Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 98 Honda CRV remote starter

Hi,

I'm doing an install on the above car, but can't seem to find the "lock" wire. Everywere I look says it's a green wire with a white stripe. I've looked everywere but can't find the wire. It's not in the driver kick panel or behind the fuse block. If anyone can help I would really appreciate it.

Thanks!

Let me be more specific. I am looking for the wire that will read -12V when I hit the "lock" button on the factory keyless entry. This is my 3rd remote starter install, so I am relatively competent. Or if anyone has wiring diagram that would be appreciated as well.

Thanks!

Ok two locations. if you look high in the drivers kick you will see a green plug that is not used at all (not pugged in) and should have all your door lock and unlock wire in there (GREEN / WHITE lock - GREEN/ orange unlock -) or where I like to get them is drivers door harness. I do not know if you can get it in the driver door harness or not, but there will be a green plug high in the drivers kick.

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2005 Toyota Corolla S
1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!

The wire colors you have found listed on variuos sites refer to wires that show ground when you hit the switch on the door. Why do you need a wire that will show ground when you hit lock/unlock on your factory keyless remote? Are you adding a remote start and trying to use the factory remote? I hope not. Honda's remotes don't work when the ignition is turned on, so you would have to find the keyless module and rewire it. Not to mention, the range on the factory remotes is probably poor.

Here is the 98 Honda CRV wiring diagarm.

98 Honda CRV

Factory Alarm or Keyless Entry Module located under Driver's seat

Good luck

Thank you everyone for your advice.

I am installing a Bulldog RS-85i remote starter.

Daniel2002p - I saw that plug you are referring to, but did not bother to look at it, since it didn't go anywhere. I will try that! So the wire I will find there is a green wire with white stripe right? BTW, I didn't want to go to the door, since going thru the grommets is so difficult.

JWorm - I need a wire that shows either "positive" or "negative" when the "lock" button is depressed on the keyless entry remote. I found about 3 GREEN / WHITE wires that showed +1.5V neutral and 0V when depressed (this didn't work). I am adding the "option" that allows me to remote start the car with the factory keyless entry by hitting the lock button 3 times.

Thanks!

I have another question. After the installation, everything seemed to work fine, except that the idle sounded funny. There was a high pitch whine along with the idle and the rpm's were higher than normal. Would this be consistent if I had accidently wired the "starter/crank" to continuous +12V through either ignition or accessory.

Thanks,
Noel
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Where did you locate the 12 volt wire. Make sure that you tap into the 12 volt wire that is in the ignition. As for the pitch, I have that all the time when installing r/s on Hondas and so far none have come back with problems even after as much as 3 years of installing in those cars. I would make sure that all the ignitions and accesory wires a being powered up duiring remote start, and that it is reveiving a high current 12 vlots. Hope this helps.

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2005 Toyota Corolla S
1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!

lorenzo_n16 wrote:

I have another question. After the installation, everything seemed to work fine, except that the idle sounded funny. There was a high pitch whine along with the idle and the rpm's were higher than normal. Would this be consistent if I had accidently wired the "starter/crank" to continuous +12V through either ignition or accessory.

Thanks,
Noel
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Can you be more specific. I am having a hard time trying to understand what you are trying to communicate.

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2005 Toyota Corolla S
1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!

There is a WHITE/ red wire in the drivers kick panel that will show positive when you hit the lock button on the remote or the switch on the door. That is probably the wire you want to hook up to.

The GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ orange (-) trigger wires might not show anything when you press lock and unlock on the factory remote. They might only work when pushing the switch on the door. I won't get into explaining why.

Have you run into the problem yet that the factory keyless remote won't work once you remote start the vehicle?

The idle sounding funny is not normal. If you wired the starter wire to constant or ignition it would be making a hideous grinding noise, not a whining sound.

JWorm] wrote:

There is a WHITE/ red wire in the drivers kick panel that will show positive when you hit the lock button on the remote or the switch on the door. That is probably the wire you want to hook up to.

The GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ orange (-) trigger wires might not show anything when you press lock and unlock on the factory remote. They might only work when pushing the switch on the door. I won't get into explaining why.

I will try it this weekend. It sounds like the WHITE/ red wire is the one I want since I want + or -12V when I hit the lock button on the factory keyless entry.

JWorm] wrote:

he idle sounding funny is not normal. If you wired the starter wire to constant or ignition it would be making a hideous grinding noise, not a whining sound.

I agree because I have installed 2 other remote starters in Hondas and the idle was the same whether or not I start it with a key or with a remote starter. After talking with bulldog tech support, they say that I may have interchanged the Starter wire with either the Accessory wire or one of the Ignition wires. I will test each one with a voltmeter this weekend.

Thanks!

daniel2002p wrote:

Can you be more specific. I am having a hard time trying to understand what you are trying to communicate.

Okay, after my "installation" I hit the start on the bulldog remote. The car started fine, but the engine idle sounded abnormal. There was a louder than normal high pitched sound coming from the engine. Also, the car was revving about 500 rpm higher than normal. I know this because as soon as I put the key in to override the bulldog starter, the idle drops back down to a normal sound and tach reading drops also(800-1000 rpms). I am thinking that the high pitched sound is from the "starter" being left in the "on" (continuous power) position, which would be consistent if I had reversed some wires. Or, would I get a constant grinding. I'm confused.

You have to relearn the TACH signal to the unit. If the unit has a fine adjustment feature, try to lower the crank time on the unit so it's not dragging the starter. Make sure that when you learn the tach, the vehicle has been running for at least 5-10 minutes to reach it's lowest idle RPM.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote:

You have to relearn the TACH signal to the unit. If the unit has a fine adjustment feature, try to lower the crank time on the unit so it's not dragging the starter. Make sure that when you learn the tach, the vehicle has been running for at least 5-10 minutes to reach it's lowest idle RPM.

The unit I have is set on "tachless" mode. My only issue now is still the idling. After I remote start the vehicle it starts normally but the idle is slightly noisier and revs higher than when the car is started with the key. I tested all my wires and everything is correct. The only ones I could have possibly interchanged are ignition-1 and ignition-2 wires (this shouldn't make a difference). I have installed 3 other remote starters in Honda's and each one idled the same whether I used the key or the remote starter. Is the idling normal? Any ideas?

Thanks.

Try using the TACH wire instead of the tachless. Can't hurt and if it works great ! If not, set it back to TACHLESS

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

You are looking for the wrong wires. The wires that will show you 12 volts when you are using the factory transmitters are the lock and unlock motor wires. You need to be looking for the wires that come off of the switch which will be negative. They are in the drivers kick panel in a green plug. Many alarms dont have a strong enough negative pulse to drive these wires so you may need a relay to boost the ground. But believe me they are in the kick!

Hi all!

I am installing a remote starter. The car has 2 accessory wires that need to be energized. The remote starter unit only has 1 accessory wire output. How can I hook up the 2 accessory wires to the 1 accessory output on the R/S. If I hook them up straight something will probably fry. Please advise, can I do this with a relay? If so please show me that way.

Gratefully yours,

Lorenzo