steering column and factory alarm problem

The car is a 96 Ford Taurus and the problem all started when the slider rod in the steering column broke and you couldn't start the car by turning the key. To get the car home I removed the ignition switch from the column and moved it by hand and it started right up. I removed the lock cylinder to see if I could see the problem. No luck. I went to start the car without the key cylinder (the column was stuck in the run position) using the ignition switch. The anti theft light came on and the car would start and run for a second. I couldn't put the cylinder back in becaus something moved in the column and prevented me from putting it back in. I went and bought a used column (it came with the lock cylinder and keys) and put it in. Same problem, the theft light comes on and the car will crank and start for a second then die. I took all the electronic stuff off the old column and put it on the new (used) one and had the same problem. Now the horn also beeps. When I took the fuse out for the alarm the car still wouldn't start but the horn doesn't beep any more. Is there a way to reset the alarm or just bypass it.

I am not sure how that years ford alarm system is done, but I would belive that if you just wanted to bypass the alarm you could by the aftermarket alarm module that would be used to bypass the ford alarm to install a new alarm and instead of hooking it to alarm output just ground that lead.Also I know about that year GM used a system where the key had a resistor in it, and if Ford done the same thing all you need to do is take your old key and read the ohm and intstall that size in your car.

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bassop

I already have an aftermarket alarm in the car.The problem is with the factory one.How can I bypass it.

The best "fix" is to have the dealer program another transponder key into your car's computer.

The car dosen't have a chip in the key.Is there some other way they have it set up in the key.

ttt

Pink/White in the drivers kick is the factory alarm disarm wire. It's negative. It is in the same harness as the arm wire and the lock and unlock wires. I have a picture of it, but it is not the greatest picture because it is too close so you cant really tell where it is being taken. It looks like it is right by the e-brake release pedal, so if there is only one harness there and it has a Pink/White, Pink/Blue (arm), and Pink / YELLOW (Lock) and a Pink/Green (Unlock), then thats the one you need.

You should be able to disarm the factory alarm some other way for testing purposes. I thought unlocking the door with the key should disarm. Try plugging the fuse back in for the alarm and then roll the drivers window down and lock the doors and set the alarm if you can. Then wait a few minutes, reach in the window and unlock the door and open it. If the alarm goes off, then you know that it is arming. Next, follow the same procedure as before but instead of unlocking the door from the indide, see if unlocking the door with the key disarms the alarm. If it does and the the car still wont start, then the factory alarm is not the problem.

Are you familiar with the aftermarket alarm? Did you install it or did you take a look at it while replacing the column? If the factory alarm is the problem you will need to disarm it with the aftermarket alarm, unless you disable altogether.

OK here is another thought I had: Does the car have a remote starter installed? Or did it have one installed before? I know you said it has an aftermarket alarm, but if it also had a RS at one time, the installer may have taken the transponder out of the key and glued it to the steering column to permanently bypass the PATS. Well nevermind, I guess that would have been obvious to you though when replacing the columns because the old column would have the PATS unit around the key cylinder with a wire harness going to it. I was just thinking out loud.

Check fuses under the hood too.

I am not sure that the factory alarm is your entire problem though.

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J Rilla

Owner/Installer

The problem has to be in the factory alarm because the car worked fine before the column problems.I didn't install the aftermarket alarm but that works fine and it dosen't have a remote start.After I removed the lock cylinder from the original column and tried to start it,thats when the car wouldn't start.I guess trying to start it without the cylinder told the computor it was trying to be stolen.The problem now is I don't have the original lock cylinder for the key that is programmed for the car.The new column came with a lock cylinder and keys.The car won't start with the "new" key.The transponder is set for the old key and cylinder and I don't have the old lock cylinder.I do have the old key and can I get a key made with the profile of the new keys with the chip resistance of the old key.And also how would I deactivate the alarm using the pink and white wires you mention.

OK, I am confused, earlier you said the car did not have a chip in the key. Now you are saying you do have a transponder anti-theft device. First of all, the factory alarm is a completely sperate and different system than the PATS (which is the transponder or "Chip" as you called it in the key). The factory alarm just monitors the doors and sounds the horn when the doors are opened. The PATS immobilizer is a fuel cut off system that doersnt allow the vehicle to run if it does not see the proper key in the ignition.

So when you tried to start the car without the right key, it probably locked up. I am not sure what you could have done with the old cylinder, it seems wierd to get rid of that so quickly. You will need to take the car to the Dealer for sure to have them reprogram new keys for you. The old keys should still work but since you cant turn the new cylinder with them, it doesnt do much good. So the dealer will need to do this for you.   

So your only bet is to take it to Ford.

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J Rilla

Owner/Installer

I asked someone who knows about alarms and he told me it had a chip.When I first posted I wasn't sure.I was looking for a chip similiar to the way GM has it set up.When I went to the salvage yard to get the new column I dumped the old one after matching it up and not knowing I would have this problem I threw away the cylinder also.Now I have 2 sets of keys...one has the profile (the one I got with the salvage yard column)to fit the new column I have now and will allow the lock to turn and the other key is from the original column and has the right "chip" for the car.Now can I have a key made up at Ford that will have the correct profile to fit the cylinder in the column and have the right"chip" to work the transponder in the column.I have all the electrical stuff on the new column from the old one.Also how does the transponder read the key?Thanks for your help.

Also is there any way to bypass this setup.

Try switching the transponders of the old key and the new key. There is a little door on the but of the key head where you can access the transponder. If you are able to successfully swap them and the car still wont start, you will likely then need to take it to Ford becasue the computer would have erased the keys from its memory. I dont know enough about these systems to know if there is a way to snap the computer out of lock out mode.



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J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Thanks for the help you gave me .It waalot more than I knew about it.