module responds, but keyless entry doesn't

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=2535
Printed Date: May 12, 2025 at 1:52 PM

Topic: module responds, but keyless entry doesn't

Posted By: cpgoose
Subject: module responds, but keyless entry doesn't
Date Posted: August 05, 2002 at 7:32 PM

Ok, the keyless entry won't work anymore on my alarm. posted_image

(viper 550esp with 2 actuators and 2 relays for them).
I always hate questions like this, and now it's my turn:)

I only had the keyless entry hooked up, I never got to
installing the rest of the alarm yet. The keyless entry
was working, until I shorted the a/c fuse. I replaced
the fuse, and everything worked again. Then I went to
hook up the 4th channel on the alarm, but I disconnected
the (-) cable of the battery first (so I wouldn't blow
any more fuses). I made the 4th channel connections, and
when I put back the (-) cable, it gave quite a spark. I
realize (from earlier posts) this is normal, but it was
a little larger than normal. Anywho, the 4th channel
didn't work, but I just figured it wasn't hooked up right
and disconnected it...and then tried the keyless entry,
and that didn't work.

Long story short(er), I spent the rest of the night
trying to fix the keyless entry and couldn't get it.

Here's some specifics:
1. The module would make the clicking noise like it was trying to work.
2. I tested the module at the red wire, and it had 12v+
3. I tested the relays, and they had power and ground where needed
4. I tested the ground of the module, and that was fine
5. I tested the actuator wires, and both rested at ground
6. Both relays for the actuators were also responding
with clicks, but wouldn't move the locks

7. the parking lights would flash with lock/unlock
8. i then hooked up the sensor and siren, which both
worked fine.

AGH! any ideas? I checked ALLLLL fuses, under the dash
AND under the hood, and all were fine. What the heck
am I missing?

Any hints from your experience? Thanks!

Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: August 06, 2002 at 8:00 AM

Have you tried grounding and adding 12 volts to the actuators to see if you may have shorted out the actuators ? If you have and they move freely then I wouls test to see if the relays were shorted. Just because they click does not mean they work, just means that the arm is moving but if it's not making the contact you get no power tot he actuators. Check to see that the pin 30 of both relays is outputting what it's supposed to.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: August 06, 2002 at 8:25 AM

Thanks, I will do that and get back to the forum. I didn't try giving power/ground to the actuators, so I hope that helps. I'll be back...

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: August 06, 2002 at 8:33 AM

Famous last words posted_image ........ As a side note... remember to disconnect the actuator from the alarm module so you don't get a feedback signal when you test the actuators.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: August 06, 2002 at 10:54 AM

Ok, here's the skinny (not good, or at least I don't think it's good).

Went out and disconnected the actuator wires from the relay.
Hooked up a wire to the constant 12volt to use for testing.
I took one wire of the actuator and hit negative, and touched
the other side to my 12volt wire. Nothing happened.
As far as my electrical expertise goes, it should have moved, yes?

So, I tested the other 2 actuator wires for the passenger door, same thing.

So, I thought maybe something happened to those wires, so I took off the door.
Then I unplugged the wires (that I used to extend the 3" wires of the actuator)
and tested the two actuator wires again in the same manner. Nothing.

(not sure if this helps), but I also checked the continuity of the 2 wires
for each actuator, and got nothing either. (I'm not sure if that's right or not, though.)

Crap, did I fry BOTH actuators? How the heck do you do that? I thought I was
being all carefull by disconnecting the battery cable, and instead of frying a
cheap fuse, I fried 2 actuators?

Hopefully there's something else this could be, but I'm starting to doubt it,
unless I'm not thinking correctly on how an actuator works.

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: August 06, 2002 at 2:20 PM

Unfortunately your the proud owner of two dead actuators : (
Check to make sure that the relays that you have installed are in fact outputting the proper polarity and that you are grabbing a good source for ground as well as constant 12 volts. What type of system are you trying to install again ? Did you hook up the alarm system like this :

posted_image

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: August 06, 2002 at 6:43 PM

Yep, that's how I had it hooked up.
I can't believe I actually blew the actuators!
(Installing into a viper 550esp).

For the 4 power wires, I didn't have a fuse inline there,
would that have prevented the killing of the actuator?

Just to double check (for the testing),
I just had the actuator with the 2 wires coming out of it.
I connected ground to one sound and 12v to the other,
and it should have responded, but didn't. Ok, I guess that was right.

crap.

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: August 06, 2002 at 9:12 PM

sorry man.... you need new actuators. If you need some i have some here for a good price. Let me know and I'll see what I can do for $$$. Look at Page 28 of the Installer manual and wire it like that diagram and post your results after you get new actuators.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: August 12, 2002 at 10:12 AM

Well, I guess my biggest concern is prevention now. I'm afraid if I hook up two new actuators, I might get the same problem.

If I run all 4 power wires from the relays (85, 86, 87, and 87) to one of the 4 just mentioned (say 86), and then run that to one of the

empty slot on the fuse panel, will it be protected by the fuses (instead of killing my actuator?) The diagram says fused at 30 amps,

I don't think any of the fuse panel fuses are that large? Ideas?

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: August 12, 2002 at 3:09 PM

Use another power wire ( ignition harness ) and put in a blade fuse holder and use 15 or 20 amps instead. You can get the blade fuse holders for about $ 4.00 at any auto parts store.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: August 12, 2002 at 7:01 PM

I have a couple of the in-line type fuses (about 15 amps)
from trunk release kits...can I use these? The wire
is smaller (bigger gauged) than the relay's wires, so
is that ok? I wasn't sure if it was ok to go to a
smaller wire like that for something that's "power".

Thanks Jeff.

Posted By: mobiletoys2002
Date Posted: August 12, 2002 at 7:42 PM

hey cp goose im assuming this is the 550 i sold you if you need actuators i have how many do you need????

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: August 12, 2002 at 8:07 PM

That should be fine for the wire gauge that your using and the 15 amp will be sufficient as well. The current draw on this wire is so minimal that it won't even notice if you used a smaller gauage out from the relay to the door locks.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Posted By: cpgoose
Date Posted: August 13, 2002 at 6:25 AM

hey mobiletoys, thanks...but I already got my hands on two new ones...I couldn't wait posted_image ...I'm so impatient

Thanks again Jeff.