Valet 551T vs. Viper 300ESP
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=22919
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 10:59 PM
Topic: Valet 551T vs. Viper 300ESP
Posted By: Patriot141
Subject: Valet 551T vs. Viper 300ESP
Date Posted: December 16, 2003 at 4:15 PM
Valet 551T vs Viper 300ESP
The Viper was previously installed works great. I just finished the remote start install. Had trouble with the 555H immobilizer but I finally got that all squared away with ya’alls help. Now I obviously miswired something on the RS. With the alarm off the RS works great except the doors lock immediately and will not unlock with my Viper remotes. Actually, nothing on the Viper will work after the car has been started with the RS. If I set the alarm and try to remote start, The starter will turn over, no start and the alarm sounds. I suspect the problem is with The H1/3 Yellow wire from the 551T (+) Ignition (output to security system). I currently have that hooked up to the Yellow H1/9 (+) Ignition input, zone 5 on the Viper. I sure could use some expert help and advice.
The car is a 200 Honda Accord.
Thanks…
Replies:
Posted By: Ohmz
Date Posted: December 16, 2003 at 7:26 PM
it sounds like you have it connected correctly. Maybe you need to reset the whole system by unplugging all the brains. Also check how your starter wire is connected. You may have the start side from the RS to the wrong side of your starter kill!
Posted By: CutDog504
Date Posted: December 16, 2003 at 9:06 PM
I agree with Ohmz about the starter kill relay. Double check that. Another thing you might wanna check is the shock sensor. The vibration from the engine cranking might be triggering the shock sensor. When the alarm is triggered, the led will blonk a certain number of times after you disarm it. This is to tell you what zone was triggered. Say it blinks 3 times, then pauses, then blinks 3 times again, then zone 3 was triggered. Find out what zone is triggering your alarm then go from there to specifically diagnose your problem. Also look in the viper manual to know what zones are what. Like is the shock sensor prewarn zone 1, the shock sensor trigger zone 2, the doors zone 3, and so on. Check yer manual to make sure. The installation manual should also explain how to bypass the shock sensor during remote start. Because if I remeber correctly, the 300esp has the shock sensor built into the brain. The only way to bypass it is by using the status output wire from the 551t and connecting it to the blue instant trigger wire on the 300esp. The viper installation manual explains this in much more detail. If you no longer have your viper installation manual you can download one for free at www.viper.com Hope this info helps you out!
Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: December 16, 2003 at 9:39 PM
As CutDog said, you can hook the status output wire on the remote start up to the blue instant trigger wire on the alarm. When an auxiliary input from the 300ESP is used, the alarm bypasses all sensors for 5 seconds; if the instant trigger is grounded during that time, it will continue to bypass everything except the door trigger until the ground is removed(i.e. when the remote start shuts down).
Make sure you diode isolate the two wires going to the status output at this point.
I would also suggest hooking the ignition trigger from the alarm straight to the car's ignition wire; DEI's ignition outputs from the remote starts are kind of like a mystery wire - the manuals I've read don't give a good explanation of what the wire does or where it's supposed to go.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: December 16, 2003 at 9:49 PM
[QUOTE] I would also suggest hooking the ignition trigger from the alarm straight to the car's ignition wire; DEI's ignition outputs from the remote starts are kind of like a mystery wire - the manuals I've read don't give a good explanation of what the wire does or where it's supposed to go. [/QUOTE]
The thin yellow ignition output can be connected to the ignition input of the alarm brain. It will show ignition any time the ignition is on EXCEPT when the vehicle is remote started. Its purpose is to prevent the alarm from triggering because of seeing ignition when the vehicle is remote started
Easy way to figure out how the alarm is getting triggered when remote starting is to check how many times the led flashes after you disarm the alarm and turn the key on. It will flash a sequence which will indicate which zone was triggered
Posted By: Patriot141
Date Posted: December 19, 2003 at 3:24 PM
Sorry it took so long to get back with everyone, this was the first chance I had to get back to work on this thing. OMEZ was right on, when I checked the connection from the remote start the relay harness I had it connected prior to the starter kill relay instead of after. It was ZONE 5 causing the alarm to sound for sure. I had (and still do) just the blues from the 551T and the 555H connected together. I'm not using the instant trigger input at all on the 300ESP and it seems to be good EXCEPT ... I have two more small problems; I think the first should be a simple diode to install somewhere. EVERYTHING works great except when I cancel the remote start in ANY way, while the car is armed, THE DOORS UNLOCK. The alarm does stay armed, just the doors are unlocked. ALSO maybe related, if I disarm while the car is running with remote start, I have to HOLD the arm button for about 2 to 3 seconds before the car will rearm. This part may be normal, just wondering. Thanks a bunch.
Posted By: Patriot141
Date Posted: December 19, 2003 at 4:05 PM
I just realized the first problem is controlled with the ignition controlled door locks on the main brain. That can not be changed without a bitwriter according to my instructions. Is there anyhting else that I could do to stop the unlocking?
Posted By: Patriot141
Date Posted: December 19, 2003 at 5:42 PM
I just had a thought, and yes it did hurt. Could I maybe insert a relay on the unlock wire which leads from the300 ESP? The wiring would be: 85 +12V fused, 86 -200 ma Status Ouput from remote start module (blue) 87a unlock (Green), 30 Unlock from 300 ESP (green) Thanks for any input
Posted By: CutDog504
Date Posted: December 29, 2003 at 11:24 AM
You can change the ign controlled doorlocks without a bitwriter on a 300esp. You need to read the installation manual (not the ownwers manual) and look and the features pragramming sections.
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