OK, still another unknown and I want to get it figured out before I test the remote start function.
The alarm is a Lynx 2000 and has a sensor for either tach or alternator. The car is a 2003 Ford Focus ZX3. Every wiring diagram I have for a the focus says to go to the coil for the tach - but there is no coil in a distrubutor-less ignition, so what's that about?
If I decide to use the alternator sensor I'm assuming any +12v lead I have would work. Is it just sensing the rise in voltage when the vechicle is started? That seems too easy - why wouldn't they say to run it to +12v?
Is there an advantage of using Tach over Alternator? I'd like to use the tach if possible, but don't know how to get to it.
Thanks in advance - I know you guys/gals kick ass and can solve this problem that's keeping me from trying my remote start.
Later, Dave
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David Killion
BMW Fanatic!
the "alternator" method as you call it is called the coltage sense crank, and you rpogram the alarm how long you want the remote starter to crank and then the brain checks if the car is running by comparing the voltage before and after the start. use the tack, voltage sense is not very reliable. the tack wire be the odd colored wire at two fuel injector nosles. hope this helps.
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2005 Toyota Corolla S
1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!
I'll run down and take a look in a minute.
There isn't a tach lead inside the car? DAMN it's hard getting through that firewall!!!! Guess I should have thought about it first, eh? lol
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David Killion
BMW Fanatic!
Well, there are a lot of damn wires around the injectors ... but the 2000 Focus diagram says grab the BLACK/ Orage. Is that the wire I should be looking for? It's a 2003 though .... does anybody have the exact tach wire color for a 2003 Focus?
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David Killion
BMW Fanatic!
this is what info I have, but the best way to find is. Find two injectors, look at all the wires on them. now find ONE (and there only will be one) that is not the same color at both injectors. use that wire at either injector as the tack. hope this help, this is info that I have for a 2003 focus
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2005 Toyota Corolla S
1.8L VVT-i I-4
Always double check your wires with a DMM!!!
Do Not Use A Test Light!!!
MECP Certified Installer!
Best Buy 665 - IN IT TO WIN IT! TEAM MOBLE!
OK, the level of frustration is high here because I'm trying everything I'm hearing and nothing seems to add up. I've been under the hood with a meter and at the diagnostics tap with a meter. The way I understand it is that AC voltage should drop as RPM's rise. There is a BLACK/ Orange at the diagnostic tap that rises from 15mv at idle to about 20mv at about 2000 RPM. But that's the only wire that showed any difference during engine RPM changes.
In addition to that all the wires on the injectors are unique (BLACK/ White & GREEN / WHITE on one injector - the BLACK/ Orange & GREEN/ Orange on the next). Even more; tried to locate that BLACK/ green wire at the infamous coil, so I looked at all of the harnesses around the injectors Nothing with BLACK/ green. Tried a BLACK / YELLOW and it stayed at 100mv +/- 2mv at all ranges of RPMs.
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David Killion
BMW Fanatic!