2001 Chevy 2500 passlock booboo

I have a 2001 chevy 2500 and I installed a crimestopper RS900 VI. I didn't put a passlock bypass in as I didn't know I needed it at the time, but It wouldn't work and wouldn't even start with a key, but If I tried to start with the key and then pushed the remote start button it would run for 24 minutes and I would have to do it again no security light or anything. Well since then I installed a DEI 555L but I still get the same thing only the security light stays on. here is the booboo part. When I originally connected to the yellow starter wire from the RS I wasn't connected to the starter wire It was the yellow passlock wire. So in turn I put 12 volts to this wire. Now I really need help fixing this, I at least need to get it to start with the key. I have disconnected the battery I have waited up to 1 hour with the key on and still it won't start with only the key or only the RS. I don't know what to do ........Please Help Me..

Try unplugging all the plugs from the body control module underneath the steering column. The BCM is the black box with the colored plugs in it. Leave it unplugged for one minute. Disconnect any wiring you have done first to eliminate further problems. Turn the key on, but don't start the engine. If you are lucky the security light on the dash will flash. If it does leave the key in the on position for 15 minutes. The light should stop flashing and the truck should then start. If not you may have smoked the BCM. Sorry. Once the magic smoke is out you can't put it back in too easy. You can also check for blown fuses in the dash fuse panel and the fuse panel underhood. Good Luck!

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sparky

I will try this and see, In the mean time does anyone know the proceedure for reseting the passlock? What I don't understand is why will thr remote starter start the truck if the key is in it but the key won't start it?

I guess I am freaking out a little because I don't know what to do.

Disconnect the bypass and reconnect the yellow passlock wire, then do what sparkie said.

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J Rilla

Owner/Installer

ok, I did all of the above and still no go. I did check with a meter and the bypass was putting a signal to the passlock but no signal without the bypass connected. Anyone know what a BCM cost and are they vehicle specific?

Does anyone know where I can get a BCM for a 2001 chevy 2500HD other than the dealer. Or does antone have one I can buy? I think I narrowed it down to I cooked my passlock.

Hey ,try this procedure .With your key turn the ignition on and try to start it .When it fails to start leave the key in the on position and observe the security light flash for 10 minutes.This is the passlock learn procedure .When the light stops flashing try to start the truck again.You may have to repeat this Passlock learn procedure three times.If you can't fix it this way you will need new hall effect sensors and will have to do this procedure.

I will atempt this, I don't get a security light when the key is on, The only time I get a security light is when the Remote start has the truck running. I have been messing with this all morning. What I don't understand is why will the remote starter start the truck but the key won't. when I only turn the key on the battery light comes on and stays on. I removed the bypass and measured the voltage on the yellow passlock wire and it measued 5.04 VDC with the truck running on remote start.but no voltage or anything if it is not running with remote start.

Do you have a starter kill relay installed? It sounds like you may have an issue with that. If you dont get a security light with the key in and in the on position then your truck should be able to start. And since you say it starts with the remote starter, then the passlock must not be fried.

If you really want to know if your car is ok, re-connect the passlock wire and the starter wire if you installed a starter kill relay and then try to start the car.

You may just have made a brain fart when typing the 5.04 vDC, but the passlock is measured in Ohms.



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J Rilla

Owner/Installer

What may have happened is that you fried the portion of the passlock system that is in the key's cylinder. Just to clarify, you cannot start the car with the key but you can start it with the remote start?

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Certified Security Specialist
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I don't have a starter kill relay installed as far as I knew I didn't need to do this. But it looks like I don't know much either. It did measure 5.04 VDC with the 555L connected, this is measuring the yellow wire to ground. on DC voltage.  Just to confirm I cannot start with the key but I can start with remote start, right now I go everywhere 24 minutes at a time, once the remote starter times out the engine dies. but one other thing is while the remote starter has the truck running I can turn the key to start and it will engage and grind the starter. Also even with everything removed and connected like before I started this project It will not start with the key and I don't get a security light. at least I don't think I did I will try disconnecting and check for security light. I am so confused. I appreciate all the help.

ok, after disconnecting the 555L and with the yellow wire cut I measured .903 K ohms. Red lead on the key side of the cut yellow wire and black lead on the ORANGE / black wire. Of course I cannot start the truck with the key but, I measured this with the key on the on position and got .903K ohms and started the truck with the remote starter and got .903K ohms. What does this tell us?

I took these measurements with a Fluke 787 Processmeter. Just to ensure ya'll I am using a good meter.

Try this, ground the negative input ( I think it is the blue/black wire coming off of the 555L going to the alarm's 2/3 ignition output) to activate the 555L and then try starting the vehicle with the key and see if it will start and run for longer then the remote start time out. If this works then you could at least use it temporarily.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Still can't edit, where are you located at? I found a junk yard bcm for $100 here in Arizona.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

I am in gillette, WY.....Do you think it is my BCM or is it something that the dealer needs to reset?

It sounds like there is something seriously wrong if your car is only running for the preset runtime. Once the car has started, you should be able to put the key in and take over. The passlock only shuts down the car if it doesnt see the proper resistence when starting the vehicle. you can cut the yellow passlock wire after the car has started and it will keep running (you will throw the theft light on, but it will keep running. So since you say it will only start with the RS, and wont stay running longer than the RS runtime, then it would seem to be a problem with the key not powering an ignition wire. Wait though. Do you drive the truck like this? i mean do you remote start and then put the key in and go driving around and hope to get back before the runtime expires? if so, that would seem very weird unless you did not hook up the brake input from the starter, since the RS should turn off the first time you hit the brake to shift into gear.

OK, so here is something to try. Test all of the wires in you ignition harness that you connected the RS wires to. But test them like you did before installing, by testing each one with the key in the acc position, then the on position, then the start position. If they all test as the should then there is likely no simple reason for the key to not be able to keep the engine running. You might want to put a 900 Ohm resistor across the yellow and ORANGE / black wire for testing. Unless you just ground the bypass input wire like mentioned above.

This is just a thought, but it almost sounds like one of the connectors in your ignition harness is disconnected. This would explain why the key wouldn't start the vehicle, as well as why you dont get a security light with the key, and also why the key wont take over the engine after a reomte start, but of course in order for you to be able to drive it around, you would have to have disconnected the brake input.

At this point you need to check every little detail. Check the obvious things that you have said in your mind, "well I know that cant be the problem, so I dont need to check that". And also a complete recap of everything in great detail would really help. I am sure you have mentioned everything, but it is in bits and pieces throughout this thread so it is more difficult to piece together.



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J Rilla

Owner/Installer

It sounds to me like you have damaged the ignition cylinder part of the Passlock system. To check it turn your ignition switch to the on position. Measure the voltage on a 12 volt DC scale. You should get a reading of 5 volts. Measure the voltage by pacing your black meter lead on the ORANGE / black wire and the red meter lead on the yellow wire. Start the vehicle with the remote starter and remeasure the voltage once again. Measure to two decimal places. ( example 3.86 volts) Now try and start the vehicle with the key. If it doesn't start DON'T turn the key off. Leave it in the on position. Measure the voltage again. The voltage MUST measure the same as when you checked it after using the remote starter. If it doesn't then the Passlock part of the igntion switch must be replaced. If the yellow wire doesn't measure 5.00 volts with ignition on then the BCM may be damaged. The integrity of your wires (ORANGE / black and yellow) must be perfect. Any resistance created by poor connections must be corrected. The BCM uses the voltage signal on the yellow wire as the value to allow the vehicle to start or not. I would strongly recommend you get your vehicle to a GM dealer somehow or another. Once there you should completely disconnect your remote starter from any ignition and Passlock wiring. The dealer will charge you to do this before they can check and repair you vehicle. You CANNOT just drop in another BCM into your vehicle. The part must be the correct one and IT MUST be programmed to the software and options your vehicle has. YOU can't do this without access to GM programming available only to GM dealers. You also require a GM tech II tool to read the vehicles software/options configuration to give to the GM computer. The tech II is then used to reprogam your vehicle's new BCM. The Passlock system then must be reprogrammed. If you take your truck to a qualified technician he should be able to quickly determine the problem and repair it because he has the proper tools to do so. Trust me I know,because I am one. Just because the truck runs with the use of your remote starter doesn't mean the BCM is getting the right info it needs. These systems can't be repaired easily and require a professional. Good luck.

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sparky

I agree with J Rilla. Sounds like a ignition switch problem. Check the two main harnesses at the ign. switch. See if the two heavy gauge red wires still show 12v. Then, have you powered your RS using the 12v wires at the ign. or direct from the battery or other source. If you have used another source, check the ign fuse(s). It's worth a try.

ok, lets see, I do have the brake wire disconnected from the RS or it does die, and I do drive around like this 24 minutes at a time (sucks) As for voltage, I checked onthe yellow and ORANGE / black wire. With ignition off I get 5.03VDC with the ignition in the on position I get 5.03VDC with the truck running on RS I get 1.30VDC, and this is all happening without the passlock bypass 555L connected. I disconnected this totally and I don't get a security light, I only get a security light when the bypass is connected. Also when I try to start the truck with the key I do here a relay clicking under the dash, but I don't know where it is coming from Lights or ignition. but something happens when I try to start with the key just not starting. I will check all my connections again and make double, triple sure I haven't pulled a wire loose or something. Do the voltages seem ok? Would this mean the BCM is ok?

A little more info, I tested some more voltage, Turn the key to the on position and checked voltage: Red lead to yellow passlock wire and black lead to ground. = 1.31 VDC. I tried to start and then checked the voltage again after trying to start and it was 1.31 VDC I then held the key in the start position for 10 seconds and released and checked the voltage, 1.31 VDC. Here is a little more info. As I have said before, the RS will start the truck if the key is on, but I just found out today that without the passlock bypass unit (555L) connected I have to actually try to start the truck and it will start with RS but if I don't try to start and only put in the on or run position it will crank and die. But with the 555L connected I don't not have to actually try to start the truck I just have to turn the key to the on or run position. I didn't get to do anything with it today,  but I am starting to think I might have a broken acc. wire or something to that effect, and not getting the power to start or something, but then again I have been thinking a lot of things about this truck lately.

Where are your power wires coming from for the remote start? Have you checked the larger fuses under the hood?

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Certified Security Specialist
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I have them connected straight to the battery. I did check the fuses under the hood and didn't find any of them blown, but I plan to check again.

How about turning the key to run and testing for power on your main power wire, ign wires, and accessory wires at the ignition harness.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

It sounds like the Passlock system isn't to blame for the truck not starting. Just to confirm though did you test the voltage on the yellow wire with the 555l disconnected (Y/N) after trying to start with just the key. I just want to know if the 555l is hooked up correctly or not. It is possible to accidently wire it up as always on. If you did check it this way try what auex suggested. There are two main battery leads to the ignition switch: red and RED / white; Ignition is pink amd white - Have 12 volts (+) during crank and run. The wire for your heater is orange- accessory. Crank or starter is yellow - larger than the passlock yellow wire. One other thing to check is if you pull the shroud off the column you can check to see that the ignition switch harness hasn't been partially pulled out. I've seen it happen before.

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sparky

Well people I hate to do this, but I think we can put this topic to rest. So saying that I would like to express my deepest thanks to all who have helped me and taught me a lot about the GM electrical system, I have the truck fixed and starts just fine with the key. I have to re-connect my 555L and see if the RS is going to work now. And I must say that I am kinda glad this happened because of the knowledge I have gotten from everyone on this vehicle and it's system. Now I will say again. THANKS to everyone. Oh, yeah, I almost forgot. This is what the problem was. (drum role)......................................"blown fuse" on ignition A. I checked all these fuses numerous times and never seen it. But I decided this afternoon I was going to pull all fuses and check continuity with my meter. and the 3rd fuse I came to tested bad, so I looked at it again and sure enough, It had a hair line crack in it. So, THANK YOU everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I am going to do my 2003 Dodge 1500 Hemi.....

Congratulations.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Glad to hear you got it working. Don't ever forget to check the simple *&$%# first. Now go and have a beer!

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sparky