Mazda Protege door lock options
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=26320
Printed Date: July 14, 2025 at 2:15 PM
Topic: Mazda Protege door lock options
Posted By: Toru
Subject: Mazda Protege door lock options
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 12:24 AM
Replies:
Posted By: douggie
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 2:03 AM
Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 6:07 AM
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 11:36 AM
Thanks! 
Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 9:05 PM
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 13, 2004 at 5:23 PM
Posted By: tongaray
Date Posted: February 14, 2004 at 12:41 AM
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 14, 2004 at 12:51 AM
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 16, 2004 at 9:13 AM
Posted By: douggie
Date Posted: February 16, 2004 at 10:45 AM
Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 16, 2004 at 12:41 PM
I am using the two-stage unlock feature of this unit. When I press the unlock button, ONLY the driver's door unlocks, when I press it again within 2 seconds then all doors unlock.
There is a "passenger unlock" wire that I have driving the door locks through the single wire control. I cut the unlock wire going to the driver's door and spliced the keyless entry unit in. It looks like a 5-wire hookup - unlock wire is normally connected and when you press the unlock it breaks the connection and connects the door motor unlock wire to +12V. This is all done inside the unit though, no external relay for it.
I am already using the trunk pop - that was the whole reason for replace the old RKE.
There are a few things still to do on this install:
1) Starter kill - just didn't get around to it. The diagram shows that the kill is active, i.e. the starter is only cut while the unit it "armed". Wouldn't it be better to have the kill be passive, i.e. the starter is always cut unless the unit is "disarmed"? This should mean that if someone broke in and disconnected the unit the starter would still be cut?
2) Horn honk - probably not worth it, since I would not have it chirp on lock/unlock anyway, only for panic mode.
3) Adjust the output pulse on the 3rd channel output. This is the trunk pop, and it seems to pulse negative for 2-3 seconds - much longer than necessary. I am thinking that all I need to do is hookup the RC timer to the existing relay (shown here) to reduce that down to 1/2 second as it does not seem to be programmble in the unit.
4) Lastly, with ignition controlled locks, ALL doors lock on ignition on, but ONLY the driver's door unlocks on ignition off. I am thinking I may want ALL doors to unlock on ignition off (for the convenience of the passengers). Since the unit does not seem to support this by programming, I may add yet another relay to unlock the passenger doors on ignition off as well.
Whew, still plenty to play around with.
On top of all that, I am trying to do a clean install, soldering and taping my connections, wrapping the harness like the factory ones and securing things in place so that I don't have a rat's nest or rattles.
There is a "passenger unlock" wire that I have driving the door locks through the single wire control. I cut the unlock wire going to the driver's door and spliced the keyless entry unit in. It looks like a 5-wire hookup - unlock wire is normally connected and when you press the unlock it breaks the connection and connects the door motor unlock wire to +12V. This is all done inside the unit though, no external relay for it.
I am already using the trunk pop - that was the whole reason for replace the old RKE.
There are a few things still to do on this install:
1) Starter kill - just didn't get around to it. The diagram shows that the kill is active, i.e. the starter is only cut while the unit it "armed". Wouldn't it be better to have the kill be passive, i.e. the starter is always cut unless the unit is "disarmed"? This should mean that if someone broke in and disconnected the unit the starter would still be cut?
2) Horn honk - probably not worth it, since I would not have it chirp on lock/unlock anyway, only for panic mode.
3) Adjust the output pulse on the 3rd channel output. This is the trunk pop, and it seems to pulse negative for 2-3 seconds - much longer than necessary. I am thinking that all I need to do is hookup the RC timer to the existing relay (shown here) to reduce that down to 1/2 second as it does not seem to be programmble in the unit.
4) Lastly, with ignition controlled locks, ALL doors lock on ignition on, but ONLY the driver's door unlocks on ignition off. I am thinking I may want ALL doors to unlock on ignition off (for the convenience of the passengers). Since the unit does not seem to support this by programming, I may add yet another relay to unlock the passenger doors on ignition off as well.
Whew, still plenty to play around with.
On top of all that, I am trying to do a clean install, soldering and taping my connections, wrapping the harness like the factory ones and securing things in place so that I don't have a rat's nest or rattles.