Clifford G5 2000 Blazer

I had a question concerning how Passlock2 works.  How exactly does it work?  I thought it might be something in the key, buy I noticed my mom has a plain metal key for my blazer and it starts the car fine.  Does it work in some other way im not familiar with, or is it just not present?

I thought it had something to do with resistance being found between two of the wires in the steering column, but what determines the resistance, I thought it was the key.  If it isnt, than what does it use?  If its not the key it seems somewhat worthless to me.

2000 Blazer ZR2

livewire 1096 wrote:

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blah, blah you will cut wires because the 555l won't work

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According to its instructions it does.

excuse me, if you don't cut the wire it won't work

after you hook the 555L up, make sure you start the car with the key and let it run for a few secondws before you remote start it.

;)

sroth140 wrote:

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after you hook the 555L up, make sure you start the car with the key and let it run for a few secondws before you remote start it.

;)

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Thanks.

auex]O wrote:

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, first just to get it out of the way, You must cut the r-code wire to install the 555l or it won't work. The r-code wire must be cut, and there are not harnesses available for this.

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Well one isnt bad.  Id end up cutting all my wires because I wouldnt buy a harness anyway.

So im in the process of wiring this clifford avantguard 5 up, and I sourced some dei/code alarm wiring sheets.  Well, I came to find out the DEI sheet was wrong on the passanger door trigger.  No problem, I found it.

I wired the two into the negative door trigger, isolated with 1 amp 50v diodes found at radioshack for 69 cents, done the same way shown in the basic connections section on this site.

Now when I try to test the pin in the alarm's harness, im not getting any current.  I was using a test light, because my multimeter was acting funny.  I think it needs batteries.

Should it be doing this, or should I be testing it another way?

Also, after installing the door trigger wire my service 4wd light wont go off ( I was using it earler that day due to heavy rain).From what I understand The door trigger wires lead to the pcd, which controls everything except the engine.  It could be a fluke though, Im not sure.  Glad I have an extended warranty.

Make sure you have the correct wire. You say you wired the two into the trigger isolated with a diode? According to this info there is only one door trigger wire.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=2000&make=Chevrolet&model=Blazer%20S-Series&ID=17367&type=Alarm

I have a diode from each door trigger wire, then they all come together into the alarm - door trigger wire.  According to the dei sheet, in the footnotes it lists all of the door trigger wires and their locations at the pcm.  I double checked them all with the test light to confirm. 

Otherwise it says to use the dome light, but im having problems finding the dome light wire, and I thought their might be some problems since the dome light stays on after you get out of the car.

The 1998 Blazer should have the same wiring diagram as the 2000, but make sure you get a digital multimeter when you test any wires.At the BCM the driver front door trigger is in the purple plug(tan wire (-) ) & the passenger door trigger is also at the purple plug (orange wire (-) ) The driver door trigger should cover both front doors(on 4door blazers)check with your digital meter by closing the driver front door and opening the passenger front door if your DMM reads (-) then you just use the tan wire at the purple plug. The driver,passenger rear doors & hatch triggers you will find it at the lite blue plug (dark blue with white stripe(-) ) Make sure if you are using those three wires you isolate them with three 1amp diodes. If you use two wires off the BCM isolate them with two 1amp diodes.The stripe on the diode is were negative current passes thru  (Cathode) so your going to connect the 3 or 2 diodes with the stripe of the diodes going to the wires on the BCM. Hope I help you out good luck and remember to always use a DMM.

The car is a two door.

Ive got the drivers door and the rear hatch trigger showing ground when theyre opened. 

There are two orange wires in the purple plug are not the correct wires, meaning their polarity does not change when the passanger door is opened.  I found another, I cant remember which color though (im not currently near the truck, I left it at my cousin's house in it's "stuck in 4WD" condition) that changes polarity when the passanger door is opened, so I used it instead. 

Like I said earlier, my dmm wasnt working correctly, not to mention im not to handy with them.  Half the time I dont know what Im supposed to be looking at.

The car does have the domelight over ride button.  Also, when the word kickpaned is mentioned, this must mean the general area, because none of the wires are actually behind the kick panel, but above the driver's left foot in a huge plug near the parking brake.

Also, the bcm/pcm, whichever you prefer, is located right in front of the center console, mounted tot he bottom of the dash.  Everything has been smooth until this recent 4WD problem, and the wire at the alarm plug not showing a (-) when either door is opened.  I forgot to check the tailgate wire though.  I wonder if it has something to do with those diodes...

Id also like to thank everyone for responding.

WEll, I finished up all of the wiring tonight, door truggers work fine and all.

My new problem is the car will not start at all.  The alarm itself has an auto immobilizer feature on it, cutting power to the starter and ignition (1) wire if it goes off.  My problem is, with the alarm hooked up, when I turn the key on the ignition wire is not getting power.  It gets power going into the immobilizer harness, but not coming out of it, UNLESS im cranking the motor. As soon as I stop cranking power ceases.  I unplugged every harness, and routed things back to they would have been before the install, and the car still doesent start.  I just spent the past two hours double checking everything.

Tomorrow ill wake up and triple/quadruple check everything.  This is really starting to get on my nerves.

Another problem im having is wiring the tach input wire for the remote start.  One of my wire sheets says to take the signal from the white wire at the ECM in the red plug.  Well theres two white wire, and theyre not in a very proble friendly spot.  The other says to take the signal off of the COIL from a white wire.  Well, they eres two plugs on the coil.  One goes directly into the coil itself, but has no white wire, just a WHITE/ black.  However, there is a small module on the side of the coil, which does have a white wire going into it, but im not sure if I can use it.

Also, does anyone know if there some kind of support line for DEI products?  I know Clifford's are supposed to be professionally installed, so I have this gut feeling I might be SOL.

When you tested the system, was it armed ?? Make sure that the system is disarmed otherwise the internal immobilizer relays will always be on if the system is armed. Another thought would be to not use the internal immobilizer harness and wire in external relays for the starter and the ignition wires by using the (-) when armed.

The tach wire on the Blazer ia at the PCM  located on the passenger fender. On the 2.2L the wire is in a black 80 pin plug pin 10, and on the 4.3L the wire is in a red 32 pin plug pin 20. If you can not get a probe into this spot what you do is take an exacto or utility knofe and slice a small peice of the top of the target wire ( enough to expose the copper strands ) and then meter the wire from there.

I think the best support will come from this site. I am not fond of the support from the DEI website or their phone in services. There are many knowledgable installer's on this site that can and will be better help than those guys over at DEI, especially if your not a dealer for them.

The alarm was not armed.

Thats why its confusing me.  The internal immobilizer is allowing power to get through the starter wire when cranking, but not the ign wire when the car is on.  The only time power goes through the ouptut side of the ign is when cranking.

Ill check the two wires when I get access to a working multimeter.