Viper Second Unlock Output?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=27305
Printed Date: July 15, 2025 at 8:01 AM

Topic: Viper Second Unlock Output?

Posted By: JMaxx93
Subject: Viper Second Unlock Output?
Date Posted: February 26, 2004 at 7:03 PM

its is for driver's door priority. i believe it is designed for cars that have dr. dor priority built into the factory keyless. i aplogize i have never actually used the second unlock output. my self.

Replies:

Posted By: daniel2002p
Date Posted: February 26, 2004 at 7:52 PM

you can also five wire your drivers door actuator and it whould work.

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Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 26, 2004 at 8:23 PM

You don't need factory priority unlock. I just did this in my car with a BW852 RKE.

First, I hooked up the second unlock wire to the door locks, so that when I pressed the button twice ALL doors unlock.

Then I cut the unlock wire heading to the driver's door and hooked it up to the primary unlock output on the RKE.

When I press once, only the driver's door unlocks. Twice, and ALL doors do (no harm in unlocking the driver's door twice).

Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: February 26, 2004 at 8:31 PM

A couple ways this can be done. Try this.
Lock doors.
Insert key into drivers door.
Turn key slowly to unlock. Does just the drivers door unlock?
If yes, does it electrically unlock or mechanically unlock?
Electrically - door unlocks quickly once the key gets to a certain point.
Mechanically - lock lever on door will slowly move to unlock as you turn the key.
If all the doors unlock at once....this method won't work.
If the drivers door unlocks electrically, you will need to find the lock/unlock wires that go to the drivers door key cylinder. The first pulse from the alarm (blue wire) will do the drivers door, the second pulse (light blue wire) will do the other doors.

The second way is probably easier.
You need to find the drivers door unlock motor wire. It will be blue in the drivers kick panel. Pin 11 of a 12 pin plug. Should be next to a blue/white wire. It will show +12v when the drivers door unlocks.

Cut that wire, and try the door lock switch on the door. The drivers door should not work anymore, but the other doors will still work. Put you meter on one side of the wire and hit unlock again. The side that shows +12v when you hit unlock is your switch side of the wire. The other side is the motor side.
Wire a relay as follows:
86 and 87 - 10 amp fused +12v wire
87a - switch side of above wire
30 - motor side of above wire
85 - blue unlock trigger from alarm

Then you would connect the light blue 2nd unlock output from the 560XV to the purple unlock wire at the front of fuse box, 22 pin plug
Notes: These wires will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door.

Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 26, 2004 at 9:44 PM

Toru]T wrote:

en I cut the unlock wire heading to the driver's door and hooked it up to the primary unlock output on the RKE.

That sounds like a just droped a single wire to the unlock wire in the driver's door. Infact, the RKE supports a configuration that is doing a five wire on the driver's door, so the unlock wire to the driver's door is cut and the RKE connects to both ends, keeping it connected normally, then breaking the connection and taking the driver's side to +12V on unlock.

Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 26, 2004 at 10:35 PM

Bing0] wrote:

QUOTE=Toru]
Toru]T wrote:

en I cut the unlock wire heading to the driver's door and hooked it up to the primary unlock output on the RKE.

That sounds like a just droped a single wire to the unlock wire in the driver's door. Infact, the RKE supports a configuration that is doing a five wire on the driver's door, so the unlock wire to the driver's door is cut and the RKE connects to both ends, keeping it connected normally, then breaking the connection and taking the driver's side to +12V on unlock.

Could you plese repeat that in English? posted_image

[/QUOTE]

The five wire config is this:

The door unlock wire to the driver door is cut in two, and attached to 87 and 87a (that's two). So with relay at rest, the connection is normal (as if it were not cut). The coil is connected to +12V on 86 (that's three) and the unlock output (-) on 85 (that's four). Finally, +12V is connected to 30 (that's five).

So, when the coil is energized by the alarm/RKE providing a ground, the 87/87a pair is opened, and the 87/30 pair is closed. Thus the unlock wire on the driver's door lock actuator is disconnected from the rest of the system and connected straight to +12V, which causes it to unlock.

Posted By: Toru
Date Posted: February 27, 2004 at 12:15 AM

If you already have priority locks, then tapping into the existing relay would be handy.

Have you asked DEI if they have the information for your make and model?

Posted By: chriswallace187
Date Posted: February 27, 2004 at 5:30 AM

DirectFax 1041 is just a general guide to doorlock types, it doesn't have specific vehicle info, so don't worry about that for now.

As has been discussed earlier - if the driver's door unlocks electrically from its own key cylinder, then you can get the wires from the cylinder there and hook them up as follows:
(-) lock output from alarm - wire on truck which shows ground when locking from the key cylinder

(-) unlock output from alarm, (-) second unlock output - wire on truck which shows ground when unlocking.

This will control priority unlock without the need for a relay.

If the driver's door unlocks mechanically from its key cylinder, you will need to hook up as following:

(-) lock output from alarm - lock wire on truck(this may not be located near the driver's door)

(-) 2nd unlock output - unlock wire on truck

(-) primary unlock output - terminal 85 on a relay

terminals 86, 87 on said relay - fused constant 12v+

terminal 87a on relay - switched side of cut driver's unlock motor lead (the wire going into the driver's door that shows 12v when unlocking).

terminal 30 on relay - motor side of cut driver's unlock motor lead.