93 s-10 blazer alarm install

i'll have to check on the light thing, but he used relays for the door locks...they worked the first day, but the just stopped and would send unlock signals at weird times

Yes, I am the one that installed the alarm.

The white parking light wire IS connected to the brown wire behind the dash (not RIGHT at the switch).  Like Brad mentioned, we installed it and everything worked great until the next day when the locks started doing weird things, and the parking lights would stay on after it was armed.  The remote start portion of the alarm still works great, and the siren still chirps, as the lights flash also.  I am wondering now if one wire might be lose somewhere.  I checked all the harnesses on the brain yesterday and all were properly connected, I also gave the brain a new ground but that didn't help.

Now, the alarm module itself has two larger gauge wires that are to be getting a constant +12.  If one of these wires had a poor connection, would that cause the aforementioned problems?  I will check that tomorrow, but right now I am thinking the brain is messed up.  Why would it work for a day, then stop?

Anyhelp is appreciated.
Thanks!
-Bob

If the blazer has two 12v constant power wires wich i believe it does,than what you would do is connect both red wires from the alarm brain to each of this constant power wires from the blazer.

You have the newest version of the CS-2011 with the (on board jumpers) is that correct?

If this is the case what you might want to do is reset the brain to factory settings,**option # 25** with the valet switch.

If problems keep persisting pm me.

Oh, on remote start, the alarm would hold the locks in the unlock position.  So you couldn't even push the door locks into the other position because of this.  I unplugged the three pin harness from the brain (for the door lock relays) until we figure out why it is freaking out.

-Bob

If the blazer has two 12v constant power wires wich i believe it does,than what you would do is connect both red wires from the alarm brain to each of this constant power wires from the blazer.
^^I did this.

You have the newest version of the CS-2011 with the (on board jumpers) is that correct?
^^Yes

If this is the case what you might want to do is reset the brain to factory settings,**option # 25** with the valet switch.
^^I will try that after I check the connections for the constant +12 volt.

Ok, first of all, the blazer's power lock system is reverse polarity, so that would really mess things up if I didn't use the relays.  Do you know what reverse polarity is?  I'd suggest that you look that up and read the rest of this thread before posting any more advice.

Also, the two red wires from the alarm brain are connected to the two red wires under the dash (which are both constant +12 volts).  If I was to run them "directly to the battery!" I would have to extend them a good 5-6 feet.  In the installation manual it says "DO NOT extend any of the heavier gage wires on the main harness."

As I mentioned earlier, everything worked for a day... EVERYTHING.  Now, random stuff is messing up.  I will check both of the +12 volt leads for good connections and reset the brain... after that the alarm is getting sent back for a replacement.  I apologize for sounding rude if I did, but don't yell at me when you don't know what you are talking about prdjr.

Thanks for the help everyone!
-Bob

I had a similar problem like this with another brand of alarm (autopage), and after many curse words and fist throwing, I sent the brain back to the factory for replacement.  I checked all the connections with a DMM, and the only thing I could find was a loose ground, so I redrilled a new hole and made a good ground.  Got the alarm back, and no more complaints. 

I agree with you.  Send the brain back, check all your connections again when you cool down before plugging in the new brain, and hopefully it will work.

Ah yes, this help is wonderful.  The wires were not 6 feet long.  Keep in mind this is the 8th remote start / alarm I have installed from Crimestopper so I know what wire goes where.  Earlier in the thread one mentioned the fact that 93 blazers have reverse polarity UNLESS they are positive trigger with keyless entry.  I said we HAD to use relays so that should have been enough.  2+2=4?  By the way, what does KMA mean?  I got one for you now: GFY!

For all of the other people trying to help me, we are testing the connections tonight and if it doesn't work, I have an RMA number from crimestopper so it should all work out.

-Bob

prdjr165 wrote:

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You should run your 2 power wires(red) from the unit directly to the battery!

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You should never! connect the brain's wire's to the batt, The only wire that goes to the batt is the Amplifier's POWER WIRE.

Alright... I tested all the connections today and they are all good.  Upon further investigation, the brain smells a bit burnt, and if you take off the plastic cover (covering the jumpers) you can see a bit of brown on the board.  It is being sent back and I will let you all know when the new one is in and working. 

Thanks again for all of the help!
-Bob

Alright, I got the alarm brain back and I am going to install it again within the next day or so.  I checked all the connections, and everything was fine.  My only question now is, the diagrams tell me to hook up the parking light wire to the headlight switch (the brown wire at the switch).  I didn't do this, BUT I tested a brown wire that showed +12 when the parking lights were on, and when jumped a +12 to this brown wire, the parking lights turn on.  I just want to make sure putting the alarm back in, it won't fry itself again and do the weird parking light stuff.  Should I re-run the wire to the switch or shouldn't my current connection be good?

One more thing, the alarm brain has a three wire lock harness.  One wire is +12volt all the time, and the other two are the lock / unlock wires.  In the owner's manual for the alarm it says to hook up the +12volt wire to one prong on each relay and then a fused +12 volt to one prong on each relay.  Would it be alright to just run the +12 off the lock harness from the brain to TWO prongs on each relay?  This is what I did before and it worked... but maybe that is what messed up the alarm brain?  The locks did work this way I should add.  BTW, the blazer has reverse polarity door locks so I DO need the two relays.

Thanks for all your help!
-Bob

I did what the owners manual said about the lock wires just for good measure.  The alarm is back installed and fully functioning... lets hope it lasts.  I thank all of you for the help.

-Bob