW! Never knew you could fry a computer by checking a GROUND with a test light!!! lol use test lights all day everyday, just know what to use them on!! checking grounds is 100% safe!






Print Page | Close Window