Passlock problem with 97 Sunfire

Hi.  New to the forum, found it through a google search, I didn't now places like these existed.  I'm taking electronics engineering (technologist, 2nd year) and think I'll be spending alot of time here lol. 

My question is, I tripped the Passlock system on my 97 Sunfire (by mistakenly pulling out the alarm fuse when trying to install a remote car starter) and now can't get my car to start.  I've tried disconnecting the battery and leaving the key in the 'run' and 'forward accesory' position for 20+ minutes, but everytime I turn the key to the 'crank' position, the car starts, the idiot light 'theft' starts flashing, and the car stalls after 2 seconds.  I've disconnected the remote starter completely but still get the alarm and stalling.  I found a permanent 1 relay Passlock disable schematic, but don't get any resistance when checking the key side of the cut yellow wire to the middle black wire (actually infinite resistance) Now I read somewhere that you have to measure the resistance with the starter disconnected and the key in the crank position? (contrary to the instructions I found off the net).  I'm at a complete loss and haven't been able get any help from the dealers at all (big surprise lol).  I would appreciate any help anybody can give me.  Thanks.

(I've included a schematic of the bypass I'm going by)

sparkie wrote:

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Try starting the car and let it stall. Don't turn the ignition key to the off position though. Let it remain in the run position until the security light on the dash stops flashing. After the light has gone out, turn the key off and try to start the car. If it fails to start, leave the key in the run position again as before until the light stops flashing. You may have to do this three times before the car will start. This should work unless there is a defect in the Passlock I system.

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I just went out and tried starting it this way (with everything set back to stock), fired the car, waited for it to stall, then left the key in run and for the alarm to stop flashing, then turned it off, and restarted and repeat 4 times and it still does the same thing.  It did flood after the 2nd try so I had to wait a while in between but I left the key in the run positon the entire time.  The car always worked great before this so I really can't see how anything would be wrong with the system?

sparkie wrote:

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Try starting the car and let it stall. Don't turn the ignition key to the off position though. Let it remain in the run position until the security light on the dash stops flashing. After the light has gone out, turn the key off and try to start the car. If it fails to start, leave the key in the run position again as before until the light stops flashing. You may have to do this three times before the car will start. This should work unless there is a defect in the Passlock I system.

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thats pretty close, but you have to leave all of the doors shut and sit for 10 min with the key on ignition (all the way forward with out cranking).  if its been seriously tripped, which i think is like 3 times in a certain amount of time, you might have to take it to a dealership.  ive seen that happen on a PK3 grand prix or something.

i really dont know why someone wouldnt just buy a 555L.  it learns the resistance and sends it out for remote start, and it leaves the factory system functional for the key.  i hate that about as much as i hate people whos idea of a VATS bypass is cutting the wires and crimping the resistors across the car side ends and calling it done.  if that sh*t breaks the key and remote start wont do jack.  maybe they will be on the way to the hospital or something.  who knows, its always better to just do it right.

dont let the car fail start more than once in  row, and you wont engauge long tamper mode.

after every fail start, abort the R.S. attempt, wait ten seconds, and key start the car.

sroth140 wrote:

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sparkie wrote:

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Try starting the car and let it stall. Don't turn the ignition key to the off position though. Let it remain in the run position until the security light on the dash stops flashing. After the light has gone out, turn the key off and try to start the car. If it fails to start, leave the key in the run position again as before until the light stops flashing. You may have to do this three times before the car will start. This should work unless there is a defect in the Passlock I system.

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thats pretty close, but you have to leave all of the doors shut and sit for 10 min with the key on ignition (all the way forward with out cranking).  if its been seriously tripped, which i think is like 3 times in a certain amount of time, you might have to take it to a dealership.  ive seen that happen on a PK3 grand prix or something.

i really dont know why someone wouldnt just buy a 555L.  it learns the resistance and sends it out for remote start, and it leaves the factory system functional for the key.  i hate that about as much as i hate people whos idea of a VATS bypass is cutting the wires and crimping the resistors across the car side ends and calling it done.  if that sh*t breaks the key and remote start wont do jack.  maybe they will be on the way to the hospital or something.  who knows, its always better to just do it right.

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Thanks everybody for the help.  I tried it both ways.  Just now I disconnected the battery for a while and then turned the key into the run position for about 20 min (leaving the door closed the entire time).  As soon as I cranked it over it tripped the alarm again.  I tried leaving it for a while still in the run position and again it tripped the alarm while cranking.  Shouldn't resetting the computer reset and hard tamper alarm?

As for why I didn't install the other system, I kind of went into this blind and didn't know anything about the anti-theft device, if I would have known, I never would have bothered.  I got the remote starter for 1/2 price and thought it would be a cool little project.  My wife and I are both full time students and certainly can't afford spending a bunch of money on gadgets.  Right now I could care less about the remote start, I just need my car to run.

godsegoizhuge wrote:

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If now you want the car to function like it should normally then just reconnect the yellow wire that you cut for the passlock system. Once you do that the car will function like it should normally.

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I did that too (I actually used a pair of alligator clip leads but I don't think they add any resistance (maybe an ohm or two?)

godsegoizhuge wrote:

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i wouldn't use the clips becuz it'll play a part in the resistance value being thrown off. If you have to just get alil piece of wire strip the 2 ends and wire it in at the ends of the 2 yellow wires. That'll take care of the resistance problem. If you ever decide to go for the 555L down the line you can usually pick them up at best buy or circuit city for like $35 or so.

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I'll give that a shot.  Up until this week I didn't know anything about these bypass devices so I just assumed a device that could learn resistances would be pricey, I'm assuming you're talking American dollars but that's still not too bad.  I called a shop and he was reading me right out of the GM service manual what I should do, he said to clear a 'hard code' leave the key in 10 minutes until the anti-theft light stops flashing, only trouble is, mine stops flashing after about 10 seconds.  He figures my only option is to bring it in and get the codes read, does anybody have any experience with the units you can buy at Wal-Mart?  Are they worth anything?  I was thinking of giving it a shot and then bringing it back if it's useless (if they'll accept a return on it).

Ok, I've tried every suggestion here and so far no luck, but something I just found out is that if I turn the key to the forward 'acc' position insted of the furthest forward 'run' (right before crank) AFTER stalling the car, the alarm flashes indefinately.  If I leave the car in 'run' after it stalls, it quits flashing after about 5 - 10 seconds.  According to the GM service manual (and some of the posts here), if I tripped a hard tamper code, the anti theft warning should flash for at least 10 min before going solid.  I just got finished trying to wire up a Bulldog Security bypass module that I found for 30 bucks (Cdn) at Walmart when I noticed this, so tomorrow I'm going to try soldering all the wires I've cut (I accidentally cut the bulb test trying to tap into it) and leave the key in the 'acc' position after stalling it.  The weird thing is that the alarm only flashes in this key position after the car stalls.  Thanks again for everybodys input.

Just wanted to post a thanks to everybody that replied and offered their help.  Unfortunately the problem was the PCM and I had to get it flashed.  The only thing I can think that I did was mistakenly hooking up the alarm wire off the remote starter into the fuse slot for the alarm.  The shop that did it for me had no idea what caused it, and didn't know if my screwup was the cause but they suggested I disconnect my battery before trying again, contrary to what the instructions for my remote starter said.