2003 Silverado SS door triggers
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=26351
Printed Date: May 28, 2024 at 9:20 PM
Topic: 2003 Silverado SS door triggers
Posted By: edessa
Subject: 2003 Silverado SS door triggers
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 3:16 PM
<> I have a 2003 Silveradoo SS extended cab and I have been reading a lot about the 2003 Silverado door triggers and the wiring colors for them. What I found out is that the trucks are under two types. The base model (standard cab) and the four door (true four door / not extended cabs in my book). I have not found anywhere anything about the extended cab Silverado specifically. Do the extended cab 2003 Silverados rear doors (the rear two doors open backwards) have any door triggers in them? If they do, can someone tell me where they are physically located and what color wires they would have? And one last thing, where are the door triggers physically located for the driver and pass doors. I need to know for sure because the professional installer (so he calls him self) is trying to tell me that he can not get the Clifford Matrix RSX 3.5, with 555L and 456G modules, wired in a way to give the door open indication on the remote when you arm the alarm and have one or more doors open. I told him to use the wires from the door triggers and use diodes to keep them separate. He is trying to tell me that he can only get the signal from the dome light. Thanks in advance, Edessa.
Replies:
Posted By: derek123
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 3:35 PM
you should find the doorpins at the bcm. To see if the rear doors have pins, open one and if the dome light turns on , then they are pinned. If you have to open the front door first to open the rears, then you just need to connect to the front door pins.
Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 3:40 PM
Hi edessa,
Your professional installer (or so he calls himself) is right! The door pin switch wires are in the individual front doors and send this info via a class 2 data line to the BCM. To get door trigger wires, he'd have to go into the doors (about one hour work if you want to pay the extra) but it goes contrary to the idea of using a 456G data module!
The domelight wire inside the vehicle is a positive signal which feeds the domelight. If he connects to this, you'll get a "door open" message on your transmitter everytime the remote starter times out. Not good.
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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 10:08 PM
The door ajar wires are grey/black for the driver's door and BLACK/ white for the passenger's door. There are no wires or switches for the the rear doors in an extended cab model. You can't open those doors unless the front ones are opened first. If the truck is a crew cab (four doors each with it's own exterior handle) then there are doorpin wires for those at the BCM under the steering column. The front door ajar wires are found at their respective door modules inside the doors. The door panels come off in less than 5 minutes. The wires don't come out of the door, but are changed into data by the door modules and then that signal is sent to the BCM. Be very careful with using data modules that claim to read the front doors open data signal. Most don't work and a lot of GM vehicles don't trigger the dome lights to come on unless the light sensor in the vehicle detects low ambient light conditions. The best way is to run wires into both front doors and diode isolate them.
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sparky
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 10:15 PM
You don't need to worry about the rear door triggers, since it is impossible to open those doors without opening the front doors first.
The front door trigger wires are as follows:
grey/black (L)
BLACK/ white (R)
The installer could go into each door and use those wires, but it will probably take over an hour to do it. I would charge you extra.
The 456G doorlock module has an input for the door trigger on it. It then has an output that connects to the alarms door trigger input. When the remote start times out (after the programmed time or if you shut it off by remote), the truck turns the domelight on for a few seconds. The 456G automatically disconnects the door trigger input to the alarm when the remote start times out to prevent the alarm from being triggered. Using the 456G for the door trigger makes the installers life much easier.
I'm not 100% positive on the following, but I think I'm right. When you exit the truck and close all the doors the domelight stays on. When you hit lock on the remote, the domelight shuts off. Alarm is happy because it sees the door closed. If a door is open, your remote will beep at you that the door is open.
Lets say your unloading things from your truck and you have the doors open. Your running back and forth from the house taking a few minutes. The truck automatically shuts off the domelight to prevent the battery from draining. Now is when things get weird. If you have passive arming turned on, the alarm will passive arm since it sees the door open, which is probably not what you want. Other possibility is you grab the last thing in your truck, and close the door as you walk away. You hit lock on the remote and go in your house. Only problem is you didn't close the door all the way. The remote never notifies you the door is open, since the domelight has been off for a few minutes now.
Minor issue....yes. If it was my truck, I would go in each door for the door triggers. For a customer, I'd probably go to the domelight unless they want to pay me for the extra hour+ to go in each door.
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: February 12, 2004 at 10:16 PM
sparkie, you beat me to it while I was typing.
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: February 13, 2004 at 10:10 AM
Hey jworm! The module you mention. Does the domelight input go to the actual dome light bulb wire? If it does then the module won't work if the dome light overide switch is used or if the dome lights aren't enabled by the ambient light sensor as I mentioned exists in some GM vehicles. Am I correct. I am curious to know.
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sparky
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: February 14, 2004 at 3:58 PM
i've got the same system and if you dont go inside the doors then you'll never get the system to show open door on the remote using the 456G module...also as sparkie mentioned if you forget and leave dome light override on, it shuts down that input... i went inside the doors but most installers wont unless you're willing to pay extra to have them do so....
Posted By: birdslam
Date Posted: February 20, 2004 at 5:38 PM
How hard is it to get these door panels off? On my 96 it just had those plastic plugs so you can just start prying on the panel and it comes off. I don't want to wreck the door panel on a new vehicle so was wondering how to get them off. Thanks!!
Posted By: speakerman
Date Posted: February 22, 2004 at 12:31 AM
Birdslam yes you take out all the screws and pry on the clips. They make a really bad noise when you pull on them but you are not hurting anything.
Posted By: birdslam
Date Posted: February 28, 2004 at 11:52 AM
Are you sure that works the same on a 2003??? There are 2 screws that I could find. I removed those and then pryed up underneath to take a peak and don't see any of the old style plastic door clips. On the bottom there seems to be 2 places holding the panel on. These are big white plastic pieces that look like the ones that slide down into a slot. Long story short is it looks like the panel should slide upwards to get it off instead of outwards like the older silverados. Problem is something is still holding it in place. Does anyone know if there is more than 2 screws? I am almost certain the plastic will break if I pull any harder.
Posted By: JMaxx93
Date Posted: February 28, 2004 at 12:06 PM
yes i pretty sure there is a screw behind the door reflector/light so try that first. and yes it does slide up. also the main harness on the window controlls is different. you'll have to press in the center of the harness with a precision flat head or something comprable and pull the sliding retainer back and the plug will work itself out.
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Posted By: birdslam
Date Posted: February 28, 2004 at 12:15 PM
Thanks for the info... How do you get the reflector light off to get to that screw? Can I just pry?
Posted By: JMaxx93
Date Posted: February 28, 2004 at 12:19 PM
Posted By: JMaxx93
Date Posted: February 28, 2004 at 12:20 PM
carefully like i said i believe this is where your last screw is. use your "installer fee" :)
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Posted By: birdslam
Date Posted: February 28, 2004 at 12:29 PM
I really screwed up now. I was trying to get the harnass off the window control and now the windows don't roll up or down and the unlock button doesn't work. I still didn't get that piece of either so I can even work on it. Something is holding it in the front. The back had a retaining clip but I can't see what is in the front. How do you get this piece off? Still can't get the door to budge either.
Posted By: birdslam
Date Posted: February 28, 2004 at 2:39 PM
OK, here is what you have to do to get the door panels off from an 03 Silverado. Remove the manual lock switch-- Just pry and it will pop off.
Remove the screw that is behind this switch and the other two screws that can be seen on the door panel. Remove trim piece around door handle and then slide the door panel up. It comes off. You then need to unhook the wires from the window control module and THERE IS A SCREW ON THE INSIDE of the door panel that needs to be removed before this module can be popped out of the door panel. Wow! Now I can hook up to the door trigger wires.
Thanks everyone and I hope this helps someone else out in the future....
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