Taurus remote starter: blower stays on

cpgoose:   Wow, at about 2:00AM I tried posting the following about my own problems with the heater blower not coming on in a 1995. My post didn't go through, but I'm including it in this reply. I'm curious as to what wires you're using, I know there are a few changes in wiring between the 2, but I don't believe there is much difference between 93 & 95.

I'm installing a Bulldog remote start (model rs1100i/rs1100ie/rs114) that my sister purchased from Sam's Club (Don't ask... if she had told me that she was buying a BD, I would've told her to get something else). Anyways, she already has it, and wants it in her 1995 Taurus (no factory security). I pretty much have everything set-up correctly, except for a few things:

1) Domelight: The BD manual says there's a DIP switch to alternate between (+) and (-) for the domelight. I cannot find a switch, and the domelight is not coming on when triggered by the keyless entry. The only location that I could get at was at the dimmer switch, and the color of the wire is a TAN or GREY wire (it's hard to say). I realize the diagram on this site says the door trigger wire is BLK/LT BL, but it's not easy to get at. Does the tap location make that much of a difference, or is the polarity just wrong?

2) Heater Blower Power: Again, the diagram says BL/GRN specifically for the Heat/AC, but that seems to be just supplying power to the radio. Sounds like BATT/ACCY to me. The YELLOW/GRY shuts off the ABS light on the dash, but still no blower power. I have the RED / LT GRN wired in as the primary IGN. I was getting frustrated at this point, and didn't probe any more wires, with hopes to hear good news here!

3) Finally, when connecting the main 12v supply to the unit, relays click in the brain, and relays (possibly starter solenoid?) are clicking under the hood, and possibly the fuel pump (It's really hard to decipher what and where these noises are from under a dash!). It's VERY VERY hard to tell if these are just energizing intially, or if they are locking on. I hit the wire, and you hear clicks from the brain and from under the hood, and that's it. No crank, no heat, and no smoke (that's a good thing!). Is this a normal occurance?

I realize Bulldog isn't the best of what's around, but for my sister, I figure she gets what she pays for, and as the good brother, I'm taking the liberty of agreeing to this task. IMHO, I'm partial to DEI, but for dealing with a Bulldog for the first time, it's pretty simple. I'd like to see some more features like anti-grind... and why not through in a siren and shock sensor to make a complete system?! Hopefully my issues are simple, and I'm just missing a few things.

Thanks for the help, in advance.

- Joe

Worcester, MA

Ignition wire
This wire supplies power to the vehicle's ignition system and fuel pump, it shows between 10 and 14 volts with the key in the RUN and CRANK positions of the key switch. Some vehicles have more than one ignition wire; all ignition wires should be connected when installing a remote starter. Use relays for connecting additional ignition wires. See our diagram titled ' ADDING RELAY FOR 2 ND IGNITION'.

Accessory wire
This wire supplies power to the vehicle's blower and heater/Ac controls. It shows between 11.5v and 14v with the key in the ACCESSORY and RUN positions of the key switch. Some vehicles have multiple accessory wires to control all the heater and a/c functions. If it is necessary to connect a second accessory wire, use a relay as described in our diagram titled ' ADDING RELAY FOR 2 ND ACCESSORY'.

Hope this helps.