I noticed in your "general info / charts" section you had a chart for a 2000 Chevy Suburban for installing a remote start. Would this chart be applicable to a 1997 suburban? I am preparing to install an alarm/RS system.
Also, What should I look out for during this installation? I do not want to deploy an airbag or short out a computer etc.
I have a 97 Chevy Suburban that I am installing a remote start in. It has a factory remote door lock and unlock system installed. I was wondering if I could tie into that system instead of installing relays and connecting to the lock button? I have no Idea where the factory lock system is mounted either.
I have a 97 Chevy Suburban that I am installing a remote start in. It has a factory remote door lock system installed. I was wondering if I could tie into the factory door lock system instead of installing relays and connecting to the lock button for my remote start? I have no Idea where the factory lock system is mounted either.
I dont think you can tap into the factory keyless entry system. But on the other hand, you wont have to go into the door on the lock swith either. You can tie in at the factory relays, which are usually in the dash to the right of the steering column. To help you find them, keep locking and unlocking the doors with the lock swith, and you should hear the relays clicking in the dash. Hope this helps!
Thanks. I will try that.
The following are notes from installing a crimestopper CS-2015FM1TW1 in my 1997 Chevy Surburban:
I found the factory remote door lock module as you directed. I also found a duel relay external to the main module that locked and unlocked all doors. I tied into these for my lock / unlock function.
I found a horn relay in the relay box under the hood just in front of the drivers seat. I was able to tie into that for the horn.
I was able to easily get to the ignition wiring by removing the decorative panel below the stearing column and a mounting plate for the lower air duct. The wires were as described above and the starter wire was yellow.
I was able to get to the headlight wiring by removing the fuse box on the drivers side of the dash and pushing it out of the way. Unplugging the light switch was easier than plugging it back in. I had to use two screw drivers. I could not reach it by hand. You are able to pull the harness out the fuse box hole to solder the connections though.
There are two 30 amp fused 12 volt power blocks on the side of the relay box under the hood mentioned above. I used these for the two power connections.
You have to install the supplied hood pin. The hood light turns on and off with a gravity switch in the light itself. In other words, there is no factory ground pin that can be used.
I mounted the controls box below the stearing column just to the left of the break peddle as high up as I could get it. I had to fabricate a standoff plate because of a molded ripple in the upper floor board. This might not be a good place for the control box if you are extra tall. I do not have that problem and am not able to reach it with my feet. It would be easy to fabricate a shield over it if you are worried about installing it there.
I soldered all my connections as directed. I was able to install the unit without using any new relays.
I am very pleased with the crimestopper unit. It has better range than any other remote start that I found and it is two way so it gives you indication when your car actually starts, goes into alarm, etc. I purchased it at Millionbuy.com for $139. Suggested Retail Price is $350.
Thanks to PROFUSE007 and CUTDOG504 for their help.
Just an added note: The duel relay for door lock and unlock. Connect to the white wire for unlock and the blue wire for lock. both require a + 12 volt pulse. These two wires are on either side of the plug.