What to use when tapping into wires

Ok, I've never been a big fan of scotch lock connectors.  Are they really dependable?  If they aren't, how do the pros attach the power wires to the ignition harness?  Same question for the input and output wires.

Thanks

scotch loks are one of the most dangerous things I've ever seen in a 12 volt shop.  they cut into the wire being contacted, often severing several strands in the process.  Plus, all the current is being passed across a single little tang of metal, rather than wrapped/soldered strands of wire.

Agree with the guys above...bare back a section on each wire to tap into, wrap your wire solidly on the bared spot, and heat the whole works to allow solder to penetrate both.  This guarantees a flawless, electrically sound installation.

Scotch Loks should be reserved for throwing at other idiots who choose to use them, and nothing more 

HamiltonAudio wrote:

---

Scotch Loks should be reserved for throwing at other idiots who choose to use them, and nothing more 

---

I like that, now I have something to do with the Scoth Locks, that have been lying around for almost 4 years without being used.  :)

misterjimbo wrote:

---

twist and tape!! also solder everything. also remember the bigger the glob the better the job. just kidding! dont use too much solder it just increases resistance, but make sure the solder sinks through. tin the wire on the car and the wire on the unit.

---

he he...bigger the glob...nothing can be further from the truth (as you state  )  If you heat both wires in the connection to the appropriate level, 60/40 rosin core solder will "suck itself" into the wires, bonding them..  Anything left on the surface of the wires is not only waste, but ugly ...

0.02

b

profuse007 wrote:

---

i used to use the 3m scotchlok(its sux) but now i use the 3m "t-tap" is quicker and safe(if you know how to use it right). the scotchlok seems to cut stranded wires.

its not safe when youre using a 14guage tap on a 10guage wire. i never use t-tap on ignition harness, thats a big risk.

---

I can agree to the statement "to each his own".  However, I'm sure that at any competent installation school where you were demonstrating technique, reaching for a scotch lok or t-tap before the soldering iron would get you a resounding "F".  I know during my education (learn by fire, in the shop) that if I even thought the word "scotch lok" I got whacked with a stick.  I'd likely have been fired if I tried to actually use one! 

b

Does anyone use fusion tape instead of black electrical tape? My experience is that electrical tape deteriorates over time. In general I don't like it.

scotch lock, t tap, whatever... all suck

solder, and tape with 3m 33+ tape and you will never have a problem.

profuse007 wrote:

---

yeah its sux....but if the majority installer use them, would that still sux?

---

I'm quitting the business RIGHT NOW if the majority of GOOD installers actually use those f-in dangerous things.  Also, just because a lot of people smoke crack, does it make it OK?  this sounds like the logic my young daughter might use on me... 

b

NINsane18 wrote:

---

I noticed someone had mentioned the best method of tapping into wiring was stripping the insulation off the wire, and soldering the alarm wire inline with it. What method do you guys use for that? Is there a tool out there designed for that purpose, or do you have to be patient and strip the section of wire with a utility knife (thats the method I have been using) Thanks in advance guys!

---

yes, there's a tool...its called a pair of wire strippers  :)  The ones that most installers use are the self-adjusting type that allow mid-wire stripping VERY quick and clean...a good sharp set will peel back the insulation on the heavier ignition harness wires without effort, and adjust them out to strip even the thinnest wires...

Using a utility knife leads to cursing, swearing and cut fingers 

good luck!   b

profuse007 wrote:

---

-well....not to be stressful on this subject, but....

-not to say that 3m has a patent on this and approved by UL and CSA (dont know the heck it is, but its approved...lol), so if you install it correctly with the right guage size tap then youre good to go.

-well you might object to it and say, "anyone can get a patent, but its just a lousy product"

-all in all, you have to admit its a good product. it saves a lots of times. you mentioned it urself that utilty knives sucks, so 3m is the way to go.....
-but again, i dont use this through out the whole installation.

---

Certified - who cares? 

Patented - who cares? 

Good Product - nope! 

Utility Knives suck - yep!

Actually, if you read the entire post, I did say that utility knives suck for trying to strip back a section of wire in-line (and they do).  However, using the proper stripping tool allows you to make clean, perfect strips in-line in about 0.5 seconds.  Then having a nice hot soldering iron (I use a Weller Portasol), soldering even the larger wires takes about 1 second.  Then while the connection is still warm/hot, do the wrap-and-stretch technique with good quality electrical tape (double wrap on ignition leads) and you'll NEVER EVER have a problem.

So lets round these values up....1.5 seconds to do a good strip, then add another 1.5 seconds to solder with a hot iron.  Yep, I'll spend 3 seconds to ensure there is no mechanical fastener in ANY of my installs.  But the moral of the story is....IF YOU HAVE GOOD QUALITY, APPROPRIATE TOOLS, YOU DON'T NEED CHEAPO SCOTCH LOKS.....

<end rant>  he he

b 

radio shack sells 2 different sire strippers for pulling back the insulation on wires, heres one https://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F009%5F002%5F000&product%5fid=64%2D1919 .  its pretty cheap but so are some of the connection methods posted here.  i prefer the snap-on or matco strippers that automatically take care of the gauge and then press to strip.  radio shack carries that kind too but mine fell apart.  if i ever used any other method than solder and tape, id get slapped and fired.  scotch loc connectors will often cut the wire, but hey, some people think its ok to use wire nuts to put a deck in.

Bulldog security makes a harness that you plugs in to the ignition harness and it has all the wires ready  they call it a T harness.  Has anyone used these?   Are they worth the $15-20 that they sell for ? 

hey sroth140...I was the same when working in a pro shop as a younger fella...the first thing I was told was to be on time and be courteous.  the second thing I was told (in my first 10 minutes of work) was that if I was caught with a scotch-lok in my HAND, let alone use one, the owner would beat me silly, shoot me, THEN fire me and ensure I never worked in our town again.

but to your point...some DO agree that scotch-loks are the way to go...no sure why, but they are entitled to their opinion.  If you can honestly prove that a scotch-lok is a more secure, reliable and trouble free method of connecting than the old strip/solder/tape method, I'd LOVE to hear it!!!!! 

Ok everyone has an opinion on which is the proper way to connect two wires together. I think that solder has it's advantages and of course it's disadvantages. Some have said that it does not take but a couple seconds to strip,wrap,heat and solder...cool then wrap with black tape.. Personally I can not do this in 3 seconds or even in 30 seconds on 90% of the cars out there. I have personally used 3M scotchLoks for about fourteen years. I have have never had a problem with these items however I do not use them for high current draw applications. i.e. remote start units and the such. Where I believe that the risks of overheating or possible fire just are not worth taking a chance. However I think they work great for attaching many other types of connections that are not dealing with prolonged high current draw.

And just for everyone's knowledge just about anyone CAN get a patent. But to get a UL listing products are put to very strict testing to ensure our safety....That is of course if the product was installed properly.

Just my two cents.

you can't strip a wire, connect, solder and tape inside of 30 seconds?  man!  :) :) :)  I would say, being honest and assuming that the iron is hot (it always is), that this procedure takes under 15 seconds for the whole thing.  In the end, I can pull on that connection and the wire will break before the connection does.

To the guy speaking about a shop banging out a car in 45 minutes.  It makes me nervous that a shop is interested in production-line style business.  It is my belief that every car should have the car taken to ensure that the customer doesn't have to come back because something was overlooked, missed or otherwise botched.  A  good remote start install (including security bypass and locks) is in the 2 hour range, not 45 minutes.  They must be doing a few things there....1.  rushing ( a huge no-no)  2.  using quick mechanical fasteners (again, a no-no)  3.  doing the same model car over and over.

The shop I worked at had some dealership business too, installing cheap stereos and speakers for sale as "factory" items.  I was able to get the install down pretty quick cause it was the identical model over and over, but never like the one you speak of....

0.02

b