2002 Dodge Caravan Remote Start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=2005
Printed Date: May 08, 2025 at 1:46 AM

Topic: 2002 Dodge Caravan Remote Start

Posted By: MadBanchee
Subject: 2002 Dodge Caravan Remote Start
Date Posted: July 17, 2002 at 12:28 AM

I am having problems with a couple of things on the install of a Commando Alarms EZ-2100/2200 on a 2002 Dodge Caravan and appreciate any help.

*One is that I can not seem to get only the parking lights to turn on or flash, instead the parking lights and head lights come on in combination. I have wired the parking light output of the module through a relay and 2.1k resistor to the WHITE/ brown wire as indicated on the wire chart. That however isn't a big deal.

**I mostly need assistance to get the accessories (AC/Heat) to turn on. I have the following connections: from the RS module the STARTER (Purple) output is going to the vehicle's STARTER 1 (Yellow) and to 86 on a relay. IGNITION 2 (Brown) output from the module is going to 85 on the relay. The vehicle's STARTER 2 (PURPLE / Brown) is going to 87 of the relay. And finally, 30 of the relay is going to ground through a 180 ohm resistor. The vehicle starts ok (with the acceptation of some grind from the starter) but the heat/air does not come on unless I remove/unplug the relay from the circuit once the engine is started, essentially lifting the 180 ohms from ground or removing contact of the vehicle's STARTER 2 wire. Any help on this? Is there anything I can do about the grind on the starter? Is there anything I need to do withh thethch wire.

***And finally, I have not yet wired the door locks but am rather curious if I really need the DLR that was suggested to me at the time of sale since the RS module outputs a negative pulse and the Dodge Caravan uses a single-wire negative trigger system. Can I merely connect the output of the RS module (lock/unlock) through the appropriate resistors (5.3k and 2.0k) each in series with a diode to eliminate bounce of the signal???

- Thank You -

Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: July 17, 2002 at 7:32 AM

1. The parking lights are negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. The headlights are negative trigger thru a 790 ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch.

2. The ACCESSORY is not a required hook up for remote start. THe AC/Heater will automatically turn on if installation of all other wires is correct.

3. The grind is because the tach wire is not correct or the unit is receiving "garbage" in the tach signal. On the 2.4L use blue/green or blue/tan. On the 3.3L/3.8L use blue/green, blue/tan or blue/orange. Otherwise if you can shorten the crank time on the RS, do so otherwise make sure that you have the correct tach wire or go to an injector ( uncommon color ) and set the RS to 1 cylinder.

4. You can make your own DRL with 2 relays. Look at this diagram posted_image :

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: July 17, 2002 at 1:55 PM

Hey MadBanchee,

Essentially your heater problem is related to the reaction of a load on the ignition line. I know this sounds stupid but trust me when it comes to databuss, we can get some surprises! You said that pin 85 of the second start relay is fed by 2nd ignition out. Instead connect it to a constant ground out upon remote starting and let us know what the results are. posted_image

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: July 17, 2002 at 10:34 PM

Look at this post:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=1&TopicID=1672

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: MadBanchee
Date Posted: July 20, 2002 at 2:40 PM

Well thanks for all the input, guys - I worked on it a little this weekend and this is what I came up with:

posted_image

It probably took me longer to make this little drawing than the time it took to wire it up! All I had was Paintbrush and had to find something to convert it from bmp for the post. I hope this helps others with the same problems I had.

The alarm module I have is a Commando EZ-2200 and it only has one start (crank) output. I found the diode was necessary because when the car was started by key it would energize the relay and put the 180 ohm resistor in parallel to what is already in the switch and the car would not start properly and in fact sometimes not all. No more starter grind either! I'm glad I had the thing sitting around! and mostly, I'm glad I bumped into the12volt.com! posted_image

By the way, about the headlights..... the resistor values for this vehicle that seem to be posted all over the web as being 2.1K for parking and 790 ohm for headlights seem to incorrect! In fact, 2.1K turns on headlights and 5.6K turns on the parking lights. I do not know what the 790 ohm does - I didn't try it. I obtained this information from Bulldog Alarms web site - Thanks Bulldog! And thanks all to you guys as well - mission complete! Well almost. I still want to install a remote window module but that will be on another weekend and I'll start a new thread.

Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: July 24, 2002 at 1:36 PM

Hey MadBanchee,

A diode inline is a solution for feedback. But I was wondering about the diagram https://madbanchee.gotdns.com/images/ignition.jpg . What size diode did you use and does it heat up when you do repeated starts? posted_image

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Posted By: MadBanchee
Date Posted: August 03, 2002 at 10:36 AM

I used a 1N4001 1 amp forward biased diode and it seems to work fine - it's been a few weeks now and I haven't noticed any problems. I think it's good to go! posted_image

I noticed this diode was a common component inside the RS module itself. Yes, I took it apart! Although i really don't know much about all the different diodes I have some vague recolection that I read a data sheet on the 400x series and seem to remember that it was a rather low voltage and had an allowance of rather high reverse current. It should be fine.

Posted By: lonelygvr4
Date Posted: February 06, 2003 at 7:58 PM

does anybody now where thr door trigger wires are for this van? help me please

Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: February 07, 2003 at 7:40 AM

Hey lonelygvr4

There are separate door triggers for each door, they are all in connector 3 at the BCM. The driver door trigger is purple in pin 6, the passenger door is PURPLE / white in pin 7, the left sliding door is PURPLE / gray in pin 8, and the right sliding door is purple / YELLOW in pin 5. Use all four and diode isolate each. The BCM is in the drivers kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs. posted_image

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 07, 2003 at 6:13 PM

In the driver's kick, there's a yellow/red, positive trigger, and it catches all doors. The only downsides are that A. it is affected by the domelight delay, and B. This wire won't come on if the driver has purposely disabled the domelight using the switch on the dashboard.

Positive parking lights is WHITE/ brown in the driver's kick, and we've done hundreds this way with no trouble. There are two WHITE/ browns; only one of them is parking lights.

WHITE/ tan brake wire can be found here also.