99 Hyundai Elantra, Viper 690xv

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=27083
Printed Date: May 20, 2025 at 8:05 PM

Topic: 99 Hyundai Elantra, Viper 690xv

Posted By: 2manytoyz
Subject: 99 Hyundai Elantra, Viper 690xv
Date Posted: February 23, 2004 at 9:16 PM

I've been lurking here for a long time learning and now find myself in DEEP trouble with my very first install!

Car: 99 Hyundai Elantra (no frills model)

Alarm: Viper 690xv Responder

Problem: No siren chirp, no LED, no response to valet switch, no alarm.

I don't know what I've done wrong! Planned it all out, got the manufacturer's electrical diagrams, got the wiring diagrams from here, and verified all wires before connection with my DVM. Had the battery disconnected during install and soldered all connections and made neat, hidden looms. When done, I reconnected the battery and then plugged in the 2 fuses for the brain. I was expecting a siren chirp, but nothing happened. I verified that the ground was solid and where I tapped for +12V constant was good - both were. However, I couldn't get back at the brain to verify everything there (dark and cold here now), and I tucked it up high in the dash.

Guess I was too smart for myself thinking everything would work! :x

Anyway, I thought maybe the brain wasn't getting power or was dead, but then I noticed the LED inside the shock sensor responded when jiggled, and the brain is also operating the domelight supervision relay I wired. Any ideas? If it helps, I've connected the following:

red +12V constant to constant +12V in ignition switch harness

yellow +12V ignition, via the pre-wired starter kill relay, to +12V when ignition "on" in the ignition switch harness

black ground piggybacking a factory ground location

blue (-) instant trigger to hood pin (added) and factory trunk light switch

green (-) door trigger, wired with domelight supervision relay, and tapped into the cluster indicator for door open

red siren lead to brown wire from brain

black siren lead grounded with the brain ground at the factory ground location

white parking light flash to multi-function switch (-) with brain jumper moved to (-)

valet switch plugged into brain

LED plugged into brain

dipole antenna plugged into brain

shock sensor plugged into brain with green wire loop at the sensor end

At this point, the door lock harness is not connected. I installed a SPAL central locking kit, that uses their so-called M5 module to control the actuators. Still trying to figure out how to connect the door lock harness to the M5 because I understand it's basically a relay pack. I know if I back-probe the M5 harness connector with the purple wires with a ground, the actuators lock. Then if I do the same but to the terminal with the brown wires they unlock. Seems like all I would have to do is connect the green of the door lock harness to the purple at the M5 and then the blue to the brown and I should be good. Right? Do I need diodes? Which way would they face?

I would SINCERELY APPRECIATE any insight to solve this!

THANKS!!!!

Replies:

Posted By: 2manytoyz
Date Posted: February 24, 2004 at 8:21 AM

Anyone have any ideas???

Well, only had a couple of minutes this morning before needing to get ready for work, and it's snowing out too... The +12V constant, +12V ignition, and ground meter out fine at the brain. A buddy said that if my door trigger wire was weak it might keep the alarm from going into an armed state? Is that true? I do not think it's a bad connection as the domelight supervision works fine using this exact setup:

posted_image

The only difference is I crimped the green (-) door trigger from the alarm brain harness to pin 30 with a 12" or so lead. I then spliced the lead to the dash indicater for the doors. I did notice this morning that the when the doors are open, the indicator wire for the doors doesn't drop to a dead 0.0V. Instead it shows 0.9V. Could this be the problem?

Same buddy also said I should "reset" the alarm brain. How do I reset a DEI brain? Are there any tests to determine if this brand new brain is bad? I'm really worried now because I bought this unit from a shop that went bankrupt and was selling all their inventory and now they're gone!

Posted By: Big Dog
Date Posted: February 24, 2004 at 9:15 AM

Hi 2manytoyz,
Just for reference, when powered, DEI security systems return to their initial state before the brain was disconnected and seeing that the security system wasn't armed and disconnected at the factory, don't expect it to wail when powered up.
Let's start with the obvious. Power and ground.
With only the red wire and the black wire on the main connector wired and powered, the brain should respond to the remote but only if the antenna is also connected.
Still nada? Program the remote into the brain following the instructions in booklet.
Once programmed, you should at least hear relays clicking in the brain when you press lock/unlock.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Posted By: 2manytoyz
Date Posted: February 24, 2004 at 10:10 AM

Hey Big Dog! Thanks for the reply!

So, are you saying I should disconnect everything else from the brain, except the antenna, +12V constant, and ground and see what happens? Sort of process of elimination? If there's no response, does that mean the brain is bad?

Thanks for the help so far.