Factory Alarm Headache, Car wont start!
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=22725
Printed Date: July 06, 2025 at 11:38 PM
Topic: Factory Alarm Headache, Car wont start!
Posted By: s0ber
Subject: Factory Alarm Headache, Car wont start!
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 9:23 PM
To make a long story short my car was stolen, recovered, it turned over fine with a screwdriver(eh), but once I got the ignition replaced it doesn't turn over anymore... I had a friend check it who's farily familar with alarms/electronics etc... The ignition is fine, the starter wire turns on fine but it just wont turn, we tested it all with a test light... We rigged up the starter to a postitive instead of using the one that comes from the ignition, and it turns, just doesn't turn on... We came to the conclusion that the factory alarm is activated somehow... The car is a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE, I would like to know how to turn off the factory alarm, we tested the injectors and they dont recieve any power, the factory alarm is cutting off all the power... I checked in the Factory Service Manual, in the BCM I have to ground terminal 10 to disengage the alarm, I dont know why it doesn't turn off with the key in the door cylinder... Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, thanks guys..... -s0ber
Replies:
Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 9:34 PM
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms w/ unlock | | |need a single pulse to disarm
| DISARM DEFEAT|brown | |in passenger door at switch |
you dont have a factory remote for this?
i believe when the factory alarm goes off or activated the starter kill relay(it only make sense if you have it) activate and the starter wont turn.
my info doesnt say anything about disarming at the door.
-------------
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: s0ber
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 9:39 PM
profuse007 wrote:
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms w/ unlock | | |need a single pulse to disarm
| DISARM DEFEAT|brown | |in passenger door at switch |
you dont have a factory remote for this?
i believe when the factory alarm goes off or activated the starter kill relay(it only make sense if you have it) activate and the starter wont turn.
my info doesnt say anything about disarming at the door.
Yes I have a remote, but after I got my car back(stolen) it never worked again, to re-program it I would need to stick the key in the ignition 6 times in and out and the hazards would flash, but with the new ignition it doesn't work anymore.
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 9:54 PM
Hold on, the wires that are mentioned are for a keyless entry tie in, they are not the wires you need. You need to send a single (as in 1) ground pulse through the unlock wire in the door, according to techsoft-
POWER UNLOCK|GREEN/ YELLOW *1 |- |in drivers door at switch
FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms w/ unlock | |
It should disarm when the key is used in the door, it sounds like there are other problems here. First and foremost you need to go through and check all of the fuses for the fuel pump, ignition, bcm, and any other computer related fuses. Car's run on three things, fuel, air, and spark. If the ignition isn't powering up the fuel pump or sending power to the distributor then there are other problems. If you can get the engine's starter going and it still won't start up with the key in run then there are other problem's. The factory alarm may have a starter kill or an ignition kill but I don't think it has both.
-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
Posted By: s0ber
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 10:00 PM
auex]H wrote:
ld on, the wires that are mentioned are for a keyless entry tie in, they are not the wires you need. You need to send a single (as in 1) ground pulse through the unlock wire in the door, according to techsoft-
POWER UNLOCK|GREEN/ YELLOW *1 |- |in drivers door at switch
FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms w/ unlock | |
It should disarm when the key is used in the door, it sounds like there are other problems here. First and foremost you need to go through and check all of the fuses for the fuel pump, ignition, bcm, and any other computer related fuses. Car's run on three things, fuel, air, and spark. If the ignition isn't powering up the fuel pump or sending power to the distributor then there are other problems. If you can get the engine's starter going and it still won't start up with the key in run then there are other problem's. The factory alarm may have a starter kill or an ignition kill but I don't think it has both.
We checked all the fuses and relays it SEEMS that the ignition is fine, relays click and all.. Just the power is not getting to the starter, when we rigged it so it turns it there was no fuel, dont factory immobilzers cut off the engine computer when there activated? That would be a reason for the injectors not recieving any power.... Im my factory service manual it says to disarm you have to ground terminal 10 on the BCM, but that would be the same as putting the key in the door and turning it... I still dont understand why it wouldn't disarm...... When I shut the door the SECURITY light blinks every second, before when it was FUNCTIONAL it would blink for 15 seconds, then slow down... But now it just keeps blinking... Wow im stumped
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 10:06 PM
You did check the fuses under the hood and in the car, every fuse, right? Just curious, does your radio or a/c come on with the key? Take a multimeter and check for power at the fuel pump and at the injectors to double check. Also do you know of any other damage that was done when it was stolen, like other wiring, computer or anything else relative to the situtation? You should go buy a cheap meter and test the voltage of the ignition wires to make sure that everything is working.And no they don't cut the computer, they will either cut the ignition system(fuel pump and distributor) or the starter circuit, most do not cut both.
-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
Posted By: s0ber
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 10:12 PM
Every single fused was checked and in working order, even pulled out the fuse box and checked the starter in the back, fuel pump fuse all is fine... My radio and A/C turn on fine.. The car started perfectly with the screwdriver(they popped the ignition).. I let it sit for a few weeks, got the ignition replaced(battery was dead at the time I dont know why) and now it doesn't start. Relays click but no crank... injectors are not receiving any power either... I had the locksmith come back after I charged up the battery(it died again...) to make sure the ignition was in working order and he said all was fine... The reason why I think its the security is that the light doesn't stop blinking either, when I close all the doors the light just keeps blinking every second, before it was like every 2 or 3 seconds...
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 10:23 PM
Unfortunately, the next step is taking it to a dealership to have it checked out. Try closing the door and locking it with the key and see what the security light does. Then unlock it with the key and then try it. How did the thieves get into the car? They may have damaged some of the wiring in the door if they broke out the handle or used a slim jim (could have pulled a plug loose or something causing the key cylinder not disarming the alarm)? Take the driver's door panel off, or if you can just get to the lock switch, and try sending a ground through the GREEN/ YELLOW wire for the unlock to try to disarm the factory alarm.
-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
Posted By: s0ber
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 10:27 PM
auex]U wrote:
fortunately, the next step is taking it to a dealership to have it checked out. Try closing the door and locking it with the key and see what the security light does. Then unlock it with the key and then try it. How did the thieves get into the car? They may have damaged some of the wiring in the door if they broke out the handle or used a slim jim (could have pulled a plug loose or something causing the key cylinder not disarming the alarm)? Take the driver's door panel off, or if you can just get to the lock switch, and try sending a ground through the GREEN/ YELLOW wire for the unlock to try to disarm the factory alarm.
Yeah the thing is that it worked after I got the car back(with the ignition popped off I stuck a screwdriver and it turned on fine... After I got the ignition replaced is when it started happening... They broke a window to get into the car.. What im going to do tomorrow is try to do what the factory service manual and ground terminal 10 to disarm... If that doesn't work.. I guess i'll have to get it towed to the dealer :( Thanks for the advice!
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: December 11, 2003 at 10:31 PM
I understand that it worked with a screwdriver with the ignition popped. Something happened between that and the locksmith, so if it turns out that the locksmith is wrong then you should consider getting reimbursed from him.
-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
Posted By: s0ber
Date Posted: December 12, 2003 at 10:09 AM
Would the engine computer being burned cause the starter not to crank?
Posted By: wiretapper
Date Posted: December 12, 2003 at 10:15 AM
Sounds to me like they installed the wrong ign. switch. If it's killing the batt. now, you most likey have a current drain from a possible miss-wired switch. I'm not going to go into details now, but do a current drain test on ALL the ignition, starter, and security fuses in the veh. Remember...a battery doesn't drain itself that fast. And it's very possible that the BCM took a dump and is the cause of the current drain. That could be why you're getting no response from the sec light.
Posted By: s0ber
Date Posted: December 12, 2003 at 10:40 AM
wiretapper wrote:
Sounds to me like they installed the wrong ign. switch. If it's killing the batt. now, you most likey have a current drain from a possible miss-wired switch. I'm not going to go into details now, but do a current drain test on ALL the ignition, starter, and security fuses in the veh. Remember...a battery doesn't drain itself that fast. And it's very possible that the BCM took a dump and is the cause of the current drain. That could be why you're getting no response from the sec light.
The battery was already dead when the locksmith got there, so I cant blame him for the battery dying.. I CAN blame him for the car not starting though... It SEEMS like he did the job like he was supposed to.. All relays click, traced the starter wire to the fusebox and it recieves power there... Its just not reaching the starter itself..
|