Power Window Roll-Up Problem

I have a 95 Camaro that I installed a Commando FM-870 alarm along w/ window roll-up modules. My problem is that I hooked up the "UP" module to the - pulse wire from the alarm that is labeled "Grounded output when armed". When I arm the alarm the windows roll up, only problem is that since the module is on the whole time if I roll the windows down I cannot roll them up again unless I disarm the alarm. I wanted to hook up the module to the - "door lock" wire, only problem is that the wire sends a 3 second pulse and that would not be long enough for the windows to roll up. Is there anyway I can hook up a relay (time delay, switching, etc.) so that the - pulse wire from the "door lock" would switch over and let the power from the "grounded when armed" make the roll up module work for longer than 3 seconds (programmable time delay? SCR ?) so the windows will roll up and not keep the module latched off.

The window module should have a pulse stretcher on it if not youll have to find one that does.

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Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician

If you have any free outputs from the alarm you can wire a relay to break contact of the ground when amred wire betweet the alarm and window module. This way if you roll the windows down and want to roll them back up without disarming the alarm all you would have to do is to activate the channel.

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Certified Security Specialist
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Thanks guys for the input (no pun intended :)  Anyways how would I go about hooking up the relay to break contact, I think I have an idea of what you are talking about.

Well thanks everybody i just finished installing the relay in betrween the output from the alarm and the roll up module. Everything works great, no stuck down windows when armed. I hooked up the realy in the same manner as the diagram for starter kill.

I installed the roll up modules on my car and everything works great except for some off-timing. The passenger window rolls up a good second ot two after the driver side window is all the way up. The module is installed behind the driver kick panel, I figure this has something to do with it because there is more wire for the electricity to travel from the module to the window motor but i doubt it would have much effect, or would it? Is there anything I can do to remedy this?

I would first start by varifying that both window sills are clean and free of any dirt or contamination on the inner felt liners, and tracks.

Second, varify that each window regulators motion of travel is the same.

ie. If the window takes longer to raise up, while the vehicle is not running. But raises the same amount of time while the actual vehicle is in operation.

Then that can be several area's to look at.

1. Lack of power or drive. = Inspect regulator, lube / oil inner tracks, gear teeth.
2. Contamination of the window tracks, felt, or guide rails. = Clean, lubricate, or repair.
3. Window deflection to the frame, or if the window is frame less, than the amount of deflection or pressure applied to the rubber gasket of the body. = Clean, Adjust, repair...
4. Varify the current draw from the unit, and measure the voltage drop at the battery while this is occuring. This could be as simple as a tired old battery, assuming this occures only when the vehicle is off.

These are just some common things you should look at first.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

The power windows are about 3 months old, i bought them from electric-life. I am going to clean the regulator channels as that is the first thing that i can think of. If that is not the problem could it be the wires? I am using Radio Shack Premium stranded speaker wire, the stuff that is like $19 for 50ft.

P.S. The problem happens regardless of whether the car is running or not.

As I stated before, varify that the window(s) are free of any defects or mechanical binding.

Whether that be from dirt contamination, lack of lubrication in the guides, or rails, or simply out of adjustment.

Using a combination of lithium grease, dry graphite, or similar lubrication solutions will provide you with the most effective methods in keeping the drives free.

Remember, if the rubber gaskets are worn, or are dryed out, you will need to either replace, or apply rubber restorer, to reduce the amount of drag that is being applied to the window.


If the window is out of adjustment, then you will of course need to change the amount of deflection in the window pane to the body.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .