1996 Altima Keyless How to?

Hi,

I'm about to install a remote starter system with keyless system on a 1996 Nissan Altima, I want to know how hard is it and if I'm up for some nasty surprises on the keyless part or the starter part...., have anyone done it before...please help!  I would appreciate some help. Thank's in advance.

Damian

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"You are either good or not good"

Nissan

Altima

1996-1997

Remote Starter  Wiring Colors and Notes
Function		Vehicle  Color	Location
Start:		BLACK/ WHITE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
Ignition  #1:		BLACK/ RED	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #2:		BLACK/ PINK	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (HEAT/AC)
Ignition  #3:		N/A
Accessory:		WHITE/ BLUE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (RADIO)
Brake  Light:		RED / GREEN (+)	AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Tach  Signal:		BLUE/BLACK	AT ENGINE CONTROL MODULE *
Parking Lights:		RED / BLUE (+)	AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Headlights:		RED / YELLOW (DR) &	RED / BLUE (PS) (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH
OEM Alarm  Disarm:		GREEN/ YELLOW (-)	IN DRIVER KICK PANEL
OEM Alarm  Arm:		L GREEN/ RED (-)	AT OEM ALARM MODULE
Diesel  Glow Plug:
Clutch  Bypass Wire:
Notes:		* Engine Control Module Located In Front Of Center Console. ** This Vehicle Is Equipped With Two Start Wires. Both Must Be Powered In Order For Vehicle To Start When Engine Is Cold; See Note #235 - Nissan Starter Wires Diagram.

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Nissan

Altima

1996-1997

Alarm and Keyless  Entry Wiring Colors and Notes
Function		Vehicle  Color	Location
Constant  +12 Volts:		WHITE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter  Kill:		BLACK/ WHITE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
Ignition  +12 Volts:		BLACK/ RED	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome  Lights/Superv:		RED / WHITE (-)	AT ANY PIN SWITCH ***
OEM Horn:		GREEN / WHITE (-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Power  Lock:		GRAY/BLUE	AT DOOR LOCK CONTROL UNIT BEHIND
Power  Unlock:		GRAY/RED	DRIVER DASH, RIGHT OF FUSE BLOCK ****
Trunk  Release:		N/A
Alarm  Input Wire:		RED / WHITE (-)	AT ANY PIN SWITCH ***
Notes:		*** RED / WHITE (-) Wire Also Found In Rectangular 66 Pin Connector To Left Of Fuse Block. **** See Note #201 - Negaitve Pulse Door Lock Diagram.

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"Big" Mike
Double Take
Fremont, Ne
remember to check all your wires with a dmm not a test light!!
i take no responsibilty whatsoever for the vailidty of the info nor consequences thereof

Does this information for keyless entry pertain to the 98 altima as well?  It gives the same wire colors in Haynes that you gave for unlock and lock but I can't find those colors at the blue control module.  Once I find the right wires can I just hook the unit to those wires without any relay resistor etc..  Thanks

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newbie6

the locks in the 98 are gray for lock -purple for unlock at the smart control unit!! I think th econtrol unit is on the right side of the stering colum!! It also has 2 constants to the ignition one is white the other is WHITE/ red!

And the rest of those wire colors dont match with that year either starter- BLACK / YELLOW,ign -is BLACK/ red,second starter -is BLACK/ blue, accesory- BLACK/ pink, second accesory -WHITE/ blue parking lights are the same ! this should help u out a bit if you need more i can post it,,Good luck.

Ok, I'll check for those.  I've got constant 12v at Blue and White at the control module.  Can I take power directly from that, ground to chasis and tap directly into gray for lock and purple for unlock without any worries?

Thanks

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newbie6

what module to you mean???ground does go to chassis, constant is ok if that is contant to ignition switch in car you can use, But use both dont tie your 2 constants off the remote starter to just one.

yes you can tap directly into those door lock wires as long as the unit can supply a negative pulse!! which every unit usually can!! The RED / white door trigger wire will read the domelight delay!! If you dont care that is fine if you do then you can get the three individual door trigers at the smart entrance and diode isolate them. Tach wire can be found at the distributor in the engine bay color is WHITE/ black in a 6 pin plug! Brake wire is RED / green at the brake switch.factory disarm is GREEN/ YELLOW at the smart entrance unit and arm is lt GREEN/ red at the same unit these are negative triggers as well.

I'm putting in the remote start, just the keyless entry.  I don't care about only operating with the ignition off.  The module Iabout is the power door control module to the right of the steering column (its blue)  I don't need any relays for this system do I?

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newbie6

Sorry, not putting in the remote start.  I'll give it a try as suggested.

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newbie6

you dont need relays just tap into that is all!! the unit that is blue is the smart entrance unit and yes the door lock wires are there!! I would not get power there though! Just supply your unit with power from the thick white wire that runs to the ignition!!!

I'm getting nothing at purple and gray.  I'm grounded, powered up, the unit is clicking when the remote is hit, and I've alternated the units wires between terminals.  Any clues?

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newbie6

Did u test the wires i told u with a meter?? you need to make sure that those are the door lock wires!! They may need a stronger ground this can only be done after u absolutely know those are the door lock wires! Ok pull out the harnes u taped into try the door locks from the switch if they still work u are in the wrong harness!! Make sure the unit says smart entrance control unit!

next u can take the switch out of the drivers door and check the colors there see if you then can find tehm in the kick panel area!! These wires are at the control unit I have done this car many times it is there!!!!

ok those are not the right wires!! take them off there NOW dont use them !! you are looking for gray/blue for lock and grey/red for unlock these wires are at the door lock timer this is a black or green box that is right of the fuse box behind some silver module or above it!

ok those are not the wires for a 96 the post above is the correct wires for a 96 the wires i gave you are correct for a 98 if you have a 98 then they are at that smart entrance unit!

the smart entrance is a blue box looking thing to the right side of the column !!Is that where you are at ?? Listen make sure those wires are a ground when the key is turned in the doors and try testing from the switch in the car they should show a ground when the lock is pressed and a ground on the other wire whne unlock is pressed> If you have a meter this is easily acomplished if not you can cut one of the wires and see if u lose operation of door locks in one direction if so u have the rigght wires. From there you can take a wire splice into it and touch the other end to chassis of car the doors should lock or unlock. If this works then you need 2 relays to supply a strong ground to these wires!!

Thanks for all your help.  I put the module back on the harness and drew power from the WHITE/ blue constant 12v mentioned earlier and plugged the lock unlock wires from the unit into the gray and pink.  I did this all where the wires come out of the brake module.  I got the lock to react but only to unlock not to lock.  Then I switched them around. I'm not sure if it was this or if my power wire shorted but I blew the module!!  What a dumbass move huh!!  I pulled the module apart and and soldered the bridge that blew (I was lucky that I found it) and got it to work again.  I'll take a look at it again later and follow all your advise.  YOU ARE AN AWESOME source of info. Thanks for all your help and I'll repost when I go through it. 

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newbie6

Listen you said in your post grey and pink I NEVER SAID PINK I SAID PURPLE!!DID U CONNECT TO A PINK WIRE?Did u blow the alarm or the cars smart entrance?? Also u say brake module why are u there?? YOU would be better off supling constant 12 volts from the ignition harness, and not using that smart entrance to power your unit!!! It Is a thick white wire that i would use to supply the keyless entry power, never the smart entrance control unit wire! The white wire is located in the harness that comes from the back of the ignition switch this will supply a strong 12 volts at all times!

Sorry, I meant purple.  I blew the "smart entrance" or power door module as I'm calling it.  I'm kinda tired so I'm typing the wrong stuff..  Didn't mean to say brake module.  I'll make sure I pull off at the white constant power at the ignition. When I first hooked it up I pulled the harness out of the module and tapped into the purple and grey into the harness to see if it would work before I cut any wires.  Then I put the harness back into the module and tapped into the wires from the back where the go into the module. I got a response when I hit the keyless switch but only unlock no lock.  The module is fine now.  I'll tap into the purple and grey with the power of the white ignition and see if I can get it to work.  Wonder why it would work when I bypassed the module?  The alarm unit was powered and should have sent the negative pulse to the locks  to switch them.   

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newbie6

hey bro you need to invest in a decent meter before messing with wires!! Bad things can and usually will happen!! No wiring diagram can be 100 percent so dont always trust them they are reference material only just as me or anyone else on this forumn. It seems to me that whatever wire you tapped for your constant cannot handle that load you placed on it(that is why i said dont go there instead go to the ignition wires them self).

Also you have unpluged the wiring harness from the door lock control unit-- The door locks should not have worked at all!!! Inside that module are the relays that control the factory locks as well as other convienece features to your car, when it is upluged the doo rlocks should not work at all because the relays never get triggered (unless you where in the wrong harness of course) When i told you to cut one of the suspect wires it was only to verify that you had the correct wire assuming you had no meter there is no better way to do it! But i meant for you to keep the harness pluged in while it was cut to see if you lost operation of lock or unlock!

I am 98 percent sure that the colors provided are correct but who knows there may be more wires of the same color so you need to test them first to verify.

The wire colors provided to you where negative pulse taht means tehy need negative pulse to operate you dont want to send tehm a positive or you may screw things up.

It is also posible that you may need to add a relay for the locks to operate(although i dought this)the relay would boost the ground signal to operate the locks.

Best recomdation is buy a cheap dmm(digital multimeter) then finish the job please dont play with wires without one and dont use test light (thats a whole other story)

I wish you the best luck in getting your locks working and i hope you did not damage the unit to bad

I've got a meter.  Thats how I found the constant 12v.  I'm sure that the colors you gave me are right.  Like I said before, I got some response when I tapped to them so I'll hook it up with the correct color to color.  I was lucky to not have screwed the module up for good.  Everything is working like it should after I soldered the blown bridge. I've got all my locks working with the door switches.  That makes sense about the enternal relays.  I thought they would be in the circuit somewhere else, not in the control module.  Anyway, I'll get to it tommorrow.  Thanks for being so helpful and putting up with my stupidity

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newbie6

I must say this is the easiest car ever to install a remote start, thank you all guys

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"You are either good or not good"