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1997 Sunfire / Remote Starter

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=20477
Printed Date: July 07, 2025 at 11:28 AM


Topic: 1997 Sunfire / Remote Starter

Posted By: blackbird19
Subject: 1997 Sunfire / Remote Starter
Date Posted: October 23, 2003 at 12:26 PM

I have installed a Bulldog remote starter on a 97 Sunfire and used a DEI 554 module to bypass the Passlock 1 feature. For some reason, the car shuts off after a few seconds of running... as if the Passlock was never bypassed. If the key is used to start the car and then I let the remote start take over (take the key out of the igition while the car continues to run), the bypass module gets the car's resistance code ok and the car continues to run. The remote starter will then start the car any number of times until the car is shut OFF with the key. Then the module seems to forget the resistance code and won't allow the car to start with the remote. In addition to this problem, anytime the remote start is used, the "Security" light on the car remains on. Is any of this making sense? If someone can understand the problem, can you off any help? If the problem is not clear, I will try to explain in more detail through email. (poolman58@yahoo.com) Thanks.


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-Chris



Replies:

Posted By: vaderfop
Date Posted: October 23, 2003 at 12:35 PM
What part number did you use to bypass? DEI part 554? for passlock I i believe you should use 555T or 555L.

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Remember check all your wires with a DMM!




Posted By: derek123
Date Posted: October 23, 2003 at 12:52 PM

PL 1 only "looks" for/ at the r-code during the crank cycle.

thats what the bulb test, or crank wire is for on most bypasses, to know when to 'look' for the signal.

the reason you able to take over with the RS after a key start, is that the vehicle 'doesn't care' about the PL 1 after the vehicle has started.





Posted By: dfiddy
Date Posted: October 23, 2003 at 8:34 PM
p1 sucks...DEI 555L with bulb check...yep




Posted By: blackbird19
Date Posted: October 24, 2003 at 12:31 PM
i understand how passlock 1 works and i know why the car will remain running with the remote start after cranking with the key. my question is, why is the bypass module not remembering the correct code after programming it intially by cranking the car with the key? the DEI 554 says it's good for passlock 1 for the 97 Sunfire. (a tech at Circuit City sold it to me saying it was what they used when installing remote starts.) if the part is the only suggestion for my problem at this time, i'll go buy the 555L. thanks for the suggestion.

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-Chris




Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: October 24, 2003 at 3:45 PM
I work for Circuit City and I never use 554 to bypass passlock 1, whoever sold you that did not know what he was talking about.  You need the 555L because the 554 is a pos and hardly ever works.  I only install with 555L.

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2005 Toyota Corolla S
    1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!




Posted By: blackbird19
Date Posted: October 25, 2003 at 7:07 PM
ok, i have to apologize to everyone. when i posted the first few messages, i was typing the parts on used off of memory. i was wrong about the 554. i have infact used the 555L just like every said i should. however, the problem still exists. does anyone have another suggestion for this problem? i apologize for the inconvenience and for doubting the pros. any further help would be greatly appreciated... my girl friend is starting to get on my back about it ya know? lol. thanks!

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-Chris




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: October 25, 2003 at 8:13 PM
are you shure you grabbed the right buld test wire?  it should be on the left of the steering colum, comming out of the black connector with 5 wires comming out of it i believe.  If thats not right, it should be between the 2 12v wires.......a 18 guage black wire..  hope that is the problem and solves it.




Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: October 25, 2003 at 9:01 PM
I have not had good luck with bypass modules when dealing with Passlock I, so I use 2 relays and a resistor and it works every time. My guess as to why the modules dont like to work, is perhaps the grounding of the bulb test wire. Either the ground is not good enough, or the timing is poor, or something, I dont know but I do know modules dont work too often. I havent tried any of the newer modules though.

If you give up, take a look at Diagram 2 on this link:

Passlock I Temporary Bypass (Diagram #3)

I use 10k trimpots because I can get the exact resistence, but a resistor within 5% should do. People will tell you that the resistors will get cold and then fall out of tolerance, but that will only happen if you are already at the limit of your tolerance to begin with, thats why i use trimpots.

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J Rilla

Owner/Installer




Posted By: blackbird19
Date Posted: October 27, 2003 at 2:29 PM
thank you so much for all the advice. as soon as the little woman can loan me her car, i'll double check the bulb check wire connection. if that isn't the problem, i will build my own bypass using the diagram. (probably should have went that route in the first place.) thanks again... i'll write later with the results.


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-Chris





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