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Trunk Pop, 03 Grand Am

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=23445
Printed Date: July 22, 2025 at 12:55 PM


Topic: Trunk Pop, 03 Grand Am

Posted By: AlanJE
Subject: Trunk Pop, 03 Grand Am
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 4:31 PM

Ok I am trying to hook up the trunk pop on a Valet 554R on an 03 Grand Am. I am using the Violet/Black wire which provides a (-) output. I am using this wire because I dont want to hold the button on the remote to pop the trunk. Does anyone know how to wire the relay for this and which wires to grab from the car?. I have found the WHITE/ Black wire in the driver kick. But what about the orange wire? thats only for the trunk light correct, so I could just leave it alone? Also I know I have the channel correct becuase when I click the AUX button the trunk pop shows up on the LCD remote. But I dont hear any click comming from the relay how to I wire this?

Thanxs

Alan




Replies:

Posted By: auex
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 4:50 PM
If you need a positive output then here is a diagram

posted_image

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
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I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 5:33 PM
Alan,

It says you have a power trunk release in that model year, is this not correct?

The wire is black at the Lt.Gray plug at BCM, and is a negative (-) wire.

If the trunk pop is positive then use what *Auex* has provided as the method of hooking up the relay to the 554R module.

If it is a negative trunk pop, then wire it like this.

85 = From 554R Valet module

86 = To +12 volt constant, fused at 10 amps

87 = To trunk pop wire

30 = Chassis ground (-)

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .




Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 6:41 PM
"I have found the WHITE/ Black wire in the driver kick. But what about the orange wire?"

The wire you want is BLACK/ WHITE (-) (or in rare cases just black) in the driver kick. (ALWAYS test to be sure!) It will be in the harness coming in from the driver door. (the trunk button is in the door) It's in the same harness that has the white lock/unlock wire and the GREEN/ black driver door trigger if you tapped those. Not sure what type of output the violet/black is current wise but as long as it's a 400ma or so it should be fine since it's just a switch wire, which would mean no relay needed. If your not sure on the current you may want to add a relay just to be safe. You would hook the relay up like so:

posted_image


Good luck,

Mike




Posted By: AlanJE
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 6:42 PM

ok the wire comming off the RS is (-) and the trunk wire is (+) so I would do the following;

85 = 554R

86 = 12v Const

30 = 12v Const

87 = trunk pop wire

but I was pretty sure that the wire for the trunk release was at the drivers kick BLACK/ white. because when I hit the button on the drivers door the DMM reads +12volt. 

I am not hearing any click on the relay....what could be causing this?

Thanxs

Alan





Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 6:45 PM
Mike,

I always love your pictures !! posted_image




Posted By: AlanJE
Date Posted: December 27, 2003 at 6:54 PM

Ok Mike I must have been posting about the same time you did so I missed what you wrote. I think you solved some of my problems, I think I have some wires going to the wrong pin. I will need to try what you have told me. The trigger wire comming from the RS is only 200 mA meaning I would need the relay. But correct me if I am wrong, when I hit the button on the remote, I should hear a "click" from the relay?

Thanxs

Alan





Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: December 28, 2003 at 10:48 AM

Teken] wrote:

I always love your pictures !!




Thanks! posted_image I try to whip one up whenever I have the chance to help those visual learners out there..

AlanJE wrote:

But correct me if I am wrong, when I hit the button on the remote, I should hear a "click" from the relay?




If the violet/black is a negative out, then hook that to pin 85 and hook pin 86 to 12v constant. Hit the button that activates the violet/black output, and the relay should "click". If you can't hear the click hold your hand around the relay and you can feel the "click". If not, you either have a bad connection, a bad relay, or you fried the violet/black output.

Also, what button are you hitting on the remote? Just hitting the AUX button will activate the RED / white aux wire. To activate the violet/black wire, you need to hit both the aux and panic buttons together.

One other thing I want to mention is you should double check the BLACK/ white wire coming in from the switch. You say it tested 12v when you press the button, but every one of these I've ever seen has been negative. Sometimes quick pulse wires like that can be tough to test. Not saying it's not possible that it's positive, just take a minute and double check to verify your results.

Let us know how you make out..Good luck,

Mike






Posted By: AlanJE
Date Posted: December 28, 2003 at 12:27 PM

Ok I was correct on the trunk wire but wrong on the polarity, Mike yes it is negative, when I hit the trunk button it drops from 12v to 0v.  Ok this is were I am when I click AUX to activate the red wire nothing works, I am not sure how to test if I am getting anything but this is what I am doing to test anything comming from that wire. Set DMM to A set dial to 200mA put the red lead to the RED / white wire and the black lead to ground and click the AUX button on the remote. I get nothing. I do the same for the Violet/Black wire and when I click AUX and Panic I get again nothing. I know the relay works because I hooked up the GREEN/ black wire that pulses the factory alarm system when remote start is activated to pin 85 and when remote start began.......bing the trunk poped.  I am not sure now if this is somthing about programing the remote but I have done that like 4 times and I am pretty sure it is working.  Is is possible that by hooking up the relay wrong I could have fried the wires meaning both the RED / white and the violet/black if so I am SOL?

Thanxs

Alan





Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: December 28, 2003 at 7:14 PM
"I know the relay works because I hooked up the GREEN/ black wire that pulses the factory alarm system when remote start is activated to pin 85 and when remote start began.......bing the trunk poped."

So everything else the same if you disconnect the wire from the GREEN/ black and put it to the violet/black or RED / white wire and hit the corresponding remote buttons, the trunk doesn't pop? If that's the case then I would say the only real options are that those outputs are not putting out, or you are hitting the wrong buttons (remember to trigger the RED / white you need to HOLD the aux button. When you hit/hold the button on the remote does it still show the trunk pop on the lcd remote?

"Is is possible that by hooking up the relay wrong I could have fried the wires meaning both the RED / white and the violet/black if so I am SOL?"

Possibly, but if you only had the outputs to pins 85 or 86 I can't see it causing any damage regardless of how the rest of the relay was wired. If you tried tapping the 200ma outputs directly to the BLACK/ white wire that could have screwed up the outputs as well. Try putting your black test lead to ground and setting it to read ohms/continuity and trigger those outputs to see if you get any sort of reading. Good luck,

Mike




Posted By: AlanJE
Date Posted: December 28, 2003 at 7:57 PM

Thanxs Mike I will wait till I go to my dads shop on wednesday and test for ohms/continuity since he has one of those really nice snap-on computer systems that are exreamly sensative. It could, I guess be possible that my DMM is not sensative enough to pick up the pulse. I just want to test to make sure I have everything programed correct......I will let you know what turns out.....if however, the outputs are fried, do you know of any repair program DEI has?

Thanxs

Alan






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