Crimestopper RS900 Remote Start Problem, 95 Pathfinder

I have a crimestoppper RS900 remote start installed in my 95 pathfinder. All of a sudden the starter doesn't engage to start the vehicle. Everything seems to be working except to turn the starter over. I checked fuses and they are fine. Where do I need to go next?

it wont start with the key? or just via remote?

-------------
J Rilla

Owner/Installer

it will start with the key, the remote start does not engage the ignition, the control module clicks ,parking lights come on just as normal. The engine just doesn't turn over--Just trying to figure out if it is in the unit or if it is a wiring problem . thanks

The unit might be bad. How long have you had it installed? Did you solder your connections? Does everything else work fine on the unit: Door locks, Ignition truns on and when it makes tis futile attempt to start, do the accessories drop out?

Check your output from the RS starter wire? If it is putting out juice during cranking, then your connection is bad, if it isnt then the unit may be bad, or possibly your ground or power souce has a nad connection.

-------------
J Rilla

Owner/Installer

does the rs unit have onboard or satallit relays?? i had a similar problem with the sidewinder on my camry and it turned out to be a bad relay. if the unit uses satallite relays its easy, just pull on of the relays and put it on the one that you think is malfunctioning. if the unit uses onboard relays then you might be the unit its self. use a dmm and check the high current wires

also check and see if you tapped the starter wire before or after the starter kill relay. It is vital that the start wire is tapped after the relay

If the remote start doesn't turn on the ignition then you might want to check your connections to the ignition wire(s), check your hoodpin if installed, relearn tach if you used that, etc. Usually when the unit responds in some way, but doesn't turn the ignition on it's shutting down because of the hood being open, brake being pressed, on/off switch off, or not programmed correctly. Course it could always be a bad unit as well..How long did you have it installed AND working correctly before this?

Good luck,

Mike

If the lights come on, indicating a pre-start, but then shuts down. I would suggest that you varify that the hood pin is well grounded.

That is most common problem I have seen during the years. All the other things *NowYaKnow* is correct, if the hood pin is not the culprit.

If the hood pin is indeed the problem, ensure the re-installation of the new hood pin includes a *star* washer and a dab of dielectric grease compond, to ensure a long & trouble free service life.

Rgards


EVIL Teken...

I have a crimestopper RS900. For some reason one of the 30 amp fuses keeps blowing. This is a fuse linked into one of the red wires going to the battery. I have 2 red wires running from the unit to the battery both have fuses but only 1 blows about every 5 starts. Any help would be appreciated.

1. Varify the ground connection for the RS unit.

2. Varify the condition and the state of charge of your battery.

3. Re-learn the tach signal, only after the vehicle has achieved full operating temperature.

4. Varify the basic ignition components are all within service limits.


========================================================


All of the above only addresses a over current condition which will blow a 30 amp fuse, based on the condition you have discribed.

1. A bad ground will cause a spike / surge, which will cause erractive behaviour and power issues.

2. A weak battery or charging system will prolong the starting period, which will cause more current to be drawn, regardless if the vehicle can provide it.

3. If the unit has been taught a TACH signal with semi-tach, vacuum tach, or amplifier tach. Again, the duration of the crank time may be too long, and drawing too much current.

4. Ensure your spark plugs, cap, rotor, and ignition wires are fully within service limits. Again, poor spark from the ignition system will prolong the crank time in the vehilce, which in cold weather will draw more current than is allowed.

5. Do not under any circumstance replace the 30 amp fuse for a high amperage one. Doing so will cause failure to the RS unit and may cause a failure in the harness and thus a fire.

6. You will want to varify that the following condition is not present, and also causing the problem. The RS has a the ability to turn on the HVAC system 2 seconds after the RS is intiated.

Varify that this is the case. As many installers do not use this feature, thinking it has no real purpose. So when the user enables a RS during cold periods, and leaves the HVAC on full, the extra current draw will blow the fuse.

You will know this is the case, if you sit in your vehicle and RS the unit with the HVAC in the on position. If it comes on with the RS, then it is not wired up correctly, and your only recourse is to either leave it off, or rewire it properly using the wire supplied.


7. If all of the above things have been varified, and the unit continues to blow fuses. Return the unit to Crimnestoppers, and ask for Shawn. 1-800-998-6880


Regards

EVIL Teken

Thanks  for the help. I think it might be the heater. The heater does come on when the motor cranks. Does this mean there is a wire not connected properly and which wire is connected in the wrong place? I had someone else hook the unit up so I'm not familiar  with all the wires. Thanks

If the RS system is wired to ignition 2, and that in turn is wired to the GREY wire leading to the RS unit, then that is correct.

The unit will RS, and turn on the HVAC at the same time it starts. That is still acceptable, assuming your vehicle can handle the current draw.

They could have also used the TAN wire which is normally used to activate the rear defrost switch. Either method is acceptable, assuming the vehilce is fully functional and the same problem is not present as it is here.

You can do a simple check as I said. RS the unit 5 consective times, waiting one minute in between. With the HVAC off.

If it blows the fuse, then you need to do all the checks I discribed earlier. If it doesnt, good, and move on the second test.


RS the unit with the HVAC in the exact same manner as you do now, whether that be leaving it on at the minimum blower output, or at the hi-setting.

Again, RS the unit 5 consective times, waiting one minute in between. If it blows, you have found your problem. Your only recourse is to either set it lower, or not at all.

Or, to re-wire the system so as the HVAC comes on 2 seconds after the RS has initiated.


Regards


EVIL Teken...

The YELLOW / WHITE wire is also used to activate a secondary source, such as the HVAC. The TAN wire is used for a *momentary* pulse, such as the rear defrost switch.

It can also remain on, so long as you depress the switch, if wired to do so.

Regards

EVIL Teken...

Did you perform the test as it is outlined above as well?

With the HVAC off? Does it blow the fuse?

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .